blower not working

[cmoth 0]

HI

 

I have just fitted a new fuel pump relay which appears to have cured my hesitation problems but the blower will only work on Speed 4 now?

 

Whats does this mean? - Ive checked the fuse and thats fine - suggestions please!

 

Thanks

[lamwagon 0]

it will be the resitor mate.

[cmoth 0]

easy to fix or job for a mechanic? - Any idea how much the part is also? - Strange, as its been fine until tonight when I chnaged the fuel relay?

[nocrap 0]

Easy peasy job, thermal resistor from maplins.

Drop out the blower unit in the passenger footwell.

Unclup the pack from the side solder in the new resister.

Pay close attention to the contact points and the direction of the old one.

[jonny-5 0]

There's loads of old threads about it somewhere. i think i paid something like 25p for the resistor iirc

[nocrap 0]

Here's the guide on how to replace the fuse http://website.lineone.net/~quigger/heater.htm

[cmoth 0]

Great stuff, cheers guys, looks like a job for the w/e although as mine is 94 model, will definately check the last info before dismantling everything.

 

Col

[nocrap 0]

wont be a problem mine's a '95, they're all the same.

Really is a 10 min job as the fan just simply twists and drops out, then disconnect.

[Supercharged 2]

Maplin Part

 

RA19V

 

184c

 

57p

[Niges16V 0]

The thermal fuse normally blows cos the motor is drawing too much power, if that's the case then you need to fix that or it will keep blowing fuses or melt the motor. Mine also went this week and it was probobly due to the fan not being able to turn freely, think the bearings are drying up. Got it soaking in a bucket of oil as we speak!

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Can anyone explain why changing the fuel pump relay will cure a low rev hesitation/flatspot. The old relay was clearly not totally u/s. Colin (cmoth) drove with me in the passenger seat last Saturday and I must admit that from there the only hesitation I could detect, with my MAF temporarily fitted to his car, was a very slight reluctance initially to accelerate from closed throttle after gear changes. The engine seemed free to rev up to 6000 + rpm thereafter.

 

If it works, it works of course, but why?

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[cmoth 0]

Im also intrigued to know! - If I took you out in it now, you would not recognise it as the same car, I hope it stays like this. For the sake of £8, you might wanna try changing yours also. I have a replacement ECU one also but I have not fitted it yet as car is running very nice at the mo.

At least the MAF seems to be fine anyway, and the tickover is also very smooth again. - My current relay switch did have a loose terminal , so maybe that had something to do with the running?

[mattkh 0]

Hi

Can you tell us the number shown on the relay closest to the loose terminal?

[cmoth 0]

yep, its 30.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

According to Bentley, the fuel pump relay is in position 12 on the board (bottom row, extreme right).

 

Colin, it's definitetly worth a shot. Murray's I take it. I must get a season ticket.......

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[nocrap 0]

If all else fails fixing your blower http://url.the-corrado.net/eb14ac

[cmoth 0]

Roger - it is bottom right, should have number 167 on it if its the genuine one.

Let me know if you notice any perceivable difference.

[cmoth 0]

Update time - bought new resistor from maplins today for 71p and have just fitted it.

Thanks to your thorough instructions, it was easy until I got to the point of removing the old resistor, which took an age but its done now and working on all 4 speeds again.

 

Well that must have saved me 60 quid or so in labour, so Im very happy, thanks very much.

 

Regards

Col

[nocrap 0]

No problem.

I was a bit cowboy removing the old one, just cut it out and made sure there wern't any dodgy contacts then resoldirerd using roughtly the same path

 

Glad its fixed, and the CF has once again saved somone a good lump of money.

[Foggystorm 0]

just fixed my blower, twas easy

[Niges16V 0]

the old ones are 'welded' in so you need to cut them out! You have to be carefull soldering the new ones in as the heat can obviously blow the fuse.

 

I took mine out of the bucket of oil and it was still stiff, no play in the fan at all, so I smacked it with the hammer a few times and now it's freed up :cheers:

[Foggystorm 0]

if anyone is worried about the soldering, if they buy the fuse and send me their blower and pay postage both ways I will do it at work

[cmoth 0]

Time to reserect this post, my fan has only just started working on speed 4 again only. Assuming the resistor is ok, what else could it be please?

 

Thanks

[Foggystorm 0]

the contacts for the switch

[nocrap 0]

You've shorted out the resistor when soldering it on?? or the whole pack on the blower unit is shagged?? i've seen a couple of whole units on ebay recently