Dec's 1.8 16v Turbo project!

[blue95 0]

I ordered a pair of 45 deg + 180 deg mandrel bent stainless steel pipe sections in the US about a year back. Cant remember offhand where I got them from though. (Will need to dig through the pile of receipts to find out.)

 

I then spent ages, cutting and measuring each section to get a pipe that fit down through the narrow gap behind the block. Didn't think it was going to be possible at one stage, but I managed to squeeze it in!

 

 

Sweet - just what I needed to here as I am thinking about knocking up a downpipe too.

 

How much was the welding?

[Dec 1]

Welding didn't come cheap! It was a whole day job to make sure everything was lined up 100% and fitted together properly. Came out at £150 in total.

[blue95 0]

Welding didn't come cheap! It was a whole day job to make sure everything was lined up 100% and fitted together properly. Came out at £150 in total.

 

 

Not bad....then againI suppose you did alot of the work.

 

Had a quote for a manifold and downpipe £500, in 2 minds yet, whether to farm it out and pay the £500 or DIY. Is it worth the hassle of DIY?

[Dec 1]

Well it wasn't too much hassle to do myself. An angle grinder and a mini grinding disk on the dremel came in very handy. The pipe sections themselves were quite reasonably priced, with the current exchange rate too.

 

The main reason that I did it myself was because the car would have to be trailered up to a custom exhaust place otherwise. Would have been talking prob around £300-400 plus another couple of hundred to rent a van + trailer! Plus it's quite satisfying building something like that yourself, and you can be 100% sure it is the shape you want and the clearances are all ok!

 

how did it go at the weekend Dec ?

 

Well as usual it didn't go as well as I had orig planned. Waiting for some gaskets to show up for the downpipe, before I can really make a proper attempt at getting it running.

 

Got the MS hooked up to try attempt to get the base timing set. All went to plan and I set it up as per the instructions. Got the fuel system pressurised and there were no leaks to be seen. The car made some sort of noises like it was trying to start when I was turning it over, which is pretty good I guess, as there were quite a few sensors disconnected at the time. :clap:

 

But then I noticed it was leaking oil on the ground! :mad2: :mad2: :pale:

 

Turns out the gasket on the water/oil cooler was slightly pinched. So need to get another one fo them from GSF tomorrow morning. I'm away until monday, but need a couple of hours to go through all the wiring + sensors to re-connect everything, and then give it a proper attempt!

[blue95 0]

Hey dude any updates?

 

Was looking thru your thread again, how did you connect the water cooler lines to the cars cooling system? any pics.

[Dec 1]

ooops!.....just noticed you post! :lol:

 

Couldn't do too much starting attempts as I needed the gasket for the top of the oil coolerand didn't have enough free time. Anyway, just picked up a gasket from GSF for the sum of 80p this morning, along with some fresh gearbox oil. The gearbox has only covered 11k, but I figure it has been sitting around for a while, and I may as well change the oil while I have the front of the car in the air.

 

I've had the coolant and air temp sensors in the freezer/fridge etc, to get a good calibration band for them.

 

The turbo in there at the moment is oil only, so doesn't need any messing with the coolant system for a water feed.

 

Pity you are selling the TurboTechnics kit blue95, 16vt syncro would have been interesting! 8)

[Sc0rian 0]

one amazing project

[Dec 1]

This car is starting to try my patience! :mad2:

 

It started acting up, where the starter motor would only turn over after a couple of seconds with the key held in the 'crank' position. This gradually got worse, until it refused to turn over at all.

 

I checked the plug on the starter solenoid and it wasn't getting 12v with the key turned. Fine! I thought, new ignition switch required. Changed that (pain in the backside).....and it still made no difference!!!

 

Next place I looked was the immobilser/alarm. When I unpeeled the insulation tape around where it had been spliced into the original Corrado loom, I found out that it was a complete mess. Looks like the alarm was installed by a blind person with no hands! :roll:

 

So I removed the entire loom, and I've removed the immob+alarm and done a temp repair job on the standard loom. Re-installed it checked all the connections.....and it still wont turn over!! :censored: :censored:

 

I have continuity on the wire leading from the ignition switch and the solenoid on the starter, so that isn't the prob. So, my only other idea is the actual key lock mech itself?!?

 

The fuel pump primes + all the elecs come on when I turn the key to 'pos 2'.....but is it possible that the lock mech is not activating the ignition switch when turned to the 'crank' position? :scratch:

[dirtytorque 0]

Could it be the starter motor is dead?

Can you get someone to carefully check for 12 volts on the starter motor when you try to crank it with the key?

[Dec 1]

Starter is pretty new, so should be ok.

 

Prob is that with the key turned to the 'crank' position, it isn't getting 12v to the starter solenoid to even activate the starter motor itself!

[Dec 1]

Well it looks like it's definitely the actual lock mechanism itself (assuming I the brand new ignition switch doesn't have exactly the same potential 'fault' as the one I mistakenly removed) :brickwall:

 

I made a few custom heavy duty jumpers and bypassed the ignition switch + lock mech and got a perfect 12v at the starter solenoid when I connected the battery. Now to get a new lock + steering lock mech :roll:

[Toad 0]

I've got one/Stu has one I believe. I'll drill the lock barrel out for you so you can drop yours in.

[Dec 1]

:lol: to the rescue again! :tongue:

 

Without knowing what these things look like on the inside. Would it be the mech itself, or my key barrel that could/would be at fault?

 

Didn't realise that the mech was still good after having the barrel drilled out though. That's handy to know!

[Toad 0]

Would be worth driling your barrel out and try starting her with a screwdriver to see what happens. You just need a hole in a specific area of the housing. The haynes golf manual has a diagram or I have a picture. I'll fire it to you via email or msn.

[Dec 1]

Cheers for the info! :wink:

 

Drilled the ignition barrel out and the problem is indeed in the lock mech. There is a plastic 'L' shaped piece on the mech that rotates when the matching 'L' shaped bit on the ignition barrel is turned. The plastic bit on the mech itself is pretty worn and more C than L shaped. :roll:

 

Could get a voltage at the starter when I turned the mech with a flat head screwdriver, but I guess the key barrel cant make a good enough contact with the worn part.

[Toad 0]

Can you put a picture of the part up? I might have one I can send you...

[Dec 1]

Here are the offending items!

 

The L shaped bit at the end of the key barrel

 

 

And the part it mates into in the lock mech. It's the white plastic part in the centre. Actually looks better than it really is in the photo. I cant see how it could be removed from the mech itself though?

 

[Toad 0]

I'll try to remove the complete unit for you...

[Dec 1]

Cheers! :salute:

[mrbeige 0]

If it all goes wrong, I have one too :)

[Dec 1]

I don't like this talk of it all going wrong!! :lol: :tongue:

 

Good to know though Stu! I did look at your breaking thread, but I thought the lock mech was gone, as you just had the steering column advertised without it.

[Toad 0]

Might be better to take Stu's as I'll be mincing across Germay till next week.

 

Got it started yet?

[Dec 1]

Might be better to take Stu's as I'll be mincing across Germay till next week.

 

Got it started yet?

 

Will do! Was thinking you may have quite a lot to sort out before heading to Germany.

 

Got it turning over again with a bit of poking about with a screwdriver :camp:. It's not an ideal way to do things, and I don't think whatevers left of the mech will last too long that way though. Now to try and figure out why I'm only getting an ignition pulse every 5th trigger from the hall sender. :roll:

[dirtytorque 0]

. Now to try and figure out why I'm only getting an ignition pulse every 5th trigger from the hall sender. :roll:

 

MS waits x amount of ignition events b4 firing.

This is set in base ignition settings in MS2.

 

I have mine set to wait 4 pulses b4 firing so that MS can orient itself.

Is this what you mean?

[Dec 1]

I'm only working my way though the wiring, and getting the new MS unit (I decided to upgrade from the v3.0 to the v3.57) set-up tbh. But that sounds like what it could be! 8)

 

After going through the hall sender wiring and getting a brand new dizzy. I fitted a pull-up resistor across the hall sender signal and 12v wires, and was turning the dizzy by hand while watching for an ignition pulse on the MS board. It only flashed for every 5th hall sender window that passed the senser, and the fuel pump buzzed for a sec.

 

It was then that I tried to see what would happen when I turned it over at a reasonable speed on the starter motor.......then I got my nice little starter motor / ignition switch issue, that I have just figured out.

 

The MS is still only very basically set-up with just the major parameters set. I was basically just looking for the ignition pulse to start off with.