Guide to fitting VR6 cams

[diggerbucket 0]

I may be tackling this sometime soon, I've got some 268s to put in and I'm considering changing tappets too. Not gonna do it unless I've a good idea of what I'm doing though, any guides out there or can someone put something together quickly?

[Goldie 2]

You must have read my mind, i was gonna post this up in the enxt couple of days for the same reason...

 

Will be watching with interest..

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's easy.

 

Hint no 1 - Timing mark on crank pulley lines with notch on block when piston 1 at TDC.

 

Hint no 2 - Remember it's a 4 stroke engine when lining up the timing mark ;-)

 

Hint no 3 - Cam ends have offset slots machined into them at the airbox end. These must be in line with the head. You can get a tool for this, or use a 4mm piece of plastic etc.

 

Hint no 4 - Replace the cam trigger wheel on the rear cam, they always break.

 

Hint no 5 - You'll need a good torque wrench, the cam sprocket bolts are done up to 100nm.

 

Hint no 6 - You'll need to hold the cams still with a 24mm spanner whilst undoing the sprocket bolts.

 

 

The rest you can work out for yourself......:lol: It is's a piece of cake.

[jamminvr6storm 0]

Mate of mine has just finnished machining the first batch of the cam slot tools (hint 3) the L shape plate that fits both cams and levels on the head, can get pics and price etc if anyone interested?

 

Also (hint 6) you might need to undo the rockers and put the cam in a vice :)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Also (hint 6) you might need to undo the rockers and put the cam in a vice :)

 

Shhhhhh, no more hints :lol:

 

Yeah that may be necessary in extreme cases, it's not the nicest of jobs removing the sprockets in situ! The rear cam is the most stubborn as most of the torque applied to that bolt just compresses the cam trigger wheel's washer, so makes it a pig to remove again.

[Goldie 2]

Shhhhhh, no more hints

 

Keep them coming in, the more info the better... :)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

LOL....OK...

 

Hint 7 - When the cams are back in again, don't be alarmed by the chain slack between the two sprockets. When you screw the upper tensioner bolt back in (27mm head), it all becomes good again. The chain span is never tight anyway, there should be about 3 or 4mm deflection. This is taken up by oil pressure when the motor is running.

 

Hint 8 - If one or both cams aren't 100% aligned properly post fitment with Piston 1 at TDC and marks lined up, do it again :lol:

 

Hint 9 - Tappets can be replaced with a cam grinding sucker tool. Only use INA tappets (stamped inside the bucket), £6.50 each from GSF, or 4 x that from VW, your choice, but they're the same thing ;-)

 

Hint 10 - Always replace the cam bearing caps in the order you removed them, but they're numbered, so you can't go wrong.....but put them on a bit of labeled cardboard as you dismantle it to be sure.

Pour a load of clean oil on the tappets and cams upon reassembly, no need for cam paste or anything.

 

The NASTY hint - check the condition of the upper tensioner pad. If it's scored to hell and breaking up (seperating from the rivets).....oh dear.....kick start that chain replacement fund right away.

 

Hint 11 - Replace rocker cover gasket.

 

Honestly, it will all make sense when you start stripping it down....

[Goldie 2]

Nice one Kev, appreciated.

 

Will be taking the job on in the next few weeks, ill post up my findings...

[Kevin Bacon 5]

No probs..... I see you've got a VGI already......don't expect miracles until you've had it remapped for the 268s is all I'll say.... you might be mildly dissapointed otherwise.

[Goldie 2]

Yip i have got my hands on the VGI, gonna put it all in together..

 

Im afraid the mapping will have to wait a couple of months but am aware that until its done that they wont be at full potential..

 

I know we are drifting slightly off topic here but how much is it likely to set me back to get it set up properly??

[diggerbucket 0]

Hint no 2 - Remember it's a 4 stroke engine when lining up the timing mark ;-)

 

I guess this will become obvious when it's all in front of me, but what am I looking for here?

 

 

Hint no 4 - Replace the cam trigger wheel on the rear cam, they always break.

 

What is this, and are they readily available? VW item?

 

 

What would all the checkpoints be for making sure the timing is correct once I'm done? i.e. what could I bugger up and get in the wrong position? :lol:

 

edit: and one more Q - just trying to visualise this, when I take out the tensioner on the back of the head, does that gives you enough slack to remove the cams and sprockets or is there something else?

[Mark_Storm 0]

Was thinking about giving this a go, and there's a very comprehensive guide in the WIKI but if you do get it wrong it could lead to serious problems. Considering it'll cost around £300 for the re-map I've decided to pay the extra to get the cams fitted at the same time which is about £200. Seems alot but if you do get it wrong then be prepared for a serioulsy big bill!!!

[diggerbucket 0]

bumpy bump, anyone help with my last couple of n00b questions?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

What are you lot like? This is basic DIY stuff :lol:

 

Hint 2 - 4 stroke. What I was hinting at here is don't confuse cylinder 1's compression stroke with it's exhaust stroke, so you may need to spin the engine 4 times (by hand obviously!) to get it in the right place. Remove the spark plugs before turning the engine over (27mm socket on the crank pulley) unless you're name is Mr I. Hulk.

 

When 1 is at TDC, the following are true:-

 

- Both it's cam lobes will be 'relaxed' i.e. not pushing the cams.

 

- The crank pulley marks will align. i.e notch in pulley aligns with raised marker on the block / crank seal casing.

 

- If you poke a wooden stick in the plug hole, the piston will be at the top of it's bore.

 

- The machined slots in the cams will be exactly in line with the top of the head.

 

Now you are ready to take the cams out because you KNOW the engine is timed up correctly should anything go wrong, not that it will, cause it's easy remember ;-)

 

Get a mate to hold the 24mm spanner whilst you crack off the cam sprocket bolts, or if you're really, really careful, wedge the spanner up against a bearing cap on the opposite cam and then you can do it solo.

 

Once the cam sprockets are off, hang the chain up with some string to the bonnet, don't let it flop down into the gap!!

 

Remove all the bearing caps and the cams.

 

Pull out the tappets with your fingers or a valve lapping tool and bin them.

 

Put new ones in with lots of fresh oil.

 

Put your 268s in, remembering that orientation of the machined ends.

 

Replace bearing caps with loads of oil, and tighten them in sequence carefully to gradually inch the cams down against the valve spring pressure.

 

Double, triple and quadruple check the cams still align against the head.

 

If they do, you now need to put the chain back on, so with the two sprockets in your hand, wrap the chain round both of them and try to slide them onto the cams. This will take a few attempts to get right the first time you do it until you get a 'feel' for the right angle. You'll see what I mean.

 

When the sprockets are back on the cams with the chain, make sure they're still aligned. Tighten up the sprocket bolts and put the chain tensioner back in.

 

Spin the engine by hand 4 whole revolutions and double check the cam timing. If it's still lined up, leave the rocker cover and plugs off and spin the engine over to get some oil pressure in the tensioner.

 

Reassamble everything.

 

I've probably missed / forgotten something but that's the jist of it....

 

Yes the cam trigger wheel is a VW part, about £7.

[diggerbucket 0]

Brilliant, can always rely on Kev to provide a detailed and accurate answer 8)

 

Will update the thread once I've had a go at it :)

[Goldie 2]

Im going to be taking this on at the weekend...

 

Is there a Guide anywhere for doing this just for some extra info....

[Mark_Storm 0]

There's a comprehensive guide in the Wiki, defiantely get the remap done after tho if you want the best out of them

[Goldie 2]

There's a comprehensive guide in the Wiki,

 

Ive had peep through it and the closest i can find is timing chain replacement guide....

 

How you finding the car with the mani and cams, mine should be all together by next week and then its save up for the remap time..

[Goldie 2]

Right...

 

Have made an attempt at doing this..

 

Couple of questions..

 

My crank pulley diesnt have any marks on it which obviously isnt ideal so am i correct to think that im at No 1 piston TDC when the slot at the Airbox end of the cam is horizontal (in line with the head) and that the line and marking OT1 is facing up.. Is the correct stroke of the cycle i need???

 

Anyway the job was going well, removed manifold etc etc and now i cant get the top timing chain cover off. All of the allen studs wont budge as they are round, not a happy shopper to say the least!!!!

[double-6s 0]

Make sure you work out how to do it properly mate - then you can pop over and remove mine! :)

 

 

 

 

(when you bring the temp unit back) ;)

[Goldie 2]

Not a prob Will....

 

The job itself doesnt look bad at all but these bolts have done me over a treat...

[RS VR6 0]

The bearing caps will be loads of fun to put back on.

 

On yeah...while your at it...replace the cam sensor trigger wheel while your at it. Sometimes thay go bad after removing the cams. Mine was causing a CPS code after the motor was back together. Its a cheap part at 17usd...why risk it.

[double-6s 0]

Not a prob Will....

 

The job itself doesnt look bad at all but these bolts have done me over a treat...

 

 

You seem to be turning into a bit of a spanner monkey mate. You can teach me everything you know :)

[Goldie 2]

Progress update...

 

Thanks to DanVW for the use of his bolt stripper kit and to Toad for delivering it and helping get the bolts off...

 

The majority of them were completely screwed, the headgasket and associated bits were done by VW 4 years ago so a big thanks to them for making an arse of the job...

 

On the plus side chains, tensioner etc look in good shape so im happy about that...

 

Tried to undo the cam sprockets but they are tight as so reckon ill remove them as a oner and put them in a vice to get them off...

 

All being well it should be done tomorrow but im not getting the chain cover bolts till tuesday so no car for a couple of days...

[Goldie 2]

You can teach me everything you know

 

I wouldnt rely on me mate... Ill help you whip the cams out though if you need...