heater motor resistor? replacement

[latestarter2 0]

been told the reason i can only get the heater to owork on level 4 is the resistor??? has gone on the heater motor?..was told it was a simple job to do just involves removing the panel under the glove box..is that so and does anyone have a pic i can look at so i know what i'm supposely doing?...cheers

[nocrap 0]

Loads of posts on here about that, just do a search..........

 

But to help you out here's a guide http://website.lineone.net/~quigger/heater.htm

[latestarter2 0]

cheers mate appreciate that..looks like even newbies like me can do this...i hope..lol

[nocrap 0]

Yup easy peasy 10 min job, just make sure you pay close attention to which way round the resistor is as well as the path it takes as there are a couple of important earths on its tracks

[latestarter2 0]

aahh...that would suggest still ample opportunity for an easy peasy 10min job to turn into a bloody infuriating 4 hour grind hurling abuse at the car if past experience is anything to go by!!...lol

:lol:

[Guest]

One thing you need to watch is that it's quite easy to blow the heat fuse when soldering, Maplins sell a heat shunt, which is like an alloy spring-loaded, clip-on tweezer thing that diverts the heat, just clip it onto the fuse and it'll stop it blowing. Makes a fiddly job a load easier. Use a multimeter to check that you've not screwed up before and after the soldering.

 

Worked for me :-)

[nocrap 0]

Indeed that will make it easier, the fuse is rated up to about 190*c. mine was ok without the heat shunt and i did have the iron on it for a relitivly long time

[Guest]

I guess it depends a bit on how competent you are at soldering - mine is best described as shocking borderiing on criminally bad...

[nocrap 0]

some form of shunt might be needed then, somthing like nose pliers should be enough

[ReekieVR 0]

If you have had the controls off for any reason recently, check that you didnt put the wrong dials back. See here