300 Miles(amended) / Litre(of engine oil that is)

[dr_mat 0]

I've heard that opening out the grille makes no difference at all, actually..

If you've money to burn, slap in an oil cooler, but make sure you don't over-cool the engine. These engines are designed to be run hot, the oil is designed to be run hot - it's too viscous for the engine if it's significantly cooler than normal. Keep it above 90 and you should be fine, but I really would let it run below that.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I’d say 112 deg @ 60 mph during the Winter is actually a concern!

 

That amount of heat-soak at around 3000rpm on part throttle (minimal engine load) is a problem. You've said the oil temp rises proportionally with engine load, i.e. the faster you go the hotter it gets.....well, something isn't doing it's job. The water pump perhaps? Or maybe you inadvertently introduced an air-lock into the coolant system when you changed the stat?

 

I was getting 114 @ 80 mph and it was a combination of a jamming stat, tired water pump and the closed grille. After changing all those and doing a refill of G12+ (making sure there were absolutley no air-locks) I got it down to 102....but it still got a little hot and bothered during hard summer driving.....so a Mocal found it's way on the car and I now get 90-94 on a cruise and 110 max during summer thrashes.

 

K

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I've heard that opening out the grille makes no difference at all, actually..

 

It does actually. I lost 6 degrees on the slat loss plan :lol:

Makes you wonder why the factory grilles are closed and the GPC (also genuine) are open? Bloody VW....

 

If you've money to burn, slap in an oil cooler, but make sure you don't over-cool the engine. These engines are designed to be run hot, the oil is designed to be run hot - it's too viscous for the engine if it's significantly cooler than normal. Keep it above 90 and you should be fine, but I really would let it run below that.

 

It's difficult to undercool an engine with a thermostatically controlled cooler.....there is a choice of opening temperatures but the default is 70 deg or maybe 80, can't remember but oil flows into the cooler at the point of the water thermostat opening.

 

It's worth noting that VWM did some tests on the MFA many moons ago and found that MFA oil temp is 10 degrees lower than actual sump temperature, so anything above 80 on the MFA is fine for boiling off water.

 

I wouldn't so much say the VR6 was intentionally designed to run hot.....more the resultant heat-soak is a by product of it's cylinder layout and cramped operating conditions.

 

K

[dr_mat 0]

Ah, hell, I really don't wanna go down that particular money pit right now!!!

Those "little jobs" really add up!

 

(Some engines are designed to run warmer - it's more efficient to keep the oil thinner, you get better MPG. Some engines are even smart enough to dynamically decide what's best - keeping the engine cooler when you want more performance, and warmer when you're driving in a more relaxed manner, so you get better economy.)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's just a personal thing, I was getting the same problem as CorVR6, the faster you go, the hotter it gets....into scary figures! So I thought the Mocal would be a wise purchase!

 

Obviously the engine will still work running hot but in an ideal world the oil and water would stay at 100 all day long. Not so when you've got 6 cylinders crammed into a shoe box sized engine bay :?

[Corvr6 0]

Just made another trip out tonight and oil is sitting between 112-114'C cruising at 70,coolant constant at 90'C.

I will cut out slats at weekend,and check again,but not too concerned.

As I mentioned earlier when the warmer weather draws nearer I will consider the oil cooler approach.

Thanks for your replys.

[Supercharged 2]

Coolant temp sounds fine now but I would cut the slats anyway before the summer...

 

Defo a prob with the oil temp tho!! - dead or blocked oil cooler i would say.

[Corvr6 0]

Ran another test tonight and compiled the past data,

 

WITH SLATS

 

 

SPEED = 60

RPM =2500

COOLANT = 90

OIL = 110

 

SPEED = 70

RPM =3000

COOLANT = 90

OIL = 112-114

 

SPEED = 80

RPM =3250

COOLANT = 90

OIL = 116

 

I will be removing slats from grille,but agree there is probably some additional work required here before I am totally satisfied.

The oil cooler could be clogged, I understand they have a kind of mesh in them,judging from how Stealth described the state of my oil filter it might be worth a change out.

I see they are about £30 ish from GSF or £50 ish from Stealers.

 

 

Well the slats are out and they definately do make a differance,average 6'C drop in oil temps,

NO SLATS

SPEED = 60

RPM =2500

COOLANT = 85-90

OIL = 104

 

SPEED = 70

RPM =3000

COOLANT = 85-90

OIL = 106

 

SPEED = 80

RPM =3250

COOLANT = 90

OIL = 110-112

 

Now have the Mocal oil cooler fitted by Stealth,what a differance it makes.

Also replaced the oe oil cooler at same time,(why not,only £30 approx)

Using the same format as above now my temps are;

 

SPEED = 80

RPM =3250

COOLANT = 90

OIL = 98-100

 

Watch out beemers,not backing off after a couple of miles anymore! :twisted:

 

some pics of the grille.Oil cooler and fitting to follow.