Absolutely clueless!! Help me spend £150ish

[bananawhip 0]

Right here's the challenge, I have just bought some Audioscape pods from the recent eBay listing, I am really not massively bothered by audio as I'm a bit more of an engine man but mine is currently an absolute joke!

 

Which speakers would you buy if you were looking to replace dash, door (16.5's) and rears, 100% can't be bothered to fit an amp, crossovers, rewire stuff, cut stuff up, etc etc I know it's the way to go but I just want it sounding nicer then it does now.

I'm thinking...

 

Dash, Infinity 4022i 10cm...would these fit, wire in easy?

 

Audioscape pods, Infinity 6522i's

 

Rears, JBL GTO 6x4's, I'm not completely against som Infinity 9623i 6x9's though if they would help.

 

Would these all work together? No splicing wires etc

 

I've done loads or searching but I just want someone who knows what they're talking about to help me out, I'm a few days away from buying it and I don't know my componants from my coaxiels so I think some costly mistakes are on the horizon

 

:help: :help: :help: :help: :help:

[dinkus 10]

If you really can't be that bothered with doing too much, I'd be inclined to just upgrade the fronts and leave the rears as-is. Changing the standard sized rear speakers doesn't make a huge difference.

 

Up-front, I'd go for a set of matched components like these http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/rainbow ... -3852.html

 

You get a 6.25" (hehe not 16.25! :)) driver for the Audioscape door pod, a crossover that you can bury in the dash somewhere and a tweeter that will fit into the original tweeter holder (with some light dremmeling... although bear in mind that you junk the original tweeter to do this). That'll give you the best sound without spending uber bucks.

 

Oh and if you're using the standard wiring, you'll need to do a bit of re-routing to get the crossover in place.

 

The crossover has 3 pairs of connections

1. Input from the head unit

2. Output for the tweeter

3. Output for the door speaker

 

The car has the following

1. Wire from the head unit to the tweeter

1. From the tweeter to the door

 

The reason for this is the original tweeter has a little capacitor on the bottom of it that acts as a very crude crossover. So if you want to replace the original tweeter and crossover for a proper one, you need to get these bits going...

 

There are 2 connectors on the bottom of the tweeter - one from the head unit, one that goes to the door speaker.

 

If you're taking out the tweeter, you want to extend (stick pins in the connector/splice into the wire) the wire that comes from the head unit to wherever your crossover is going to be. You've not got your input to the crossover.

 

The new Rainbow tweeters have a wire already attached to them that needs to connect into the tweeter output of the crossover, so that should be fairly easy.

 

Now you need to get signal from the crossover to the door.

 

You can either run a wire from the crossover back to the plug by the tweeter that goes to the door (easiest) or if you have a strong desire to swear a lot - run a speaker wire from the crossover through the door hinge trunking and into the door.

 

Bear in mind that the VAG connectors for the standard speakers won't fit onto any of the new speakers you buy, so you'll need to get some spades for those, whatever you do.

 

I'd be inclined to buy a set of front components, work out what wiring and connectors you need, and put them in.

 

Give it a listen and see what you think - you may find that the bottom end is still lacking somewhat, in which case it's time to hunt for a sub. The easiest option for that is something like an Infinity Basslink that has the sub and amp all in one box... but you still need to run RCAs and power to the boot.

 

...and if you're going to be running RCAs and power to the boot, why not run some speaker wires from the boot back to your crossovers too... even if you don't put the amp in straight away, it's then an easy option in the future.

 

I'd also make sure you run something like a 4AWG power cable - you might not need it for what you put in initially, but that then gives you the option of swapping things out without having to re-run the power cable.

[bananawhip 0]

Thanks for the reply Dinkus it really is appreciated.

 

I was dreading a reply that told me to do anything like that but you've made it sound really simple, I'm much more comfortable bolting, riviting, grinding, and drilling stuff rather then this wiring business but after your post I'm sure I can't go far wrong.

 

Those Rainbows look well worth the money too, I'll get on the case and report back

 

Thanks again :clap:

[dinkus 10]

I have come to loathe anything that involves trim as it invariably ends up with me swearing a lot and skinned knuckles :lol:

 

But it's usually worth it once you get everything back together and it all sounds much nicer than it did when you started :)

[KipVR 1]

Is it possible to get a small amp under the seat?

[colinstubbs 0]

Is it possible to get a small amp under the seat?

 

I wouldn't think so there's very little clearance.

 

I've got one in the passenger footwell, raised the floor at little and tucked the carpet round the edges, there's that much room no-one has ever noticed or at least commented.

 

Even with the seat fully forward you don't notice and with mats fitted the carpet tuck doesn't really show.

 

It's never overheated and wiring it is a doddle cos there's a large gommet in the middle of the footwell in the bulkhead that you can run you cables from the battery straight through :clap:

[dinkus 10]

Not a chance in hell if you've got Recaros though - all the motors and stuff take up nearly all that space...