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okay going to have to make myself look like a idiot again looked on seach for suspention everything fine but how the hell do you get the top nut off while holding piston with allen key is it speical socket been to halfords at others car shops nobody got anything there did find a set of box spanners but not a 21 help :oops:

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is that the same to put back on as well a mate as got a electric impact gun would that work?

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hurray i have a solution to my problem hopefully get it done next sunday swap wishbones while i am there once i get them of jbob and other bits

:salute:

 

thanks for help there corradov6-nos

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On mine I recently managed to get the top nut off using a special Lambda-probe socket, where one side is open, so you can stick an Allen key in. I still needed to excert majort force by means of an extension bar on my Allen key, though.

 

In the meantime I have a nifty little socket set from Clarke (now discontinued) where all the sockets are hollow and the ratchet is hollow, too, ideal for this kind of job. Used that kit to fit the new Koni coilies recently.

 

Tempest

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what was the socket set labeled as on the box may have a look around on net see if any still knocking around sounds very usefull 8)

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Clarke hollow ratchet and socket set. No special name. Clarke stuff is mostly sold through Machine Mart, who sold me the very last set available in the UK. You might be lucky and find one somewhere on the net, 2nd hand or something.

 

Draper / Halford do one, too, called Vortex, but their kit only goes up to size 19.

 

Tempest

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is the nut on the top 21 mm ?? :? about to do mine this weekend , in middle of fitting lowering kit to my g60 , rear in bits all over garage :!: at mo waiting for handbrake cable to come so i can do it now coz i know it'l fail mot on one side :roll: , any tips for fitting cable , hoping its easy due to axle being down ?

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is the nut on the top 21 mm ??

 

On some it seems to be 21 mm, on mine it was 22 mm, however. Try and see :-)

 

Tempest

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Did mine today and my topnut was a 22mm walk in the park to do the rears

bit of a bugger to get the nut off the fronts well tight so all in all a good day can anyone confirm when you tighten the nut back up shoul the cup still move tightened as far as it seemed or does it need tightning some more when you move the cup it moves the piston forgot to check before i changed stuff over :roll:

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Firstly, the top nut has a fairly low torque setting (I'm at work and can't remember the figure) so I really wouldn't recommend you tighten it with an air gun.

 

With the top mount fully assembled and torqued up, and then only turning the top nut without locking the damper piston, you will be able to turn the top stop along with the damper piston as they are effectively locked together by the nut.

 

The amount of turning resistance you get will depend on whether the suspension is hanging free or the weight is on the wheels.

HTH

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IIRC the very top nut was 15nm and the one below that was 25nm?

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cheers guys thats helped a bit it only seems to be the drivers side and that was the side that tightened up really easy sounds like i have over done it :oops: the nut below is that the pegged nut refering to

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The lower nut (the thing with a funny slotted top) is 40Nm (30ft lb) and the top nut is 60Nm (44ft lb)

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Did my fronts a month or 2 ago. Removal involved a 22mm socket with the top cut off, a set of mole grips, an allen key head on a large ratchet, and when that all failed, a 13mm drill bit! Refitting was easier, and the home made hollow socket/mole grip worked a treat. As there was no way of attaching the torque wrench, the top nuts were done up to FT.

 

Phil

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Hey all!

Fitted rear sus yesterday and was a piece of cake apart from having to get spacers !!

Then tried to fit front ones today!

Managed to get top nut undone and old unit out!

But car shop gave me the wrong top mout and i didnt but a new bearing so coulnt fit any of it!

Pain in the arse!!!!!

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