Audio help

[pebisit 0]

Hi all, quick question re my stereo fitment

Ive ordered a set of Alpine custom fit speakers to replace the Chav set up presently in my car, an Alpine SXE-1350S set for the front and an alpine SXE 4625S for the back. However, I've noticed the Halfords deal on an Alpine MRP -T220-300 which, at £30 is just too tempting. The idea being I'd run the front components off it.

But, the power rating seems too much for that component set. So, can I turn it down a bit, and if so, will I still notice the difference between using the amp and just the 4x40w out of the stereo??

Thanks in advance

Phil

[mattnorgrove 0]

To be honest mate, I'd look for a set of audioscape door pods for the front. They allow you to fit 6.5" woofers and are far more solid than the plastic factory pods. The factory fitted pods are just too flimsy and the original size speaker just isn't big enough to offer much improvement, even if you fitted amped up components. I went down the route you're thinking of to my expense. Ended up getting the audioscapes, a good set of 6.5" components and a decent amp. MUCH better quality sound for not much more than upgrading in original sizes.

 

Hope this helps!!

[pebisit 0]

Hi Matt

I know the pods will make a big difference, but I really like to try and keep my cars as stock as possible, and do what I can behind it

Hence keeping it as it is, I will be filling out the dorrs with dynomat to try and improve it, but will be keeping the stock look, but thanks anyway, and I totally agree

So, anyone know anything about whether I can turn this amp down a tad, and whether I'll still notice the difference as a result??

[colinstubbs 0]

Speakers get more damaged by a distorted signal than too much clean power. That amp should be fine, you'll have a gain dial you can adjust anyhow and you should get a better signal than that from the headunit. Think of it as quality over quantity, if your amp delivers more power than you need without distorting you'll get better sound - period.

[A1 VR6 0]

Hi all, quick question re my stereo fitment

Ive ordered a set of Alpine custom fit speakers to replace the Chav set up presently in my car, an Alpine SXE-1350S set for the front and an alpine SXE 4625S for the back. However, I've noticed the Halfords deal on an Alpine MRP -T220-300 which, at £30 is just too tempting. The idea being I'd run the front components off it.

But, the power rating seems too much for that component set. So, can I turn it down a bit, and if so, will I still notice the difference between using the amp and just the 4x40w out of the stereo??

Thanks in advance

Phil

 

If I was you I'd buy a decent set of standard size (5.25) front components with crossovers like Focal, MB Quart etc, a 4 channel amp and a small 10" sub which is what I have and it's a huge improvement over standard. I don't run the standard rears as they should run mono for fill in sound only. No need for bigger speakers and you wouldn't be disappointed if you just want decent quality sound.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Speakers get more damaged by a distorted signal than too much clean power.

 

Spot on!

 

Voltage clipping will kill a speaker coil far quicker than too much power.

 

But, the power rating seems too much for that component set. So, can I turn it down a bit, and if so, will I still notice the difference between using the amp and just the 4x40w out of the stereo??

 

What's the RMS input power of the speakers you're thinking of and what's the RMS output of the amp? Ignore 'max' power figures. They are short term peaks, often rated with a fair bit of THD (Total Harmonic Distortion). Your 4x40W headunit in reality will dish out around 4 x 15W RMS, so it won't have the guts for any meaningful volume and clarity at motorway speeds.

 

If your speakers are rated at 50W RMS, then try and use a 50W rms amp.

Amps with more power than your speakers are rated at are fine too. Just turn the volume up until you hear distortion and then wind the gains back until it goes. That then is your speaker's maximum power capability.

 

As for the speakers, most of the 5.25 component sets I've seen in the £100 price range can't take much grunt, barely any more than the factory ones in some cases. If you want some volume, you'll have to spend a bit of cash and get something half decent like this - http://www.caraudiodiscount.com/k2-powe ... 14675.html

 

Even they can only take 60W RMS, but you can get dedicated 5.25" mid-bass woofers that can take a lot more.

 

The factory door pods are sonically useless as already mentioned. Best thing to do there would be mount the speakers onto wooden plinths bolted to the door and then simply use the Stock doorpods to cover them. Mounting decent speakers to the pods is a waste of time and money.

 

But this all does depend on your budget and expectations before getting carried away with the lavish recommendations of course :D If you just want a bit more than what the standard stuff offers, then the budget kit should work fine for you!

[pebisit 0]

I don't want anything amazing, so I'd be quite hapy with that, my days of 1200w systems are well in the past ... lol

Anyhow, cheers for that, so I'll grab this amp, and get some wooden mounts done behind the stock grills, does the world still use mdf for this sort of thing bearing in mind its 18 years ago when I last pratted about with this sort of thing??

So, based on that solution, where do I apply the dynomat. At the moment, they've still got the old plastic sheet fitted. Do I just rip that out and apply the dyno to the inside of the dor. And if so, how much

Thanks guys, much appreciated

[colinstubbs 0]

MDF - yes

 

Dynamat - Apply it to the door and re-attach membrane over the top - unless you totally seal the door with dynamat.

 

XXXXXXX- More.......... is more :lol: :lol: , but it will make the door heavy so the hinges may droop over time, if this happens simply shim the top hinge forward to lift the back edge, easy.(LUBE THEM MORE!)

 

The door will also shut with a satisfying Merc-like clunk!