brakes

[greengti 0]

Hello

 

I have a Phase 1, 1.8 16v Corrado and the brakes are rubbish... I have been reading the info on this forum and considering that I want to keep the original wheels it looks like the best option is the 288mil set up from a MK3 / 4 golf Gti. Is this correct and is this set-up on all Mk 3 Gti’s?

 

If it is I assume that I have to change the front callipers, will this be a straight swap with the golf parts bolting right on to the Corrado Hub and connecting to the Corrado brake hoses?

 

I am sorry if I am going over old ground but I want to get it right.

 

Many thanks

 

Adam

[kongo127 0]

Maybe you should check your brake system before upgrading it...

The stock brakes from Corrados are very good in my opinion...

Have you replaced the brake fluid recently with some good stuff along with a nice bleeding?

Are you rear callipers sized?

Keep posting and welcome to the forum! :)

[Supercharged 2]

greengti, yeah I'd have to agree with Kongo and say to try and sort your existing ones out before upgrading if there is a problem - how do you define 'rubbish' and what your comparing to - ie brand new cars etc...

 

Have you driven another 16V corrado to compare? also do the brakes pull at all and when was the fluid last changed?

 

Upgrades - the easiest was to go is the G60 setup which is 280mm, you will need calipers, carriers, pads and discs...

 

The MK3 288mm setup is more difficult as the discs are only available in 5 stud so you would have to change alot more parts... the G60 setup should be a good upgrade and give decent enough brakes on a 16V

[greengti 0]

Hello

 

I am comparing the breaks to my Nissan 200sx T reg '99.....

 

The main problem I have with the Breaks on my Corrado is that the pedal is to long... Once the massive amount of travel is over with they are not too bad.

[Neil VR6 0]

The S14a has thicker 280mm discs with 4 pots and ABS so they're gonna be a bit better. They're also about 10 years more advanced in design that the VW ones ;-) My SX brakes are better than my 280mm G60 brakes but that's to be expected.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The main problem I have with the Breaks on my Corrado is that the pedal is to long... Once the massive amount of travel is over with they are not too bad.

 

Yep, the pedal is rubbish.....but the feel is OK, like you say, when the death zone of nothingness is over and done with.

 

It's taken the addition of AP Racing 4 pots & discs to my car to get brakes somewhere approaching what I would class as 'good'. The first cm of pedal travel is still cr@p though..... jump in a MK5 GTI and you head butt the screen with the same pedal pressure.....but unlike the MK5, the AP racings rip holes in the tarmac if you stamp on them at 100+ mph.

 

The pedal we can sort by retrofitting one from a later VW, such as 97-98 Vento VR6, but you'll still be left with puny 256mm brake discs. So I'm afraid if you want SX brakes on your Corrado, you're going to have to uprate the whole lot....pedal, MC, disc and pad sizes, the lot..... and it isn't cheap......but worth it, WELL worth it ;-)

[Baz2004 0]

Id start with upgrading the rears to begin with a decent upgrade and do from there - might also be worth replacing the rear bias valve also I found this helped a lot with the recent replacement.

 

That said youll need to bleed them a few times to get a decent pedal. Give it a bleed then do the same a day or two later. Bring up the revvs a bit when bleeding also helps get good pressure when bleeding.

[Neil VR6 0]

I always found ultimate stopping power was fine in my G60 but you do get the dead pedal feeling, as though it's taking up slack somewhere in the first 80% of the pedal stroke. Still I didn't have blown VR pushing nearly a bar of boost ;)

[greengti 0]

'The pedal we can sort by retrofitting one from a later VW, such as 97-98 Vento VR6'

 

What is involved with doing the above? What sort of cost is involved??

 

Thanks for all the responses so far

.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Dunno yet as it's something on my 'to do' list. We have discovered on the VR at least that the fulcrum point of the pedal gives very little initial movement in the Master Cylinder, hence the dead feeling in the first cm or so..... the later pedals seem to give more leverage on the Master cylinder sooner, so don't have the excessive travel.

 

It might be tricky on your 16V as you'll need the VR6 servo and master cylinder aswell unfortunately.