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Typhy

help water temp

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i drove to ripon and a few other places on sunday about 40 mins journey time there. car wasnt sat long before we set off home again, on the way home was stuck in alot of traffic so car was stood for a long time. and noticed water temp was getting higher and higher, got to about 110 and after abit the light started flashing. turned off for 5 mins and back on still flashed ( obviously ti wont cool down that quick) then i turned off at eash set of lights i got to, after 2 sets of lights the light just stopped but the water temp was going from 70 to 110 and then 70 and back and forth?

 

any ideas what this could be or has it jsut boiled dry?? any way no probs 2day so i dont no

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The flashing light is an indication of a lack of water, not high temperatures. It could just be faulty wiring, but in any case do not drive the car if the light has been flashing without also checking the level of water in the expansion tank. If there is no water in the tank itself you probably have a leak which needs to be fixed.

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The flashing light is an indication of a lack of water, not high temperatures.

 

 

The light will flash if the temp gets too high, and/or if the level drops too low.

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If the temp appears normal when driving at a steady pace, and therefore cooled by the wind, but goes up when you are stuck in traffic then you should concentrate on checking the fan.

 

If the coolant is at the correct level and appears to be circulating correctly (both rad hoses are hot, heater blows hot air) then you can use the heater to aid cooling if you have to drive the car before the problem is fixed. After all, it's just a small radiator and fan but inside the car.

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The flashing light is an indication of a lack of water, not high temperatures.

The light will flash if the temp gets too high, and/or if the level drops too low.

Right, but it shouldn't be flashing at 110, which is toasty but not extreme (I'm assuming this is a VR6).

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No it shouldn't, I was just making it clear to anyone who might this thread in the future, that the light is an indicator of over heating, because you'd said that it wasn't :)

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Once again, in yet another "vr6 coolant temp" thread, I'd like to point out that if your temp guage EVER reaches 110 then SOMETHING IS WRONG. Even in 30 degree summers, on a rolling road thrashing the crap out of the engine in stationary air, it should NEVER go much over 100 degrees.

 

You most likely have a fan control unit failure.

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long shot but i too have had this problem but on my 9A, temp guage shoots up tom 110 and the light starts to flash, i checked the fan was working and there was plenty water and found everything ok, a few days later i had the same problem, turned on the healights and the water temp went back down to 70 and the light went out, solution...........new headlight switch, mine was caused by a fault on the dash light dimmer control, long shot but if all else fails

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long shot but i too have had this problem but on my 9A, temp guage shoots up tom 110 and the light starts to flash, i checked the fan was working and there was plenty water and found everything ok, a few days later i had the same problem, turned on the healights and the water temp went back down to 70 and the light went out, solution...........new headlight switch, mine was caused by a fault on the dash light dimmer control, long shot but if all else fails

 

Good old VW electrics for you :)

 

I had a 1989 Polo which used to try and communicate via morse code and the coolant light. If you were lucky the oil pressure buzzer would go off in time with the light (until you hit the dashboard and all would go silent).

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Good old VW electrics for you :)

 

I had a 1989 Polo which used to try and communicate via morse code and the coolant light. If you were lucky the oil pressure buzzer would go off in time with the light (until you hit the dashboard and all would go silent).

 

 

If in doubt, whack it, I had an old polo that did much the same :lol:

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Back on topic though, maybe I should replace my dodgy headlight switch (that you have to force onto full) and perhaps my fan might start working again and/or I may start getting a more stable temp reading.

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Back on topic though, maybe I should replace my dodgy headlight switch (that you have to force onto full) and perhaps my fan might start working again and/or I may start getting a more stable temp reading.

 

has to be worth a try

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