C cuts out occasionally when clutch depressed

[A16VVW 0]

Can somebody help

 

I've read a few similar threads but no definate answer. My VR6 is occasionally cutting out when slowing down and depressing clutch. I can whatch the rev counter drop as I push the clutch in usually it goes to 600 ish but occasionally it drops to 0 I can catch it if I'm quick but risk crashing into cars due to looking at rev counter. Any advice, car was recently serviced at vw inc plugs.

Cheers for any help.

[Linus Van Pelt 0]

I appreciate (as you obviously do) that this could be all manner of things, but in my case (where I had similar instances) it turned out to be a combination of a faulty throttle switch and temprature sensor/sender :?:

 

Please note that once my car cut out, I had to wait about 5 mins before I could get it started again (so if this isn't the case for you, I guess it may be something else).

 

It was finally diagnosed just by a visual inspection :?: by my local VAG dealer :shock:

 

I'd already tried the distributor/ISV and related stuff with no sucess as I assumed my problem was idle related. It might not help, but it's worth checking out none-the-less, assuming no-one else has got any more specific VR knowledge for you.

 

I hope you can get it sorted, I know what an pain it is to be in this situation :cry:

 

DtM.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Mine does that occasionally too and to save you some money, do not buy any of the following (because they've been done on my car and not solved it):-

 

MAF sensor

Idle valve

Throttle position sensor

Cam position sensor

Plugs and leads

Engine speed sensor

Coilpack

 

What I would do is check the condition of all the hoses at the rear of the engine as these are prone to cracking/splitting because of the heat. The brake servo hose can sometimes leak but you'd notice a drop in braking performance first.

 

The VR6 just does this from time to time, but if it does it every single time you pull up to a junction, I'd definitely investigate but if it's an occasional thing, I shouldn't worry about it too much. I bet it does it the most when you're crawling along in slow moving traffic?

 

When it does cut out, don't use the car's inertia to bump start it otherwise you could stretch the timing chains. Use the starter motor instead.

 

It might be the blue temp sensor (middle one of the three on the thermostat housing) fooling the engine into thinking it's permanently cold, therefore over fuelling it. It's the same sensor as the Digifant 8V GTI, so doesn't cost an awful lot.

 

Kev

[vr6storm 0]

mine did it once in a blue moon like maybe 3 or 4 times since i've owned it(aug01 >)especially after a good hard drive approaching junctions/roud-a-bouts etc........anyway i always put it down to driver error as i mentioned its only happened once in a blue moon and sn't/wasn't a regular fault........but after having replaced my fuel pump last week perhaps its maybe a sign of the fuel pump getting tempremental :?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Mine still does it and it's had a new pump and a whole load of other electrical goodies. It's probably something really stupid I haven't found yet, and probably costs 5p.

 

I have heard that VR6 throttle bodies can wear out and since the throttle position sensor provides the main trigger for the idle valve (also temp controlled), there could be something in that as knackered bearings in the TB would upset the TPS signal fidelity.

 

Kev

[corradovr6sc 0]

how about oil from the crankcase breather getting on the maf and fouling up the signal?

[nolan 0]

My VR6 is occasionally cutting out when slowing down and depressing clutch. I can whatch the rev counter drop as I push the clutch in usually it goes to 600 ish but occasionally it drops to 0 I can catch it if I'm quick but risk crashing into cars due to looking at rev counter. Any advice, car was recently serviced at vw inc plugs.

 

My VR6 did exactly this :mad: and after spending a lot of time and money trying the basics i gave in and went to Stealth Racing to diagnose the problem on the rolling road whilst connected to VAG-COM. 8)

 

It turned out to be a defective ISV - it would occasionally stick in the 'closed' position causing the engine to be starved of air and therefore cause the engine to cut out. Vince connected the ISV up to a pulse generator on ‘the bench’ and pulsed 12V through it until occasionally you could actually see the valve stick close and miss a 'couple of 12V pulses' (which is enough for the engine to stall under certain conditions)

 

I would try a new ISV although they cost about £120 :shock: it may be cheaper than losing your NCB :oops:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

That's a good tip that. I'll get Vince to do the same to mine when I'm there next as mine still cuts out with a brand new ISV. It might be a duff one. I wonder if it's worth polishing the vane with a dremel to alleviate any chance of sticking?

 

Kev

[nolan 0]

Kev,

 

This is something you can check yourself......what i meant by 'pulse generator' is basically quickly applying 12V to the solenoid by hand - thats what Vince did :lol: although Vince could do with a 'real digital electronic pulse generator' :wink:

[dubster82 0]

I wonder if it's worth polishing the vane with a dremel to alleviate any chance of sticking?

 

Hmmmm, not sure about that one Kev.... Sounds sore.... :shock:

 

 

:lol::lol:

[PhatVR6 0]

It's the TPS.

[A16VVW 0]

Thanks for great response :D .Seems like everyones suffered with this one! I've had 7 golfs but this VR Corrado is an enigma to me. They look the nuts and pull like a train but I'm not sure if I wasn't happier in my MK1 GTI or my 16Ver. Anyway early days yet hopefully she'll grow on me cause I've wanted one for 8 years!

 

Sometimes it won't start after cutting out. I'll work through all your suggestions, cheapest first, thanks very much.

 

Dan

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's the TPS.

 

No it isn't. I've replaced my TPS and it still cuts out.

 

Kev