Kevin Bacon 5 Posted August 10, 2007 Sorry I forgot - Kev is as always the oracle of all things that are everything! ........................................ My Arse! So who is then? You? PMSL :lol: I studied this schitt at college and have years of practical experience in hi-fi, but clearly someone like you can't handle that and stoops to the playground tactics of calling me a know-it-all..... if that's how you interpret my posts, that's your problem. I'm not going to restrain my opinions and pretend 6x4 speakers can handle 100W RMS of full range Audio just to fall in line and play nice, f'ck that. 80Hz is a strong, punchy bass frequency and 100W RMS of that will destroy the voicecoil, which is going to be around 22mm diameter, and it just won't take the heat....and that's assuming it doesn't hit it's xmax first and stay there...100W RMS of 1KHz it could handle no problem I'm sure......actually, why the feck am I bothering to explain this..... Oh, I'm a know-it-all, that's right :roll: It doesn't have to say it on the box for you to understand where are best to use it. Would you really expect to achieve what you are saying out of that product?? Erm, it's quoted range is 80hz to 20khz, which is practically full range. Not everyone will instinctively know to switch on the hipass filters on to block out sub 100hz bass. If I didn't know better (but I do cause I am the Oracle) I would buy those, hook them up to a full range amp and watch them burn up when I try and stick 100W RMS through them. Hell it's even worth buying some neos, hooking them up to my Dual Mono and blowing it up just to prove it..... No but use it sensibly and set it up correctly and it doesn't take a genius that you obviously try and make yourself out to be! Genius? This is high level fundamental stuff :roll: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yalan 0 Posted August 10, 2007 From my experience, the choices are thus: Buy very good component speakers and use them in custom pods etc and you may just get a good enough sound without any rear speakers or subs. Only time I've experienced this was with a £700 HU, a £600 amp and £400 front speakers! Buy a good set of components and run an amped sub for the low range - you lose your boot space Buy a good set of components and a set of 6x9s to deliver the low range. Cheaper and more compact than having a sub but won't be able to deliver the hard low end. Its all a compromise, though it doesn't have to cost much and can be built up in stages. I've got a lovely little PPI sub here for when I can be bothered to build a box for it. Until then I'll stick with my 6x9s (which came with the car!) Personally I went for a single 4 channel amp for the system. £100 for an old soundstream reference. Go oldschool... great bargains at low prices! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blue_Joe 0 Posted August 10, 2007 What you have to remember Kev, it's not what you say alot of the time but how you say it. I appreciate that that is difficult to get across on a forum due to the lack of body language and having met you in person your a good guy. However on the forum you come across all too often as antagonistic! And it grates sometimes! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted August 10, 2007 My kappas up front are: 50W/RMS 150W Peak 4? The Lanzar Neo's are: 110 Watt/RMS, 220 Watt Peak, 4? What sort of amp should I be looking for? Two channel? Multichannel? As junkie says I ideally need something that can match my max RMS (be it theoretical or not!). If I was to get an amp would it be worth not getting an active sub like the Basslink and just buy a normal sub instead and drive it from the amp or would I be needing to spend a lot on an amp to drive all of that lot? You just need an amp that is comfortably *greater* than the rating of the speakers. The most damaging thing you can do is run an amp to distortion, whereas running speakers to distortion (usually) doesn't do any long term damage, and you'll turn it back down pretty sharpish. If you're going to run a two-channel amp for four speakers you'll either wire them in series (giving you 8 ohms load on each channel) or in parallel (giving you only 2 ohms load - which will probably be too low for most amps to handle, that's practically a short circuit). A four channel amp could drive each speaker individually, but you might need to give it four inputs so you might need four outputs from your head unit.. (They should all have that now I suspect). Look for the amp ratings at the right load. Most amps can deliver 100W into 8 ohms, and I would have thought the in-car amps can cope with 4 ohms pretty well, but you'll be paying serious dosh for something that will deliver 100W into 2 ohms .. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
junkie 0 Posted August 10, 2007 When rating an amp to speakers it is def better to go overboard on power as said it gives room to play with, an under powered speaker will blow first before an over powered 1, and do you want to run an amp thats too small on its limit than an over powered 1 working easily within its range. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yalan 0 Posted August 10, 2007 it is def better to go overboard on power as said it gives room to play with People do go on about this 'headroom' lark. If you're thinking about getting a cheap jetsound or something this might be an issue, but what you're implying is that it is going to damage a set of '100w' speakers by using a 50w rms rated amp. And this simply isn't the case. I've never used an amp rated at more than 60w per channel. My current is only 50wpc and even with the gains at almost their minamum, I cannot drive with the volume above 1/3. Plenty of power and masses of 'headroom' for the components. If you suggest people need 100+wpc, you'll have people spending a fortune entirely unecessarily - especially when they're people like Jim who just want a good sounding system without head pounding bass etc! I'd suggest reading this, very informative thread http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=215537 And maybe a bit of this for some back to basics of choosing parts for modest systems: http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=48&Itemid=26 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
junkie 0 Posted August 11, 2007 Yes i see your point, im not really looking at the point of view of a good basic sounding system. My comment was more of a generalisation about powering speakers. Anyway its not always just about the power but what source the amps get as in how clean and strong the signal is, how good the components in the amplifier are, do they distort the signal or whatever in the amplification process and prob loads more i dont know about. Whatever you do dont go down the clipping road, basically like running your engine lean. Will last but how long? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted August 11, 2007 Well .. basically you want to overrate the amp so that if you turn the volume up and hear distortion it will be caused by the speaker not the amp, cos if the amp clips, the speaker will be much more likely to blow up. (I did this once with a PA rig. I knew it was clipping, but couldn't get to slap the DJ fast enough to turn it down.. Had to replace a tweeter.) Of course, if you never turn your 4W per channel valve amp up far enough that it clips, you will never have a problem, obviously .. so you go on your budget - 40 high quality watts is better than 100 bad watts, but you need to be aware that if you clip your amp you'll take out the speakers too .. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
junkie 0 Posted August 11, 2007 Better explanation than mine dr_mat :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
