VR6Joni 0 Posted March 1, 2009 Thought I'd start a thread for my minor modifications :D I put my car in the garage this week and started work on it. These are a few of the parts that will be going on. SP263 cams and APR's. Rotrex SP30-94 and mounting bracket! Estimated peak boost around 14psi. A few other bits under my bed include head spacer, forge diverter valve, Innovate LC-1 and larger injectors (just petrol at the moment). Head is now almost ready to be removed for rebuild (cam followers, uprated springs and seals to be fitted) I'm gonna clean everything up while its off too, including polishing inlet manifold and hopefully giving the charger a little polish. Due to the LPG system I've got big plans for the management system which I think may surprise a few people. As I'm an electronic design engineer, it will be a one off. That's all I can tell you for now. I'm having a day off today, so more updates should be on here later in the week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KADVR6 0 Posted March 1, 2009 thats gonna be nice when its all done :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VAG-hag 0 Posted March 1, 2009 It begins! :D Nice one Dude!! Really need to get my ass in gear & come get those stickers :sleeping: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leonard 0 Posted March 1, 2009 He he, wondered when you would get a build thread up. Look forward to seeing the build and of course the finished results! Should be awesome! 8) Was going to post on the wheel thread but here seems more apt :grin: Are you planning on fitting a LSD? Probably be money better spent than wider wheels or bigger tyres even? Matt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted March 1, 2009 I am on a very sharp watch out for LSD, cos gearbox removal is a pain in the ass, and would rather not do it twice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philuk 0 Posted March 1, 2009 very cool mate, looking forward to seeing how this goes on! keep pics coming Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted March 16, 2009 Just a few more pictures. Unfortunately a bit of corrosion on this, a bit of liquid metal should sort that. Touch of carbon build up to be cleaned off. Almost tempted to put this on wall instead of car. Block looks in good condition, should be good for a bit of extra boost. Mounting bracket for charger doesn't fit so I'll have to slot one of the holes which is rather annoying :shrug: , a bit of the head also needs grinding off for tensioner pulley (same old story with the rotrex installs). Just waiting on valve springs at the moment, then its all going back together. :D As for engine management I've been designing the electronics in my spare time, I've customised it for the VR6 engine and my LPG setup. Currently I have inputs for: Manifold air temperature. Manifold air pressure. Throttle position sensor. Cam TDC sensor. Crank position sensor. Coolant temperature. 2 x knock sensors. 2 x exhaust temperature sensors. Fuel pressure sensor. Air fuel ratio. (Lambda) And outputs for: 6 x petrol injector (current controlled) 6 x LPG injector (current controlled) 1 x ISV PWM output. 1 x PWM boost control output. Can anyone see anything I've missed, or any other Inputs/Outputs that would be useful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted April 22, 2009 It's been a little quiet on this front lately. So thought I'd post up a little update. I lost a little motivation at one point as some parts weren't as easily available as I hoped. Anyway it's moving well again now, head rebuilt with new springs, valve seals, followers and SP263 cams fitted. ARP hardware with head spacer fitted (someone please tell me these were 100% necessary :shrug: ). Realised a 3rd machining modification is required to the rotrex bracket to make it fit correctly (beginning to take the pi$$ now). The boost pipework is on order now so should be able to fire it up soon. Charge cooling is now the subject of the day, anyone know where to get heavy guage wire for moving battery? I have some hardware for my management system now but is just gonna be for process monitoring at first (test drive). I have noticed my crank trigger wheel missing tooth is ~90 degrees off TDC, can someone just confirm this for me :scratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CoxyLaad 0 Posted April 23, 2009 yes i think thats right. Good plans dude! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 23, 2009 It's been a little quiet on this front lately. So thought I'd post up a little update. I lost a little motivation at one point as parts some parts weren't as easily available as I hoped. Good stuff, I missed this thread. Ver interested in it due to you making your own ECU :shock: Awesome stuff :D Your engine has been running sweet as a nut, one of the best I've seen. How long's it been running LPG? Since it's a gas to begin with, it tolerates cylinder imbalance a lot better than petrol injector mist. ARP hardware with head spacer fitted (someone please tell me these were 100% necessary :shrug: ). Depends on the boost. Up to 10psi I'd say not necessary. The VR6 pistons are pretty strong, loads of meat above the first ring land and they have a good squish bowl, perfect for boost :D anyone know where to get heavy guage wire for moving battery? Any of the online car audio places mate. I'd use 0 gauge and earth to one of the seat belt anchors, again with 0 guage. My battery is under the rear arm rest and I get the same voltage at the engine side of the loom as I see directly at the battery posts. I have noticed my crank trigger wheel missing tooth is ~90 degrees off TDC, can someone just confirm this for me :scratch: This info should help. 60-2 trigger wheel, sensor position is 78 deg BTDC, firing tooth on Startup = 2. Cam sensor injection angle (end of injection) = 53 degrees Cam sensor position = 90 degrees Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leonard 0 Posted April 23, 2009 I cant help with the technical side, but I will get my poms poms out :grin: Keep up the good work. It is an interesting build/read Matt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philmo 0 Posted April 23, 2009 Nice one Joni - one to watch! I note your 6 branch doesn't boast a 2 bolt to 3 bolt articulated flange - if it's a Raceland - I've found you can get these [took quite a few months to get there mind] from a very friendly, English speaking guy, Olivier at Raceland [[email protected]]. Is that a heat isolating inlet gasket I see under the 6B? If so, may I ask where you sourced it & how much? Keep up the good stuff. :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted April 23, 2009 It's been a little quiet on this front lately. So thought I'd post up a little update. I lost a little motivation at one point as parts some parts weren't as easily available as I hoped. Good stuff, I missed this thread. Ver interested in it due to you making your own ECU :shock: Awesome stuff :D Your engine has been running sweet as a nut, one of the best I've seen. How long's it been running LPG? Since it's a gas to begin with, it tolerates cylinder imbalance a lot better than petrol injector mist. ARP hardware with head spacer fitted (someone please tell me these were 100% necessary :shrug: ). Depends on the boost. Up to 10psi I'd say not necessary. The VR6 pistons are pretty strong, loads of meat above the first ring land and they have a good squish bowl, perfect for boost :D anyone know where to get heavy guage wire for moving battery? Any of the online car audio places mate. I'd use 0 gauge and earth to one of the seat belt anchors, again with 0 guage. My battery is under the rear arm rest and I get the same voltage at the engine side of the loom as I see directly at the battery posts. I have noticed my crank trigger wheel missing tooth is ~90 degrees off TDC, can someone just confirm this for me :scratch: This info should help. 60-2 trigger wheel, sensor position is 78 deg BTDC, firing tooth on Startup = 2. Cam sensor injection angle (end of injection) = 53 degrees Cam sensor position = 90 degrees Cheers for the info Kev, V. Useful. Is that a heat isolating inlet gasket I see under the 6B? If so, may I ask where you sourced it & how much? Yes it is, luckily I got it on the cheap from my brother along with the 6 branch who had big plans for his VR6, however now he's bought himself a 6 pot A3. I think he got it from awsome. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted April 23, 2009 Can anyone enlighten me with the torque settings for the cam shell retaining nuts and the cam sprocket bolt. I'd guess the sprocket bolt is about 5000Nm as I guess that's roughly what it took to remove it. Cheers in advance anyone!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted April 23, 2009 I think the nuts for the camshaft bearing caps are 20nm and the camshaft sprocket is 100nm. Off the top of my head! Might be worth checking I never torque the camshaft nuts up myself, just do them tight. And the sprocket is a little bugger isn't it.... I've had one cam visibly twisting in the vice as I tried to undo it! Edit... Smugness Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted April 23, 2009 I think the nuts for the camshaft bearing caps are 20nm and the camshaft sprocket is 100nm. Off the top of my head! Might be worth checking I never torque the camshaft nuts up myself, just do them tight. And the sprocket is a little bugger isn't it.... I've had one cam visibly twisting in the vice as I tried to undo it! Edit... Smugness Cheers, it wouldn't surprise me if my old ones are now twisted. Strong bar and a scaffold pole were required along with me and a mate swinging on them. Tiiiiiiiiiight! is and understatement. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 24, 2009 It's the rear cam with the cam sensor trigger on it that needs the 6 foot breaker bar action. The front one will pop off no worries. One VR I was working on, we had to take the rear cam to a tyre/exhaust place to use their airgun on it, and that struggled aswell! Typical VW, a tiny little 15mm head bolt done up to wheel bolt torque :cuckoo: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
herisites 0 Posted April 24, 2009 It's the rear cam with the cam sensor trigger on it that needs the 6 foot breaker bar action. The front one will pop off no worries. One VR I was working on, we had to take the rear cam to a tyre/exhaust place to use their airgun on it, and that struggled aswell! Typical VW, a tiny little 15mm head bolt done up to wheel bolt torque :cuckoo: Ahh yes the b@stard cam bolt, that sure was on tight, I thought the cam was going to snap when the garage were having a go :shock: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted April 26, 2009 It's the rear cam with the cam sensor trigger on it that needs the 6 foot breaker bar action. The front one will pop off no worries. One VR I was working on, we had to take the rear cam to a tyre/exhaust place to use their airgun on it, and that struggled aswell! Typical VW, a tiny little 15mm head bolt done up to wheel bolt torque :cuckoo: Exactly what I found. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted April 26, 2009 Some nice new pictures. Some ARP goodness, I will be making sure I get my money's worth out of these, I.e. some nice levels of boost. LPG injectors in case anyone was wondering what they look like. New INA followers, do they now coat them with a harder surface finish?? or were my old ones polished from running???? :scratch: SP263 cam's in, am I the first from the last GB? And finally on with my question, does this cam offset look the same as anyone else's with a head spacer??? This is at TDC, one tooth either way and they are a county mile off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blenkj 0 Posted April 26, 2009 looking good. when u hoping to b finished by. did u injoy the meet at brownlow. i will send you a msg when we plan another. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted April 26, 2009 Yeah, me and the mates enjoyed it. I woke up freezing though, so had to run. To my nice warm bed. Mmmmm :sleeping: I recon I might be able to fire it up next weekend on the standard management. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted April 27, 2009 Can anyone confirm the above is what the cam offset with a head spacer should look like????? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted April 27, 2009 Can anyone confirm the above is what the cam offset with a head spacer should look like????? I've never fitted a spacer, but they are a lot less than 1 tooth out, aren't they? I've seen some that are miles off due to stretched chains, and they've run really well... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Joni 0 Posted April 30, 2009 Bit of boost pipework Unfortunately broke the vacuum one way valve trying to remove the blanking cap, Doh! Anyone rerouted the vacuum hose cos it seems to go the long way around? And is the vacuum hose supposed to be like glass, think it may have hardened over the years. :roll: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites