Phil K 0 Posted January 21, 2004 Got the C bak from the garage last night with new metering head, new cat, new MOT and new problem... :mad: Took it out for a quick spin to discover that the oil light / buzzer intermitantly comes on and stays on until you give the engine a bit of a rev with the clutch down... Before the metering head and cat were done the garage had previously fitted a new oil pump and cooler as I was having high oil pressure problems (which are now sorted - they say / I hope) Does anyone have any ideas? I'm hoping it isn't pressure problems and might just be faulty sensors which I plan to replace at the weekend - does anyone know where I'll find these in the engine and what part numbers they are? Cheers Chaps Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KARMANN 0 Posted January 22, 2004 Sounds like ur pressure switch thers two on the filter housing.Disconect the wire from either one or the other and switch the car on,Giv it some revs,if the buzzer doesnt come on it needs replacing.But if the buzzer does come on itl be the other one that needs replacing! savey? Happened on mine twice,easiest way to check it.Let me know how u get on-part numbers are on them-need good eyes though.Try scrapys for new ones most vws have the same switches! hope it works out ok Fraser Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted January 22, 2004 Try scrapys for new ones most vws have the same switches! New oil pressure switches are under £10 from VAG. IMHO it's not worth fitting second hand sensors as they are just as likely to fail/be faulty... :roll: Also, there are about 8 different pressure senders for VAG cars that all have different pressure sensitivity ratings, so you really do need to get the correct ones. I'd agree that it's likely to be a sensor fault, although it's also worth checking the wires and connectors on to the sensors as they can oxidise (go green!) and cause errors with the readings they give thus setting off the buzzer... :? Hope this helps. 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted January 22, 2004 Thanks a lot guys - will be looking at this on saturday so will let you know how I get on... Phil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted January 24, 2004 Well I've put new sensors on it and it's made no difference aaaggghhh!!! :mad: The problems only start once the engine is up to temperature... as the revs drop down past 3K the light and buzzer come on they then stay on untill the revs reach 3 / 3.5K and then go off... I assume from what I'm told this will be the low pressure sensor. This is really p1ss1ng me off as it's now going to be out of action for another week untill I can get someone to have a look at it... one thing I noticed when I was changing the sensors was that the yellow wire that goes to the low pressure sensor has 2 wires - one goes on the sensor and the other is folded back with a white clip on it and doesn't connect to anything - could this have anything to do with it? Not knowing the 16V engine and not having done any of the previous work myself I don't know if this was ever connected in the first place? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted January 24, 2004 Thinking about it - it seems like I've got 2 options, take it to VW and have them plug in diagnostics to look for problems - would it show pressure problems? or my other option is to take it back to the garage that did the oil pump and cooler and get them to sort it... trouble with these guys is they had my car for bloody ages last time and I'm reluctant to let them near it again after all the problems I've had so far... What do you guys think? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted January 26, 2004 The wire that is tied back is for an oil pressure sender. So that is not your problem. I doubt if the diagnostics will be connected to the oil pressure sensors. The low pressure switch turns off the light and the high pressure switch(1.8BAR) is the one that triggers the buzzer and warning light. Usually the only way to get the buzzer to clear, is by turning the ign off and on again. Sorry but I cannot remember which colour wire goes to which switch. I think the blue/black should go to the rear 1.8 BAR switch. Just out of curiosity, what were your original oil pressure problem symptoms? It is almost as if the wires are connected backwards........ Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted January 27, 2004 The problems started with oil p1ss1ng out from where the oil filter joins the oil cooler... to start with I thought it may just have been a poor fitting filter so changed it and cleaned up the mess in my car park - started it and let it run for 10 minutes with no probs. Went back a few days later started it and it dumped its oil again just after starting it.... anyway to keep it short it went in to the garage, they changed the oil cooler and then it dumped its oil on them, so they changed the pump too - no more pressure problems (well not losing any oil at least!) I then had it back for a week and drove it problem free and then had to send it in for an MOT - it failed on emmisions - was told that the metering head was leaking so needed a new one. I wasn't that keen to buy a new one for £400 so got one from a scrappy for £50, it then failed its re-test again on emmisions and this time they said it needed a new cat - £150 later and it's passed! I get it back to find it's still f**ked. In 7 months of ownership I've been able to drive it for 3 months and that's the story up to here.... This car is only on 75K with a full service history and is very tidy - just goes to show that you can't even trust the basic princibles when buying used cars.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
exturbo2003 0 Posted January 27, 2004 you need to get a oil pressure tester on it to see whats happening. two choices a main dealer with a full report and if the previous garage is at fault then take up the bill with them, should be helpfull if trading standards are threatened if needed :wink: will check wireing diagrams tomorrow at work for you and let you know at lunch time, 1-2 sounds like you need a new garage. ps oil testers are about 125 if you wanna buy one Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60BoyRacer 0 Posted January 27, 2004 It might be the oil pump. I had this problem early last year, my girlfriend was driving the car and the buzzer came on as soon as the oil pressure gauge dropped below 2 bar, the buzzer would sound. If she reved the car to 2000rpm+ it would stop. I too thought this was just the switch, but later that day, after deaf ears had had the radio on all day and too loud, I got in the car to the tune of 'nails in a tin can' sound, just micro seconds before the engine decided to seize!!!, very expensive on a G60!. There is a pressure regulator on the pump, My mate is a mechanic at VW, and he said that mine was F****d, Its a bit of messing arround changing the pump, but less than £50 from GSF. Trust me its better than spending £500+, do you have any ideas how tough it is to get hold of G60 pistons and Conrods!!!!!!! it took me more than 3 months. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
20v turbo 0 Posted January 28, 2004 i know exactly how your feeling m8 :( ,your in the right place to get it sorted on here :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted January 28, 2004 Cheers chaps Recon I'll get pressure tested seeing as it's not the wiring or the sensors it's gotta be more serious - and I'd have to be pretty dumb to think it wasn't a serious problem after everything thats happened so far!!! LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aposegil 0 Posted January 28, 2004 mate hang in there ull find out soon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
exturbo2003 0 Posted January 28, 2004 right switches and wires are as follows white=low pressure and should be blue/black wire brown or blue= high pressure and should be yellow wire hope this helps Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted January 29, 2004 white=low pressure and should be blue/black wire brown or blue= high pressure and should be yellow wire ahaa.. that might help a lot, I've got a funny feeling that they are the otherway round.. although I had a look at a 16V Golf at the E1K meet the other night and I'd have sworn his were brown sensor = yellow wire and white sensor = blue wire.. will change em over to see if it makes any difference though.. FINGERS CROSSED :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted January 29, 2004 Right, I've changed em round - so now have white = blue/black and brown = yellow... started it and oil light is flashing straight away - rev it up to about 3K and then the buzzer joins the light! so still no joy :( worth a try though. Time to call the stealers and speak to the service dept... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted January 29, 2004 Spoke to the stealers - asked about the wires and was told that they'd have trouble finding out which way round they're meant to be GREAT :mad: ! they then said that they've had this problem in the past and it might be that I need a new instrument pod! On a more helpful note they said to get the pressure checked first to eliminate pressure problems... Spoke to garage that has done previous work... they're convinced it's not pressure problems as it's got a new pump but are willing to pressure test it for me... hopefully I'll be able take it over to them this afternoon or tomorrow to find out... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted January 29, 2004 Pressure check tomorrow morning - any other helpful ideas still considered - I want to drive my C damn it !!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted January 30, 2004 Well, had it pressure tested this morning and it's all fine so I'm now left with bad wiring problems - any ideas on how to fool the sensors into thinking it's all good? buzzer seems to be behind the dash so cant disconect that and it's getting anoying having to put up with it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
