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andycowuk

Ultimate enbarrasment, and 16v (ina mk1)engine question

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I had to get towed home tonight in by a ford... :shock: :oops:

how bad is that, hmmmmmm those tastey words of mine! :oops:

 

Anyway...the 16v engine is actually in the scirroco, but sinse u guys will prob be more familiar with the mk1, I put that in the title!

 

I found today, that the rotor arm has been rubbing away at the contacts in the cap, and as of 2.40pm today, there was not enough of two of them for the car to run! Those of you (Henny?) who have put a 16v in a mk1 will have encountered the prob of the rotar and the brake servo/master cylinder - know what i mean?

 

Sinse I never put it there, I dont know what to replace it with. Do you know?

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Andrew,

 

If you get no answer from the forum, just take it down to your local lucas dealer and ask to go through their book. A welsh friend of mine did exactly the same thing on his MK1 convertible.

 

jim

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I have built a mk1 16V and I had a mk2 master cylinder and servo. There are no clearance issues with this setup and the std dissy cap.

 

Gavin

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Use a Peugeot 205 1.1 dizzy cap... It's a standard fit, but is side exit so clears the master cylinder with no problems... 8)

 

don't ask how long it took me to find that out when I built my MKI 16V! :? :roll: :lol:

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He he, yeah Talbot Horizon ones were popular when I did the conversion but I didn't want non-standard stuff on my conversion, so did as Gav did and used a MK2 16v MC , servo and filler bottle. All you have to do then is rig up a couple of T pieces to split the 16V's MC output into 4.

 

Kev

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I went with a totally different route to the normal 16V conversion...

 

I junked all of the electronic part of the KE jet-tronic and slung a Seat Ibiza 1.5 dizzy on instead! :? I then got this re-weighted so that the advance curve was about right for the car/engine and just had the 16V running with the standard MKI injection system using the 16v metering head and injectors...

 

Oh, and that silly Weber 63mm single choke throttle body I had helped too! :lol:

 

A normal cap fitted on mine, but it was easier to use the pug one... :wink:

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The car has a 16v MC and servo, but on the rocco, the MC is too close to the bonnet for the 16v resivoir, so there is some vulva resivoir there instead - it is more flat, so gives less room. There is no way a standard cap would go on. The pug one will hopefully do the trick!

 

Will need to find out why the rotor was hitting the cap 1st!

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The car has a 16v MC and servo, but on the rocco, the MC is too close to the bonnet for the 16v resivoir, so there is some vulva resivoir there instead - it is more flat, so gives less room. There is no way a standard cap would go on. The pug one will hopefully do the trick!

 

Will need to find out why the rotor was hitting the cap 1st!

 

If the rotor was actually HITTING the cap, then it sounds like the bearings in the dizzy have gone... :shock:

 

The contacts on a dizzy cap do wear down with ages due to the ark of the spark across the small gap between the rotor arm's terminal and the contacts on the cap... This is normal and not a lot to be worried about unless it's done it over a very short period of time... :?

 

The 1.1 205 cap should help with the clearance issues as it's only about 2/3 the length of a normal cap and then doesn't have the leads on top of that length 'cos it's side exit.... 8)

 

Good luck! 8)

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I'll take a pic of it after x-mas (i'm going up north tomorrow untill 28th).

 

The four contacts inside the cap are two top and two bottom (as it sits on the distributer) the bottom two are almost gone, the top two are fine! Really strange.

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Sounds like the the rotor arm is running off-centre. Could be a worn distributor.

 

Kev

 

yeah, we had an hour long MSN session about this last night, and, after agueing for ages, we realised that we were arguing the same point, just looking from different angles! :roll: :oops: :lol:

 

We're both pretty sure that the bearings in the dizzy are knackered making the rotor arm run not true so making the wear as described... 8)

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Right....photo of problem taken....this is kind relevant to all, sinse the same thing could happen to any 16v engine......

 

The only thing that still seems od, is that there is not play in the rotor shaft.

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I'm beginning to think that this may have just been a dodgy cap... I can't grasp how the rotor arm could do that to a cap if it wasn'd dodgy... :?

 

You've got me there... I've no ideas...

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I am in no way as experienced in these things as most of you guys but, if my memory serves me correctly, when I last changed a cap on a valver I too thought that 2 of the contacts had been worn away. The thing is, when I obtained a replacement it too apeared the same. I think it is the way they are made. In the first picture you can see that 2 contacts have cutouts behind them and 2 not. I think that it is this that makes them appear worn?

 

Just an optical illusion IMHO.

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On closer inspection of the image It looks like the rotor arm is high? Is it that the top of the rotor arm is hitting the 2 front terminals? The early 16v engines had the rotor glued to the driveshaft. Was this not to prevent this?

 

Beat me up when you see me if I am talking rubbish!!!

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thats actually a really good point! I will look at the new one to see but I am certain you could be right about the severity of the wearing being an illusion. Obviously there is still a prob, which need repaired.

 

well done - we were looking too far into this! You could have just explained the odd look!!

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