ABS light arghhhhh!!

[VR6Pete 0]

Could just be dry joint on the PCB in which case it's a DIY fix. Any more than than then give BBA Reman a call

 

 

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[Brunty's Dad 10]

Drove to the shops, started car to come home and the ABS did s system check and went out. Mad dash to the MOT garage and now OK for 12 months. Still haven't a clue what has happened.

[seanl82 23]

Give it a good stomp on the brakes every now and then, gives the valves a good work out to stop the sticking which usually causes the issues with the pump. In theory the self test sequence at start up should cycle the valves, but not sure how much movement is involved in it. Just regurgitating what others have said in the past as it seems to work apparently.

[Brunty's Dad 10]

Thansk, worth a try.

[Brunty's Dad 10]

After weeks of ABS free of problems it has started again. Light stays on after initial self test but always behaves correctly after a drive of 10 miles to the nearest town. Any thoughts?

[Dox 23]

Mine did the same before I swapped the pump for a used one. Then the pedal sensor gave trouble, swapped that too and all was good for 6 months - the car is now sorned.

 

Engine bay heat cause the PCBs to expand a little making the dry soldered joints to remake there contact for a while?

[MZpog 10]

After weeks of ABS free of problems it has started again. Light stays on after initial self test but always behaves correctly after a drive of 10 miles to the nearest town. Any thoughts?

 

My valver had intermittent ABS woes at one point. The light would sometimes stay on but if I turned the key off/on again would work ok. Then it started illuminating whilst driving along (especially going over bumps) but a quick key off/on at whatever speed would sort it. When the light started illuminating more regular it made diagnosing the problem a lot easier.

 

ABS sensors checked with multi-meter - plugs pulled at strut tops and from under rear seat. 1.1 to 1.3 ohms (I think) is the range I was looking for and turned out my rear N/S was out of spec. Took it to my mechanic in knowledge that the rears are the worse to do and let him swap the old one out and it's been spot on since.

[Brunty's Dad 10]

Sorted! Took it to a local garage advertising diagnostics and asked them to look at the ABS. Collected it today, the mechanic told me that he checked for continuity and cleaned all connections on the ABS wiring. Light goes out and no error code now.

[Rob W 10]

although I've been through this thread many times, it seems that the dreaded ABS light issue won't go away.

 

i am getting my Rado (VR6 1994) ready for MOT, and all it needs, other than a bit of welding, is for me to get the ABS light to go away for good.

 

on initial start up, light goes on, then off. then after a short period comes back on. i have from time to time felt the pedal vibrate as it pushes back at low speeds, but this has only happened after it has been sat for a while.

 

all sensors are new, showing >1K Ohms when checked. the sensor cages are also new. the 30A fuses under the left dashboard seem to be good.

 

I've tried to give the brakes a good pressing when driving to try and 'un-stick' the valves in the ABS pump, but still, no change. i see that some of you on this thread may have had this issue, albeit, a few years ago, is there any other areas to look at before i start to look at getting a refurbished ABS pump.

 

many thanks in advance.

[Mystic Blue VR 10]

although I've been through this thread many times, it seems that the dreaded ABS light issue won't go away.

 

i am getting my Rado (VR6 1994) ready for MOT, and all it needs, other than a bit of welding, is for me to get the ABS light to go away for good.

 

on initial start up, light goes on, then off. then after a short period comes back on. i have from time to time felt the pedal vibrate as it pushes back at low speeds, but this has only happened after it has been sat for a while.

 

all sensors are new, showing >1K Ohms when checked. the sensor cages are also new. the 30A fuses under the left dashboard seem to be good.

 

I've tried to give the brakes a good pressing when driving to try and 'un-stick' the valves in the ABS pump, but still, no change. i see that some of you on this thread may have had this issue, albeit, a few years ago, is there any other areas to look at before i start to look at getting a refurbished ABS pump.

 

many thanks in advance.[/QUOT

 

The brake pedal was doing that on mine. Turned out to be a slightly buckled front ABS ring. Confuses the ABS sensor as the air gap is uneven. Managed to straighten mine but you may have to replace if too bad. You can check if the ring is bent by rotating the disc & look for an even gap all the way round at the ABS sensor if that makes sense.

[Rob W 10]

although I've been through this thread many times, it seems that the dreaded ABS light issue won't go away.

 

i am getting my Rado (VR6 1994) ready for MOT, and all it needs, other than a bit of welding, is for me to get the ABS light to go away for good.

 

on initial start up, light goes on, then off. then after a short period comes back on. i have from time to time felt the pedal vibrate as it pushes back at low speeds, but this has only happened after it has been sat for a while.

 

all sensors are new, showing >1K Ohms when checked. the sensor cages are also new. the 30A fuses under the left dashboard seem to be good.

 

I've tried to give the brakes a good pressing when driving to try and 'un-stick' the valves in the ABS pump, but still, no change. i see that some of you on this thread may have had this issue, albeit, a few years ago, is there any other areas to look at before i start to look at getting a refurbished ABS pump.

 

many thanks in advance.[/QUOT

 

The brake pedal was doing that on mine. Turned out to be a slightly buckled front ABS ring. Confuses the ABS sensor as the air gap is uneven. Managed to straighten mine but you may have to replace if too bad. You can check if the ring is bent by rotating the disc & look for an even gap all the way round at the ABS sensor if that makes sense.

 

 

Sounds good, I’ll give it a try tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

 

Many thanks

[Brunty's Dad 10]

For What it is worth I'll recount my recent experience. When my ABS light started to misbehave yet again I decided to check the dash light itself. One of the spring loaded retaining pieces between the light and the loom plug had broken. Gaffer tape repair and all good for a while. After a few weeks light came on, stayed on and did not flicker. My son examined it and took the light itself apart. Inside is a small circuit board with contacts passing through holes in the back of the unit. The solder joints to the board had broken down and they all flopped around as if hinged. A dab of solder to each, reassemble and so far so good. I hesitate to tempt fate and say repaired but still working after a couple of months. Good luck.

[Rob W 10]

I've checked the ABS Cage and there was no distortion. I've checked the circuit board on the light and all seems fine, annoyingly the ABS works fine! but still, once i go over 10-15cmph, the light comes on and i know that once its on the MOT roller brake test the light will come on and FAIL!!!

 

thanks for the above ideas, but it seems that neither have sorted my issue out.

 

id be glad for any other thoughts out there.

[GlosterOx 0]

As mentioned in another thread, it could be the circuit board in the bottom of the ABS Pump as it warms up?

[Rob W 10]

Yeah, i had that in mind, but I'm hoping to cover all the easy bases before i start to take the ABS pump of to repair/overhaul.

 

Just by chance, do you know of anyone who does the ABS pump overhaul?

[leon263 0]

Yeah, i had that in mind, but I'm hoping to cover all the easy bases before i start to take the ABS pump of to repair/overhaul.

 

Just by chance, do you know of anyone who does the ABS pump overhaul?

 

 

 

You may remember that Wheeler Dealers did a Corrado a while back and they had the ABS pump repaired. Check out the link below and you'll find the name of the company they used about half way down the page.

 

 

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91993-Wheeler-Dealers/page14

[Dox 23]

You have the same size tyres front and back?

 

Have you scanned it?

[Rob W 10]

all tyres are the same all round. What do you mean 'Scanned it', are you talking about plugging the diagnostics into it? if yes, then i have plugged it in but i think i bought a crappy one from china, it won't let me erase all faults to conduct a full check. I'm getting a friend to lend me theres hopefully next week to see if i can get any other feedback.

 

You have the same size tyres front and back?

 

Have you scanned it?

[Rob W 10]

You may remember that Wheeler Dealers did a Corrado a while back and they had the ABS pump repaired. Check out the link below and you'll find the name of the company they used about half way down the page.

 

 

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91993-Wheeler-Dealers/page14

 

 

just been in touch with the company, 160 for them to collect, repair and deliver. seems a bargain. hopefully gonna get it plugged in to a decent OBD1 next week and check the faults over first.

[Dox 23]

Some say they can't scan C ABS, but mine scans with VCDS.

 

Whereabouts are you?

 

I presume you have the reluctor rings fitted to the rear discs? Your car seems to be seeing a speed differential front to rear?

 

Happy to scan anyone if they're close to Cheshire

[Rob W 10]

Some say they can't scan C ABS, but mine scans with VCDS.

 

Whereabouts are you?

 

I presume you have the reluctor rings fitted to the rear discs? Your car seems to be seeing a speed differential front to rear?

 

Happy to scan anyone if they're close to Cheshire

 

im in Wiltshire. thanks anyway.

 

i renewed discs all round and new rings when i changed the rear hubs.

[Rob W 10]

Well, i think I'm getting somewhere.

 

just been able to get back to working on the Rado as i've been away with work for a while. i sent the ABS Pump off to the company used on 'wheeler Dealers', unfortunately/fortunately, they informed me that the pump was all ok. Now i have it all fitted, and bleed the system and i still had feed back coming through the brake pedal whilst driving and the light came back on. it was then i realised that there is a bleed valve on the M/C. well, i didn't know that. so much air came out of it there was a sense of relief. Finally, the feed back form the pedal has now gone. the light still remains. i looked at the ECU this afternoon and noticed that the pins were badly corroded. this was due to the heater matrix fault when i acquired the Rado. all cleaned up and and all back together. from there i checked all the sensors resistance from the ECU harness back and found the F/L sensor is only reading 780 ohms, not the 1-1.3k ohms required. F/L sensor is now on route and i am hopeful that this all the issues dealt with for the ABS.

 

Fingers crossed, i'll have my Rado in for its MOT within the next few weeks. i hope!!!