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Ronan

What kind of power should I expect?

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If you've seen my post in the wanted section, you'll know that I'm rebuilding my G60, to a 1.9. It's been getting slower and slower, and I know the previous owner cracked a piston, so I thought I'd just bite the bullet and throw a load of money at it, and rebuild it. I've been asked what kind of power I'm going to get out of it, and to be honest, I have no idea! Here's the spec, tell me what you think....

 

JE 82.5mm pistons (1850cc I think)

ARP Head Bolts

ARP Rod Bolts

Crank/fly balanced and possibly lightened

R1 Charger

Ported/polished head

Full s/s system

stainless 4 branch

Looking at a cam too, so probably a piper?

Also looking for a new inlet manifold...

SWG Twin inlet kit

Toothed belt kit/68mm pulley

FMIC Intercooler

 

What do you reckon?

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Haha, Walesy, your an idiot!

 

Thanks for the help guys, I can now let the guy who asked know that it will be somewhere between 161 and 245090303049503493049039405 bhp.

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Nah not found out what the problem is, so just biting the bullet really. I can pick up a bare block for 80 quid if need be, so I can use one of those instead of mine if mine is wrecked.

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around 210 to 225bhp would be my estimate... (unless the head's a superb one or a CNC jobbie)

 

Porting and polishing the throttle body will help too, and make sure your exhaust is good and free flowing... ;)

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Ahh yeah, I shall get the TB done as well, thanks Henny!

 

I've been offered a full Supersprint system as my current Milltek one is wrecked, it has a Supersprint manifold on it too - would this be a wise move?

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BeavisJem, yeah, I gained around 30bhp just from swapping from a JMR/Racepower flowed/ported standard-sized-valve head and standard cam to one of G-werks' CNC heads and it's associated custom Newman cam...

 

When you see the flow figures for the CNC head they're just silly in comparison to the standard head... 8)

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BeavisJem, yeah, I gained around 30bhp just from swapping from a JMR/Racepower flowed/ported standard-sized-valve head and standard cam to one of G-werks' CNC heads and it's associated custom Newman cam...

 

When you see the flow figures for the CNC head they're just silly in comparison to the standard head... 8)

 

 

standard size valves again or the over sized ones?

 

and what if you chuck a 2l stroker crank and longer rods at it at the same time what bhp can you expect then?

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I had oversized ones put into my CNC head... but the standard valved CNC head flows as near as dammit the same as a 16V head! 8)

 

2litre stroker crank and longer rods may give more power, but it depends on what the throw of the crank is and how much longer the rods are... I know of some 2 litre engines which make substantially less BHP and torque than my 1940 engine and are nasty to drive at high RPMs just because of what they've based the engine around... Longer throw also needs more machining to the block/oil squirters and could push the cost up substantially...

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whats the best way to get more low down torque as my car is just dead under 3k and just a bit better over that and its showing 1580 on the mfa thingy? the bottom end is rattling at around 2.5k so i'am look at a full rebuild anyway?

ps sorry for the hijack

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I managed 242bhp with my spec, and thats with standard bottom end...

ok with a 65mm pulley but... :)

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I would have thought it would make at LEAST 225BHP with that spec. I made 244.5BHP with the following spec on the standard bottom end.....and was running 68mm pulley then......

 

standard PG bottom end

lightened / balanced crank

ported / polished head with big valves

flowed / polished inlet manifold

ported and polished throttlebody

full s/s exhaust (no cat)

Schrick 268-276 degree asymmetrical cam

SNS stage 5 chip

68 mm pulley

Porsche 944 Turbo 3.5 Bar FPR

Bosch red-top injectors

FMIC with 2.5" alloy piping

 

Cheers and HTH

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I agree!

For better results a gearbox to match that power is a MUST! :)

The original ATB G60´s gearbox seems to be the better box to get if you don´t want to go for a gearbox rebuild service.

It´s final drive is much better for those kind of power / torque instead of the CBA.

I have tested both in my G60, you can really notice the huge difference! :)

The ATB final drive is very similar to the VR6 ones...

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No problems getting 250+ down through my modded ratio G60/VR6 hybrid box... The Quaife ATB Diff and Goodyear Eagle GSD3s handle it well... 8)

 

1st's a bit pointless to be honest though, I only tend to use it for hill starts normally unless I'm trying to prove a point from a set of traffic lights/junction... ;)

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