300 Miles(amended) / Litre(of engine oil that is)

[dr_mat 0]

If you don't mind me being nosy, what *did* this peace of mind cost you, roughly?

[Corvr6 0]

http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/

That's the website link for anyone interested,they do more than just repairs.

 

It wouldn't be fair to disclose the total bill as some of the additional work was discussed after the initial price was given,but I think the the 3 main items are a reasonably set price,Head job,timing chains/tensioners,clutch. :wink:

 

Head job includes;

Valve guides/seals replaced

Valves reseated/replaced as nescessary(additional cost if replaced),

cam followers replaced,

gasket and reskim I presume.

Timing chains and tensioners replaced.

Clutch replaced.

I paid £1250 inc VAT for all that. :D

 

I also had aux belt tensioner,new plugs,Uprated front engine mount at additional cost.

 

Give them a ring for a price,each job will vary I suppose. 8)

[dr_mat 0]

I was just curious, to be honest. I'm not going to start fixing things that ain't broke. ;)

Mine doesn't use much oil at all (max line to min line takes over 5000 miles, at which point I get the oil changed!). Ahem! So far, at least...

[Corvr6 0]

What's on your clock?

The manual suggests 1000k(600 miles) / litre.If you are really getting 5000 miles / litre then I am amazed!

 

I have noticed an instant improvement in coolant and oil temperatures.

 

Before the work I was regularly hitting 110 degrees when cruising at 70mph.

Coolant was always constant at 80 ish.

Now the oil sits at 96 degrees when cruising at 70 mph.

The coolant is just off the needle at about 70 ish.

 

I will just have to wait and see how many miles /litre I get,but will update this post when the oil hits the min mark(1 litre).

[Corvr6 0]

Pics

[Corvr6 0]

more pics

[dr_mat 0]

Mine's got 115k miles on it. I'm pleasantly surprised myself..

Well, apart from the fact that it's a little down on power at the mo and possibly misfiring. I can smell a coil pack... :(

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The manual suggests 1000k(600 miles) / litre.If you are really getting 5000 miles / litre then I am amazed!

 

That's just the worst case scenario to stop people ringing into VW with complaints. They used to give a similar estimate for the Golf 16V, but my 120,000 miler used to use none over 10,000 miles, but another valver I had used a litre every 2000 miles. Guess which one was the quickest? Yep, the oil guzzling one.....

 

My VR is the same as Dr-mat's for oil consumption......but some do use a fair bit. Mine's on 87K and when I last looked at the upper tensioner, it was nothing like yours! Still got a fair bit to go.....

 

K

[Rpmayne 0]

I'm abit worried now, 1 and 6 means the rings? Mine started misfiring then constantly running rough. Turned out being the 6th spark coated in oil. Replaced it and its running ok although using 1litre/1000 miles and can very rarely be arsed to idle anymore. Starting to sound rattly now aswell from dropping the clutch to keep restarted it while rolling. I sort of expected abit better from a car which has done 85,000mls with a full service history, reliable VW's :shock:

[Guest]

good luck mate, mine likes to have a tipple of oil, but i'm not too concerned atm

[crazymarcel 0]

I Used Magnatec in my vr after i got it and it used loads, was smokeing sometimes but no power loss or not that i noticed.

 

When it was serviced, Oil change to syntra silver, doesent use half as much oil as it used too, obviously uses some oil still but not much or not too worry me also no smoke since. Sorry cant say how much oil over how many miles cause i cant remember.

 

But i would def try the syntra silver oil.

[corradovr6sc 0]

I know a lot of oil goes through the crankcase breather as vr's breathe heavily (I used to see smoke mainly when going down hills when backing off. Its not valve stems because the head is new and there is no smoke on acceleration or gearchange so bores are probably ok.

[Corvr6 0]

Before the work was carried on my motor,I was getting a constant 80 degrees coolant temp whilst cruising,now it is more like a constant 60 degrees rising to 70 if I run it hard.

 

Manual says thermostat opens 80'C closes 105'C.

 

The heater is working fine and is getting hot as usual.It will rise to 90 when idling and then the cooling fan keeps it there.

 

I know this cold weather helps to keep the motor cool and the use of G12+ helps as well,but isn't 60 degrees a bit too cold,bordering on the "thermostat stuck open"

kind of thinking. :?

I'm not knocking a cool running engine if its truly running this cool,any one with similar temps or had thermostat problems? :?:

 

 

 

Pulled this from the manual if any one is interested: 8)

Coolant fan switching temperatures;

 

Low speed ON: 92-97'C OFF: 84-91'C

 

High speed ON: 99-105'C OFF: 91-98'C

 

Coolant run-on switching temperatures;

 

ON: 101-107'C OFF: 94-100'C

[dr_mat 0]

Agreed - my VR rarely drops below an indicated 90 degrees on the open road. Maybe down to 85 when the first inrush of cool water comes from the rad, but that's it. If the 'stat opens at 80 my gauge is probably over-reading by about 10 degrees, or my stat is iffy.

But 60 is too low, I'd say. Does sound like the stat is stuck open (which is better than being stuck closed!)

[Corvr6 0]

Cheers dr, any one else?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Same as Matt's, 90 all day long in mine.

 

60 is too low, defo sounds like a stat failure or maybe there isn't a stat in the housing at all.

 

K

[Corvr6 0]

Agree, after starting from cold, I have checked the temperature of the upper and lower pipes and both are getting warm at the same time whilst the temp gauge is only at 60-70'C.

I guess it really does need a thermostat which is a shame as its just had new coolant fill. :(

 

I suppose it could be the original thermostat in which case a new one would be about due.

I've also got a noticeable missfire due to 2 arcing ignition leads(they are originals and probably should have been replaced long ago) and a (edit)cv boot seal (cable ties :roll: ) has come loose and has a nick in it :mad: (edit) and dumped its grease all over one of my wheels/brakes.

 

Its not coincidence that these additional maintenance tasks should just appear after a large amount of work that is previously undertaken,I realise that nothing is black and white when it comes to maintenance and this is just the "fine tuning" stage. :)

 

May all our "fine tuning" stages come to an end, one day! :lol:

[Henny 0]

May all our "fine tuning" stages come to an end, one day! :lol:

 

Amen to that! :roll: :wink: :lol: 8) I just wanna get into my car and DRIVE it... 8)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

May all our "fine tuning" stages come to an end, one day! :lol:

 

By which time we'll have tired of the car and moved onto something else!

 

K

[vr6storm 0]

May all our "fine tuning" stages come to an end, one day! :lol:

 

By which time we'll have tired of the car and moved onto something else!

 

K

 

 

Blasphemer!!!!! :twisted: :lol: :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Moved onto another Corrado I meant, LOL!

 

K

[Henny 0]

Good recovery! :wink: :lol:

[Corvr6 0]

To refresh your memories I have just had this work done; :lol:

 

Valve guides/seals replaced

Valves reseated/replaced as nescessary,

cam followers replaced,

gasket and reskim I presume.

Timing chains and tensioners replaced.

Clutch replaced

 

and noticed this problem; :?

 

After starting from cold, I have checked the temperature of the upper and lower pipes and both are getting warm at the same time whilst the temp gauge is only at 60-70'C.

The heater is working fine and is getting hot as usual.It will rise to 90 when idling and then the cooling fan keeps it there.Mpg = 20ish.

 

which suggests I do this; 8)

 

Replace Thermostat.

 

and noticed this problem;

 

Now the coolant temp is sat at 92'C but the oil still sits at 110-112'C when cruising at 60 mph.If I open her up the oil temp just goes up even more.Mpg=29

 

When the thermostat was stuck open the oil temp would keep below 100'C but the mpg was crap due to the coolant temp I presume.

 

Can anyone suggest a reason for the high oil temps? :mad:

[dr_mat 0]

110-112 degrees on the oil is not too bad. It sounds a little high for a 60mph cruise, but it's not unusual, IMHO. I know there's people on here that will advocate extra oil coolers, but unless you're seeing over 125 degrees on a regular basis I don't think that's really justified.

The oil temp is supposed to be over 100 degrees to ensure dissolved water boils out of the oil. Mayo under the fuel cap? Could be too many short journeys + cold, damp starts - you never get the oil hot enough it'll never go away.

[Corvr6 0]

Cheers dr,I have just finished reading some of the posts on the forum regarding oil temps and agree is not too bad based on the consensus.

My front grille is of the later variety with closed slots,guess what I will be doing this weekend... :evil:

I will be leaning towards the idea of an oil cooler as the summer draws nearer me thinks. 8)