Oil, cold weather selection.

[oilman 0]

At this time of year, it

[boost monkey 0]

Interesting read!

 

Are thin oils ok to use in all engines, or are some older engines with possible worn seals etc more likely to blow the oil out the exhaust?

 

*possible leading question...*

[oilman 0]

Depends what yopu mean by old? As long as the synthetic is of the correct viscosity then no reason not to use one. We have many customers running vintage and classic engine of ester based 15w-50 oils.

 

Cheers

 

Guy

[Philmo 0]

Interesting!

From the table 10W/50 looks a good compromise.

Don't oils have additives [eg Magnatec?] these days to protect from static engine state?

[boost monkey 0]

Ah right! I thought 50 means it's thick? I had a friend with a morris minor who decided to put the good stuff in. It blew all of it out the exhaust within a tank of petrol :-s

 

good to have that info though, I wouldn't have thought about it otherwise.

[oilman 0]

Don't oils have additives [eg Magnatec?] these days to protect from static engine state?

 

If you are thinking of the screaming engine on the magnat adds then its the ester content they are on about. The magnatec is not all that gread when it comes to it in the real world, you need a lot of ester content in the oil for it to work and the magnatec just does not have enough... So its there for kind of marketing really.

 

The real deal are full on ester based synthetics such as the Silkolene Pro S, Motul 300v, Redline and Millers.

 

Cheers

 

Guy

[Neil VR6 0]

Certainly for a VR 10W/40 is the standard recommended viscosity anyway so we should be okay shouldn't we?

[Philmo 0]

The real deal are full on ester based synthetics such as the Silkolene Pro S, Motul 300v, Redline and Millers.

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

Right - so how do the fully synthetics line up against a widely [erroneously?] held view that semis are better for VR's?

 

Cheers

Phil

[davidwort 0]

I think that's generally come about from the limited range of oils that VW, GSF etc stock on the shelf, 10/40 Quantum Semi being the old favourite, the equivalent VW fully synthetic being very expensive in comparison.

Providing you don't go for an oil specified for very new high tolerance engines and totally out of spec for the VR/16v etc you will be fine, VW tappets tend to let you know straight away if you've put something too light in there!

There's many an old GTI that has been run on Mobil 1 for instance with no ill effects.

[oilman 0]

Synthetics stack up better then the semi synthetics, in all areas. No reason why a Corrado would not like one, unless the wrong one is used or the engine is in a real bad way.

 

Cheers

 

Guy

[Pip14 0]

As a newbie to rados, can I ask is 10w40 the best for my 2.0 16v? will be having to start it up for work at ridiculous hours in frozen winter mornings. Also are the expensive makes, magnatec n stuff worth the xtra cost? Thanks.

[oilman 0]

10w-40 semi or better 5w-40 synthetic for those frosty mornings. Magnatec is a semi synthetic and not really worht the extra pennies, however for that kind of money you can get a decent 5w-40 synthetic such as the Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40 or the Fuchs Titan Supersyn 5w-40 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

 

Cheers

 

Guy

[Philmo 0]

10w-40 semi or better 5w-40 synthetic for those frosty mornings. Magnatec is a semi synthetic and not really worht the extra pennies, however for that kind of money you can get a decent 5w-40 synthetic such as the Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40 or the Fuchs Titan Supersyn 5w-40 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

Hi Guy

I understand the need to get the oil round quickly from a cold winter start, but most of us [i think?] warm them up gently and give wellie at temps over 80 deg or thereabouts, by which time the viscosity is well down.

How crucial is the cst value @ 100 deg to achieving appropriate lubrication?

I'm no tribologist - but I'd be amazed if there were not a little more to it than viscosity.

Thanks

Phil

[dr_mat 0]

Further, there's a reason the manual says to not just idle the engine until it warms up from cold - which is the best way to take years off the engine's life. It recommends you pull off and drive normally (though not using the full rev range and avoiding full throttle). This is more because the engine essentially doesn't FIT together when everything's cold so you need a good amount of oil pressure (not to mention sheer physical inertia) to stop the pistons slopping around in the bores and the valves slopping around in their guides.

 

Annoyingly, in this god-forsaken traffic mad country it's almost impossible to pull off and "drive normally" if you live anywhere near a town ...

[Philmo 0]

Well yes - I guess a lot of us have read about the wisdom of warming up gently on the move - but I'm curious as to the lubrication situation once the oil has reached 80 deg +, and it's in the 10 to 20 cst range.

eg Is there a cst value below which proper lubrication is reduced?

[i'm talking here of what goes on between the rolling/rubbing surfaces, rather than the natural leakage to the sump from crank bearings etc which is clearly dependent on design tolerances, extent of wear etc]