J a m e s 0 Posted October 31, 2003 what will they be?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J a m e s 0 Posted October 31, 2003 and drinking petrol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazzaG60 0 Posted October 31, 2003 no boost-get a gauge to test it. you should see 8-11psi on a std pully bad O2 probe-shouldn't effect WOT. stuck WOT switch-that should make it rich all the time but ok on boost. compression-get it tested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J a m e s 0 Posted October 31, 2003 I can borrow my mates boost gauge, where do i wire it up to? what is WOT?? it has a kink in a boost pipe where a DV has been fitted, will this cause problems??? also as mentioned before the Accelerator pedal is real stiff. Thanks for the reply :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted October 31, 2003 Swap the throttle cable, if that doesn't work you could have a screwed throttle position sensor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazzaG60 0 Posted October 31, 2003 pathc up thew boost pipe. remove the kink. G60s have a good chance at getting boost leaks due to the amount of exposed plastic pipes. check the pipe before the intercooler too on the square section behind the rad. Change the throttle cable. when stiff they struggle to hit the idle switch and WOT (wide open throttle) switch. the cable stretches. It s bad not to hit the WOT switch. this may starve your motor of fuel. Theres no throttle positioning sensor on a G60. just 2 switches idel and WOT. get a AF gauge in there to check operation. this clearly shows the o2 operation along with WOT and idle. its not that good at showing accurate fueling stuff but can help diag problems. If you are putting the boost gauge in permanently then tap in under the dash into the vac line to the clocks otherwise a temp one can be put on the front of the inlet manifold on one of the pipes. some have a capped point already. others need a t-piece. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J a m e s 0 Posted October 31, 2003 thanks for the replies, how much are boost pipes from VAG??? the one that comes of the charger at the front to ??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazzaG60 0 Posted October 31, 2003 not sure. they aint the best design. get some ali ones made. it wont make that much difference on performance but will last longer. or get a FMIC if you got a early G60 theni got a set of eurosport polished pipes you can buy off me. they dont fit my 92 and i use a front mount anyway. i used the res box-ic one though as it fitted. mods i know this aint a selling thread but i wasn't going on a selling tangent just trying to help out. 50 quid if you want um and need um. i wouldn't buy new pipes unless needed. replace the service items like o2, Vac hose, plugs leads dizzy cap, knock sensor first better to have a good running engine than a good looking one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J a m e s 0 Posted October 31, 2003 i have a 91 J, will they fit??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted October 31, 2003 what is WOT?? Wide Open Throttle or something like that :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Majik 0 Posted October 31, 2003 Have you serviced the car at all? check usual small things (filters, plugs, dizzi cap, rotor arm, leads) before looking at bigger parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J a m e s 0 Posted October 31, 2003 it was serviced just before i got it. dizzi cap? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Majik 0 Posted October 31, 2003 distributor cap! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J a m e s 0 Posted October 31, 2003 lol im used to dealing with coil packs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazzaG60 0 Posted October 31, 2003 no dont think the pipes fit a 91. it needs the longer throttle body hose i think Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted November 2, 2003 Car not running right? Here's some common debugging tips! 1. Engine running warmed up, unplug the blue coolant temp switch, does anything change? No = bad coolant temp. Alt: 1000 ohms resistance after normal operating temps 2. Air Temp (on intercooler tube) 500 ohms on outer two pins, you have to drill out the cap to get the adjustment. 3. O2 sensor, of course, check the wires/harness for any damage. If you haven't replaced this lately, might be time to get the universal and just crimp the wires on. $60 or less. 4. The TB -> ecu hose must be plugged in the right place. its closed to the passenger side. Unplug the ecu hose from the ECU , if the car still runs like crap, then its the ecu hose. Don't even attempt to drive the car with the ecu hose off. 5. Check your battery voltage, If the battery voltage goes low, the ECU dumps 25% more fuel than normal. 6. The ground wires, to the head, and everywhere else. Bad grounds are a common issue with this car, especially the one to the head. 7. Distributor cap/rotor, remove, inspect and clean dirt. Sandpaper any "growth/corrosion" on the metal contact points. 8. Wires,plugs, you should remove the plugs and inspect for damage, or fouling from being rich. 9. If o2 sensor goes bad, it will kill the cat real quick. Remove the cat by lowering exhaust, look inside, if its crumbly, turned sideways, or black, its probably dead. 10. Check vacuum through boost gauge (10-15psi of vacuum) or MFA (84-104) at idle. Anything else, you might have a big vacuum leak. 11. ISV - if you haven't rerouted it, you may have a leaking ISV. 12. Idle screw on throttle body. Make sure its not gone, or about to fall out. Usually results in "hunting" or high rpm idle. 13. Have you changed the fuel filter lately? Its by the passenger rear wheel. Easy to change, watch out for gas spraying you in the face! 14. Timing. If you don't own a timing light, you can mark the distributor cap and base with some paint/white-out. Unbolt the ~13mm bolt that holds the distributor down. Turning the distributor cap right, will retard timing, Turning left will advance. Advance = more power, quicker off the line, more likely to ping/knock with poor gas. Retard is when you feel pinging or detonation. I'd suggest, on the hottest day possible, advancing a little, driving, and advancing more until you feel knock/detonation or pinging when you first get on the gas. Then back off some. Stock timing is 6-8 degrees, with good 93+octane gas , you should be able to go higher. With poor 91 octane, you are going to have to back off timing a bit with most chips. Do you know how to test your boost levels? 1. Start Motor 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop motor 5. Start Motor 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! USA EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 15 200 -23.7 55 400 -17.8 90 600 -11.9 127 800 -5.9 148 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 172 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 192 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 211 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 228 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 242 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 255 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) 255 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 242 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended Taken from http://www.snstuning.com (DIY section) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J a m e s 0 Posted November 4, 2003 thanks for your in depth reply. found the problem, there was a big hole in a boost pipe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J a m e s 0 Posted November 5, 2003 You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! USA EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 15 200 -23.7 55 400 -17.8 90 600 -11.9 127 800 -5.9 148 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 172 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 192 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 211 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 228 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 242 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 255 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) on tickover mine idles at around 400-500 not 84-104 so still have a big leak? top peak so far has been around 1500, so still got a big boost leak, but car does feel like its going well lol. dont think my tape on the boost pipe is doing alot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
20valver 0 Posted November 5, 2003 Gave this a go last nite and was idling around 450, and then managed to hit just under 2000. Thats with a 68mm, RSR outlet and ported charger. Still feels like there should be a bit more in her though. :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J a m e s 0 Posted November 5, 2003 idle seems ok then, just need to get the charger rebuilt and new boost pipes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted November 6, 2003 Mine idles around 450 as well - I think that this must be standard for UK spec cars. See http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=4800 for more info Although http://www.snstuning.com deals with US spec cars most of the info on there seems to be valid for UK spec too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
