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Banana Man

Oh Bugger

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After a non eventful day down at santa pod best time being 14.7 secs down the quarter ( only got 3 runs???) driving home the car suddenly cut out after 120miles I had just got into the town I live in and the car just died on me had a look round the car couldn't really see much coz it was dark and then I found it my heart sank when I found that the cambelt was loose I knew exactly what it was,the bloody crankshaft bolt had sheared off the annoying thing is that had been out and bought a new crankshaft bolt on wednesday after hearing about Henny's troubles with the bolt shearing I thought to myself better to be safe than sorry and then this happens before I even got a chance to fit it but there we go sods law in it's full glory. I am going to fit the new bolt tomorrow before I pull the head off to see if it is salvagable before the big expenses start rolling in hopefully I haven't bent the valves and put holes in the pistons but we'll have to see!!! Bugger Bugger Bugger :mad:

 

 

I would advise all you G60 owners to go to your local dealership and replace this bolt it only costs a few quid and could save you all the expense that I am probably going to endure!!!!!!

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Holy cow Ant.. hope you haven't done any major damage to your motor!!

 

Combine that with your newly remodelled bonnet thanks to your alternator, you certainly aint having a lot of fun with your Corrado at the minute!! :(

 

Did you manage to get any of the vids off your mates btw?? :)

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Brian change it I would could save you a few quid in the long run will only take about half an hour could potentially save you a good grand

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good point. apparently its easy enought to change too aint it? how many miles is your engine on? im under 120K at the moment.

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Ant, before stripping the head off, you can pretty much tell if any valves have been hit and bent by following these steps...

 

1) remove plugs and insert a long screwdriver into each cylinder No. 1&2 so that you can guage the depth of the pistons in the bores.

2) with the car in gear, and the cambelt off, rock the car so that both pistons are at the same level in their cylinders. Make sure that none of the pistons go up past the other! Ideally you want to lower the upper piston to meet the lower one. IE Do not let any of the pistons reach TDC as you may end up bending more valves! It doesn't matter at this stage if you turn the engine backwards.

3) remove rocker cover

4) turn cam over by hand (use a spanner! :lol: ) and see if the tappets are all going all the way down and coming smoothly all the way back up again following the cam all the way on the lobes.

 

If there's any of them that look like they're not returning all the way back up properly, you've definately bent a valve.

 

If they all go up and down fully, then you may well have been lucky and not bent anything. After you get the sheared bolt out (good luck, this is why I'm rebuilding mine! :roll: ) put it all back together and do a compression test to finally confirm if anything got bent or not...

 

If you're changing the bolt, it's worth getting one from a MKI golf 1800 (DX engine code) which is a hex headed bolt, not a 12 sided one. This was the original 1800 bolt and WASN'T a stretch bolt. You'll need to thread lock it into place, and check it for torque every now and then, but you'll know that it'll never shear off again... :?

 

I hope that you've not bent anything and, as you know, I know how you feel... :( It's a real bummer...

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Cool thanks Henny I know exactly how ya felt mate when you had yours let go. I think VW realised there was a problem in this area as I have been told it has been modified and hardened might get one of those DX bolts anyways just to be safe if the valves are bent I might just as well go all out and pull the car off the road and do a 2ltr crossflow conversion as it wont cost much more than rebuilding the old engine!!

 

Brian my car had just hit 118.500 miles yesterday it should be easy enough to change and will save you a few bob in the long run if it does decide to shear.

 

I dont think I will have been lucky enough to not have bent a valve we'll just have to see

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89 Rallye on g60power is selling an engine without charger and ancilliaries. Might be worth a look if yours is totalled.

 

Gavin

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Jesus Ant - you have such bad luck with your car! :shock:

 

I take it you won't be going to no-rice on Wednesday then?

 

Cheers

Mark

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Hi Ant

Sorry to hear the bad news.Your not doing to well at the moment with your car.Have you still got the old g60 head around.

I think the pistons should be ok in your car as they are very tough.

Should be just a valve or too hopefully.

Cheers Jason

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Ant,

 

Sorry to hear the bad news,lets hope nothing else bad happens on the C.

Btw,what is the part number for the bolt?

 

Take it easy.

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Cheers guys for your support!! First off yes hopefully I will be going to no rice I will just bum a lift with someone else who is going

 

The part number for the new improved bolt is N903-208-02

 

Talking to a few vw mechanics earlier it's near on definate that valves would have been bent and as you say the pistons are quite strong but dont really care at all now as I have almost definately made up my mind that the car will be coming off the road to be stripped, roll caged, boarded, race seats, full respray ( again but properly this time) and a full engine re work ( probably 2ltr crossflow) needles to say it will be quite a few months before I can pay for all this so the car would be off the road for a considerable amount of time but it will be worth it. I want to do most of the work myself but there are a few elements that I am not happy with doing myself so will leave that to the pro's. I have now gotta find myself a cheap run around I'll probably start looking tomorow at cars seen a mk2 golf gti 8 valve white full years mot and tax at a a stupidly low price so will probably be a complete sh**er but worth a look anyway at £195at least the insurance can easily be tranfered over!!

 

I probably wont get roubnd to stripping the car till the weekend as it is getting dark too early to be able to do anything in the light but will keep every one posted on the progress I make looking forward to it actually it might have been a sh*ty thing to happen but at least it's given me the excuse to get round to doing it!

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I think the pistons should be ok in your car as they are very tough.

 

The problem tends to be that when the valve impacts onto the piston you can't always tell if there's any damage to the bottom end. If you think about it, to bend a valve with the piston you've exerted one hell of a force on a small surface area of the piston which it was never designed to take. I've seen pistons that looked perfect until you took 'em out and looked at the sides... The grooves for the piston rings had been nearly totally closed meaning that the piston rings were squashed... If it had been run then the cylinders would have been knackered almost instantly resulting in needing a new block... :shock:

 

I've gone through all of this myself recently, so I know how Ant feels and how brave a face he's putting on it... It sucks in a big way that a £2 bolt can cause £1000s of damage, especially when you've never touched the bolt! :roll:

 

Ant Looks like I may be waiting for your car to bed in at my first Pod session then! :lol: :roll: Sounds like you've got some interesting plans for the car and new engine... Just make sure that the details are correct with your new setup and we'll see what happens, if you're up for it, next year at the Pod... :D 8)

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The part number for the new improved bolt is N903-208-02

 

If that part number for all models with and without AC, cos i cant check cos i havn't got my CD here today.

 

thanks

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Scott, stick it in 5th and stand on the brakes while man 'B' backs the bolt off. Not as easy as it sounds in the manual!!!

 

Gavin

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The part number for the new improved bolt is N903-208-02

 

If that part number for all models with and without AC, cos i cant check cos i havn't got my CD here today.

 

thanks

 

It should be a standard bolt as the only thing it does is hold the Cam belt pulley/gear onto the crank. This pulley/gear is standard on all of the VW 8V (and possibly 16 and 20V engines), so I can't see why the bolt would be different... 8)

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I enquired about some new pullies the other day and they gave me a print out of the diagram. The bolt is the same regardless of A/C or not, but is specific for the PG engine, not the same as PL, KR engines (on the same diagram)

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N903 208 02 is a standard bolt and covers most 8v engines except on the 16v where the bolts are longer to allow for the larger sprocket.

When ever i change mine i always put a little thread lock on.

Jason

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I would also use thread lock on this bolt it makes the bl*ody thing harder to get out when it shears inside though :roll: got that to look forward to yet!!!

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