Which Aquamist Kit?

[G60SC_Stoney 0]

im gathering parts as the fitment of my new engine is fast approaching, im getting a FMIC from gwerks made up at the moment, but i also wish to run water/methanol injection, ive had a look on the website and done a search and still ont have a clue, firstly it needs to come on at full throttle, (with the ability to switch it on off at will, via a switch) and if possible also to come on at part throttle, also via a switch. any ideas ? i know a few FI VR6 people on here use the kits and may be able to help?

[Shaggy 0]

there is a kit for sale at the moment mate, in the for sale section.. its not aquamist, buts its the same kit that i run.. and works very well

 

Comes on when you want it... ie at full boost and you can wire in a switch to turn it off if you want

[G60SC_Stoney 0]

how well is very well?? would a aquamist kit be any better ?

[Shaggy 0]

depends how advanced you want it ?? if you want it to just turn on at full throttle then the kit i have on mine is fine...

 

The aquamist kits are better if you want a more advanced system.. ie mapping the water injection run along side the the cars ecu so that it adjusts pressure etc parrallel to revs etc and stuff like that

[Blue_Joe 0]

depends how advanced you want it ?? if you want it to just turn on at full throttle then the kit i have on mine is fine...

 

The aquamist kits are better if you want a more advanced system.. ie mapping the water injection run along side the the cars ecu so that it adjusts pressure etc parrallel to revs etc and stuff like that

 

Thats basically what I have installed on mine. I have the Aquamist 2d kit. It's not cheap but it is made up of far better quality components and also maps itself to mirror the fuel injectors firing!

 

Excellent kit!!

[Shaggy 0]

yeah the aquamist is the better system, it depends how much you wanna spend Dan.

[G60SC_Stoney 0]

where did you get your kit from Blue_joe?? and how much was it ? also how does it get mapped ? i'd rather get a more advanced system as i will only want to upgrade further if i got a simple one.....

[Kevin Bacon 5]

System 1s and a DDS3 probably the cheapest way into Aquamist ownership and should fulfill your requirements. DDS3 has both manual and automatic over-rides, the latter governed by float level in the washer tank. It also shows you how much water is being injected, which doubles up as a flow monitor so that you know the water is actually being fired in. LEDs hooked up to the motor output are no good as an indicator, since it doesn't tell you if the pump is actually pumping, just tells you the pump has a power supply from the relay.

 

Why would you want to switch it on manually on part throttle? You'll be on closed loop lambda and you'll bugger up the A/F, not to mention cylinder temps won't be hot enough to actually need it. It's better to have it come on at WOT and a preset manifold pressure, say, 4 psi, or what ever you want using the adjustable MPS.

 

The Aquamist pump is the best available, a race proven (i.e. endurance, as it's on a lot compared to a road car!) EM pump. Cheaper pumps use diaphragms which give good pressure and flow, but don't tend to last as long and the case is massively bigger for the same output as an electro magnetic pump.

[G60SC_Stoney 0]

Why would you want to switch it on manually on part throttle

 

i would like to have some sort of control over the system, whereby i can switch it on and off at will, i.e if i was going on a long journey whereby if it was on all the time it would run out so when i would need it there wouldnt be any mixture left. but as you say i wouldnt really need it, so i must be been typing out of my a*se when i wrote that.

 

so can anybody point me in the direction of a good supplier of these kits ?? or anyone that might do a discount ??

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Trust me mate, it won't come on as much as you think. When I had it on my VR, the tank of water used to last about 3 weeks if driven hard!

 

The DDS3 is probably best as it takes care of switching itself off if you run out of water and you can also disable it manually, which is good for seeing if it makes a difference or not on the fly.

 

My System 1s + DDS3 was £460 all in, which is ouchville, but scour ebay, they come up on there occasionally. Any old supplier will do, ERL don't discount their products much, so prices pretty much the same across the board....

[G60SC_Stoney 0]

£460 is fine, i was more on budget for £650!! also while this thread is still alive, where do you get the water/meth mix from?? i take it you mix it up yourself? is it a 50:50? also if a tank of the mix lasts 3 weeks+ is it worth rigging up another tank just for thewater injection? because i see most people use their windscreen washer tank?

 

 

little off topic, but has anyone seen these on dubforce ??

http://www.designengineering.com/produc ... m=sc&cid=1

not of much use to most people, as they would only last a few minutes, but on some monster machines (like yours Mr. cheesewire it could work??)

[NickVR6 0]

i got a brand new aquamist race pump system 1s for £100 off a guy on ebay lol!! they are about.

 

I had to pay for the DDS3, essential imo. I found the cheapest place to buy this was phoning aquamist themselves, and i have to say they were fantastic and £20 cheaper than any retailer!!

 

I phoned (at 1.30pm) and a marketing guy answered and said um er yeah, ill get one of the shop floor guys to call you back, and i thought yep heard that before!

5mins later a guy called me back and said they had no complete gauges or dds3 kits but he would make one up and took my credit card details. He also took my part numbers to check the kit was right for the C, and said a few small bits had been upgraded so he'd throw them in for me.

 

Was on my doorstep the next morning !! With a note saying give us a bell if you have any problems fitting it ! What a refreshing change hey.

 

Having said that, im stil pondering over the wiring, not my strong point :-(

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Methanol you can get from Hobby shops for a fiver a gallon and it's made by Model Technics. Any shop that has a good range of Nitro and petrol powered models will stock it.

 

Although Methanol itself is a good coolant and is combustable, you don't want too much of it, certainly not 50/50, as it's the water itself that does all the heat absorbption. Contaminate the water too much and it loses it's ability to soak up heat. Methanol is just there to replace the combustable part of the A/F you're taking away with the water - and it blends with water perfectly - so you only need a maximum of 70% water, 30% meth.

 

If you're brave, stick 10% nitromethane in with it, which is also available from hobby shops. It's lethal stuff (be careful!!), but gives a good kick. It's what Top fuel drag cars run on basically :-)

 

Regarding screen wash, you can use it in the same tank and doesn't harm the pump......in fact, the water softeners in it help prevent the injector from scaling up. Use 10% Holts screen wash as it's the only one that's methanol based. It's much simpler using one tank for both and my 3 week emptying time includes cleaning the screen!!

 

And lastly, methanol degrades in water over time, so best not to use too much of it from a financial pov too!

[iow_corrado_g60 0]

going back to earlier dan and about you not using if you on a long steady drive if its set to a higher psi like kev said you shouldnt need it all! i look forward to seeing your car soon good luck and good info as always guys!

[G60SC_Stoney 0]

cheers for the info guys, very helpful. gonna order up a kit tomorrow morning!!

[NickVR6 0]

ive just started fitting mine tonight. i know its a vr but the kits the same so ill post up some picks sunday night when its all done. Not saying you'll need help but i know i will !

[G60SC_Stoney 0]

ok mate, cheers.