Is my thinking right with blowing window fuse???

[Leonard 0]

Ok had intermittent blowing fuse on electric windows for a while now. Has always tended to fix itself though until now.

 

Had both windows right down the oher day and then got out and hit full closure button on the alarm and windows went up fine. Now the fuse has blown again but it is constantly doing it ie I cannot even put a new fuse in as its sparking, so something must be grounding out somewhere.

 

Now if I unplug the window switch, mirror switch, motor switch both sides it still does it. So am I right in thinking the short must be in the wiring from the door to the dash? Or is it worth me taking the back seats out and rear quarter panel off to check the window control module :confused4:

 

I have checked all the obvious wiring and come up with nothing. Im all ready to get an auto leccy in to have a look but Im not sure there is anymore that he can do that I havent already done....

 

Any help or pointers would be great, cos I feel a bit lost at the moment!

 

And yes I have scoured the search facility and tried many of the things suggested previously :wink:

 

Cheers

 

Matt

[KIPVW 0]

Hi Matt,

 

I dont think i mentioned to you in my pm about why mine kept blowing as well as the pump for the door pin i also had some chaffing in the fuse box area.

 

Bear with me here & i'll try to explain best i can, right once the lower shelf is removed and then you can see the white plastic retaining prong to the left of the fuse box, just make sure that ALL the wires pass through the bracket holding the fuse box in place.

 

The bracket looks like this shape as you look directly at it from the front, |''''''''''''''''''''''''| and the fuse box sits inside the space of the 2 outer arms!

 

Well those outer arms are chamfered in a manor that they splay/curve outwards as they finish (nearer the bulk head) they are like this to avoid any wires being rubbed through as would be the case if they only had flat edges like the front of the arms.

 

Several wires on mine had at some point been moved to outside the right hand arm, thus causing a very sharp edge cutting into the wire! it was almost an inch of insulation rubbed off it.

 

So definately check all wires pass through it, if not simply remove the white prong on the right and wiggle the fuse box till it pops out of the arms then simply relocate any wires to inside the arms!

 

 

Sorry if it sounds hard to understand but if you have problems with it drop me a pm with a number & i'll call you to discuss :wave:

 

Hope that helps!

 

Sympathy as always, i know how it is :lol:

[Leonard 0]

Nice one mate back into the baking hot sun i go armed with yet more knowledge. Mad dogs and Corrado owners and all that :grin:

 

Cheers bud

 

Matt :salute:

[Leonard 0]

Wel I am officially a plonker :grin:

 

After ripping my car to bits I looked again at the door jam with a big fat torch this time and in the daylight this time :roll: what did I find two wires completely cut through and two more chaffed to pieces :clap:

 

So hopefully this is my electric window and central locking problem all rolled into one wirey mess. Gonna call an auto leccy tomorrow and get them to come and fix it.

 

Oh and Kip I dont think ANY of my wires are where they are supposed to be under the dash :lol: So will get him to tidy those up as well :wink:

 

Cheers for your help. Glad I hadnt ripped the rear seats out yet LOL

 

Matt

[KIPVW 0]

yeah a hot one out there today 8) do make sure to look at all the wires while you're down there too! a torch may be a wise move also :wink:

[Leonard 0]

yeah a hot one out there today 8) do make sure to look at all the wires while you're down there too! a torch may be a wise move also :wink:

 

I was only in it for 2 minutes LOL I refer you to the post above :wink:

[KIPVW 0]

:lol: same time posting there mate! Result :clap: that has to be it me thinks!

 

As said, make sure all wires pass in between the brackets! you'll know what i mean about how sharp they are if you feel them :norty:

[Leonard 0]

:lol: same time posting there mate! Result :clap: that has to be it me thinks!

 

As said, make sure all wires pass in between the brackets! you'll know what i mean about how sharp they are if you feel them :norty:

 

I think I know what you mean. But looking at mine I dont think one of my wires pass through the brackets :lol: So I am still a little unsure as to wether I am understanding you correctly. I will take a pic later and post it if you dont mind having a look?

 

Matt

[fla 9]

i am struggling with locating a dead short in the same elec windows/heated nozzle/reverse lights circuit. As soon as the ignition is turned on, fue 14 blows (15A). It occasionally operated for a few minutes when i managed to lower the d/s window, after which it promptly blew. This led me to think that there was a short in the window mech against the loom coming in to the door. Checked this and yes there was a worn section of cable, but impossible to get a soldering iron to it. I straightened the cable as much as possible and rewrapped it with tape - not ideal. However, the full closure worked with the blown fuse, closing the window.

didnt solve it. So i've tried the following all without success:

 

- remove connector fromm gearbox and reverse light bulbs (in tailgate), checked gearbox connector for continuity between the two wires and there is none (so i assume this circuit is ok?)

- remove window control module (all three connectors), disconnect window from d/s

- disconnect heated washer jets

 

Now i've removed the undertrays, clocks & glovebox with the fuse panel also loose, to try and isolate the circuit. RW1 and i were trying different options last week but also without success.

 

As a question, if you put an ohmmeter across the brown and black to the washer jets, should this give continuity or not? Due to the sheath colours i assume they are both -ve although surely one should be +ve? Both seem to go to ground and he cable doesnt seem to be damaged anywhere up to the point where it goes into the car behind the ecu. Where do these wires go physically and where do they join the fusebox?

 

Incidentally, i put in a 20A fuse as a test and it too blew immediately, so it should be fairly visible to see surely?

 

Look forward to suggestions

[fla 9]

continuing from above, how can the heated washer jets cable be isolated from the fusebox end?