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oil pressure gauage

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so how do you fit one. where does the sender go, and do i need any special fittings.?

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I'd advise an eletrical rather than mechanical. You'll need a 3 way connector as it goes where the sender is on the block (I can get a picture if you need). Basically screw in the adaptor and then screw the original sender and the new new sender in to the adapter. If they're tapered threads (which they should be)make sure you use teflon tape otherwise you'll get oil leaks, and make sure none of the teflon gets over the end of the sender.

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pic would be great.

tried to wire it up today and my new air fuel gauge didn't work. :(

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Will sort you out a pic tomorrow. My AFR didn't work at first - dodgy lambda probe (and the fact that the garage that had installed it had connected it to the wrong wire - muppets). I've noticed with mine that it takes 5 min or so to warm up. Have you checked the output of your lambda probe when warm and idling - voltage should bounce around once a second or so.

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Here's a couple of pics for you of where the sender goes. Remarkably difficult to get an image in there. Basically though you need to put an adapter in where the oil sensor is, just to the right of the supercharger support bracket. Then screw the original sender back in along with the new oil pressure gauge sender. Hopefully this will all make sense....

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Tim at the Phirm had one laying around when I got it fitted. Demon tweeks do them as well I think (seem to recall seeing them in their catalogue). They also just pipe fittings, so if you have a local supplier for those they should be able to help. I think from memory the standard threead in the block is 10mm, as is the original sender, and the other hole needs to be whatever the sender from your oil pressure gauge is tapped to (mine was designed for the US market, so typically was imperial rather than metric, doh). You'll need teflon tape (plumbers tap) as well on the threads as they are tapered and wont seal without it.

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You'll need teflon tape (plumbers tap) as well on the threads as they are tapered and wont seal without it.

 

 

I know they're a bit expensive new but a dual pole VDO sender saves a whole bunch of hassle:

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You'll need teflon tape (plumbers tap) as well on the threads as they are tapered and wont seal without it.

 

 

I know they're a bit expensive new but a dual pole VDO sender saves a whole bunch of hassle:

 

How much is expensive?

R they available from any Vw dealers?

Do U know the part no's?

 

thnks in advance.

Robert

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but dave the sender still needs to screw into something..

 

that's the point, they replace one existing sender and add an output for the gauges (they are 2 pole, warning switch and varying pressure output)

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You'll need teflon tape (plumbers tap) as well on the threads as they are tapered and wont seal without it.

 

 

I know they're a bit expensive new but a dual pole VDO sender saves a whole bunch of hassle:

 

How much is expensive?

R they available from any Vw dealers?

Do U know the part no's?

 

thnks in advance.

Robert

 

there's at least 2 0-5 bar versions (the second output replacing the existing warning sender can be differnt values to replace different warning senders)

and there's at least one 0-10 bar version

these can be found on Porsche 924's, audi 80 sports and coupe's and other VW's and audi's that may have had them as factory options, e.g. some mk1 GTI's etc...

 

price wise new you're looking at 40-50 quid from some tuning companies or far more from VW

 

 

part no.s

035 919 561A 0-5 bar and 1.8bar (i.e. replaces high pressure sender)

535 919 561B 0-10 bar only (no second terminal, so not really any better than the aftermarket shown in earlier post)

035 919 561 0-5 bar and 0.3 bar (i.e. replaces low pressure sender)

????????? 0-10 bar and 0.3 bar from porsche 924

 

 

would need to check second (warning buzzer) output value on this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/classic-saab-900- ... otohosting

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ok found these. but which one. ahhhhhh http://www.demontweeks.co.uk/products/P ... ode=LMA050

 

the sender unit is 1/8th tapered. but what is the thread in the oiler filter housing.??? :roll:

 

I believe the standard ones are M10, but can't remember if they are 1 or 1.5 pitch. Best check with Darren on that one. Remember though if you want to do this, any tapered thread will need to be plumbers taped to stop it leaking.

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you should not need to use any plumbers tape thats the idea of a tappered thread.

i have just installed a VAG gauge panel (oil + volts) into my vr6 and the dual pole sender i got with it screws straight in and does not leak.

i got all the parts for this from VAG parts.

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i have just installed a VAG gauge panel (oil + volts) into my vr6 and the dual pole sender i got with it screws straight in and does not leak.

i got all the parts for this from VAG parts.

 

I've got a set of VDO gauges to go in my VR6, trying to work out which senders to use... Do you know the part number of the oil pressure sender VAG supplied?

 

Cheeers

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you should not need to use any plumbers tape thats the idea of a tappered thread.

i have just installed a VAG gauge panel (oil + volts) into my vr6 and the dual pole sender i got with it screws straight in and does not leak.

i got all the parts for this from VAG parts.

 

VDO/VAG senders use a soft washer to seal, generally you get away with reusing them too, so it's not the thread or PTFE tape that seals them.

 

 

A 0-10 bar gauge needs a 0-10 bar sender VW part no. 535 919 561B, this is a single connector sender and may require a 't' piece to fit along with one of the original pressure warning senders fitted to the car.

 

if you fit an early style round 52mm pressure gauge, these are often 0-5 bar and require a 0-5 bar sender no. 035 919 561A, the latter commonly used on Audi sports/coupe's/100's, porker 924's even some volvos and saabs I think. There is an alternative part to this, possibly a 'B' suffix which is still 0-5 bar but relaces the other value warning sender, so either will do.

This sender has two connections, one for the gauge(variable) and one fixed value, so the sender is used to replace one of the existing warning switches, the values are stamped on each so check which one to replace by unscrewing one and look underneath.

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