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davidwort

Which bolts can I replace with stainless

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I understand that HT (High Tension) steel bolts shouldn't be replaced with stainless steel bolts on the car.

So which bolts are considered HT?

Presumably ones like the hubs to suspension legs, but what about ones like the fairly beefy M10 bumper mounting bolts?

I've a lot of rusty nuts and bolts on the car and buying stainless assortments are a whole lot cheaper than buying individual bolts from VAG.

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front bumper ones also hold up the front x member thingy ..id prob not do that

 

just avoid stuff like brakes ,suspension , engine mounts ...anything that might kill you if it snaps lol

 

ive done most of the cosmetic stuff in my engine bay..used these people for most of it

 

http://www.stagonset.co.uk/fasteners?du ... 5051_12646

 

Handy link, nice one :salute:

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oh and apprently you can get high tensile stuff in stainless ...dont know where , but might be a option if you want all SS

 

P.S once you do a few bits its addictive and you'l spend £££ doing every last screw you can find

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P.S once you do a few bits its addictive and you'l spend £££ doing every last screw you can find

:lol: I've already started a list of bolts and sizes, reading every page of ETKA

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notice that link i posted...has the correct style flange nuts

 

they even have the little screws for the tb switches and voltage reg etc

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notice that link i posted...has the correct style flange nuts and flange bolts , gota do it right

 

they even have the little screws for the tb switches and voltage reg etc

 

ah cool, didn't see they did the flange bolts, they seem quite difficult to source generally. I need M10 flange bolts for the rear bumper fixings, at the moment all I could get was plain stainless M10 bolts from Screwfix and M10 zinc plated washers from B&Q as screwfix had no stainless washers in stock, will be a temp fixing until I get the right ones :salute:

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find a local fastener place and ask them for them, as long as you know what sizes your after they normally give you them for free.

 

i used to work at a place in leics and we gave away shed loads with the theory that we dropped more on the floor than we were giving away.

 

id also suggest you get A4 rather than A2

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there are two grades of stainless a2 and a4.

 

A2 are generally used and are weaker than 8.8 (normal hi-ten grade)

 

a4 is about the same as 8.8.

 

Brakes/suspension etc usually use 12.9 - so stick with steel!

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notice that link i posted...has the correct style flange nuts and flange bolts , gota do it right

 

they even have the little screws for the tb switches and voltage reg etc

 

ah cool, didn't see they did the flange bolts, they seem quite difficult to source generally.

 

Don't believe everything you hear, VW still sell the flange bolts (obviously not in stainless) even though quite a few people have reported on here that they've been discontinued.

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There are three grades infact. A6 too. These refer to resistance as far as im aware, a6 is used mainly for boats, diving equipment etc.

 

A4 will be spot on for use on a car.

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Guys, I'm just in the process of sorting out my rear number plate light and I want to replace the 3 bolts with stainless but am having trouble working out what to buy. In ETKA it says ST3 9X13-F would these be ok?

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Guys, I'm just in the process of sorting out my rear number plate light and I want to replace the 3 bolts with stainless but am having trouble working out what to buy. In ETKA it says ST3 9X13-F would these be ok?

no, you need self tapping screws for the number plate light cover, I've got some alloy ones I picked up from somewhere, but I guess stainless would be ideal

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