Bilestien Springs and Dampers Kit +fitting!

[Brando 0]

Hi guys,

 

I'm seriously thinking about a 40mm drop again, I rather like the sounds of the bilsteins. Any recomendations for places to to have the kit fitted, I need(!!!!!) to have 4 wheel alignment done at the same time :/ (PVW reconned about £125 all in).

 

I'm willing to travel if it really is worth it :)

 

cheers :D

[Andy T 0]

That's what I pay for a proper job, about £125, mind you thats just fitting front shocks/springs, and FULL laser 4-wheel aligment, which takes some time to do properly on a lowered car.

 

Be very carful where you take it, preferably somewhere that is used to fitting lowered suspension!

 

oh and change the front top bearingswhile your at it too, only £12-ish each

 

cheers,

 

Andy

[dazzyvr6 0]

cant you fit them yourself,its a pretty easy job,fitted mine in a few hours and i did it on one of the hotest days of last year,had to stop loads of times to cool down

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah doing them yourself is simple enough, just take it to a local bodyshop afterwards to get the geometry checked/adjusted.

[Andy T 0]

That is true, I think I would of done the fronts myself if I'd known how simple it is on the golf/corrado.

 

Is a special tool needed for the castellated top nut on the shock assembly, or is there a way around it?

[Supercharged 2]

Is a special tool needed for the castellated top nut on the shock assembly, or is there a way around it?

 

Most people get away with using a pair of needle nose pliers or you could make one from a long reach socket

[Kevin Bacon 5]

That is true, I think I would of done the fronts myself if I'd known how simple it is on the golf/corrado.

 

Is a special tool needed for the castellated top nut on the shock assembly, or is there a way around it?

 

Just need a deep recess ring spanner and what ever size spanner the damper requires.

[cliveyp 0]

i used a top mount tool on the MK2, which was like a castellated socket. cost about 30 quid from Halfords in a pack of 4 which is useful.................................. :roll:

[dazzyvr6 0]

i spent hours looking for my castellated socket,to find my vr6 didnt have that type of nut :lol:

[Andy T 0]

i used a top mount tool on the MK2, which was like a castellated socket. cost about 30 quid from Halfords in a pack of 4 which is useful.................................. :roll:

 

get the other 3 sold on ebay mate !

[cliveyp 0]

lol, could do. Probably find i need one of those on a future car then though, then i'll have to go and buy another packet! :roll: :lol:

[Brando 0]

hehe, anyone fancy making a guide up for doing it??

 

cheers for your replies? and what about lowering the back too?

[Andy T 0]

I can help with the rear end because i've done it before and its pretty straight forward-

 

Tools - trolley jack, 2 x axle stand, 13mm & 17mm spanners, water pump pliers or similar (for holding flats on damper piston rod) screwdrivers, grease, WD40 etc. etc.

 

1) Spray releasing fluid/wd40 on the lower shock bolts underneath car

2) Remove obstructions from rear strut towers in boot (parcel shelf supports etc.)

3) Via boot, slacken top nut on shock absorbers (if piston rod spins, grip flats with pliers)

4) Get under car and SLACKEN 17mm bolt that holds shock body onto rear axle.

5) Jack car up and support both sides with axle stands at proper jacking points, so both rear wheels are in the air. Remove wheels.

6) Support rear axle with trolley jack so it won't drop suddenly when you release the fixings.

7) Back in the boot, remove top nut, rubber bushings & middle nut from top of shocks (note order of parts for re-assy)

8 Underneath the car, remove lower shock bolts to release the shock/spring assy.

9) Lower rear axle down on trolley jack so shock assemblies can be removed.

 

Stripping down the shock assembly is dead straight forward, just note order & orientation of parts.

 

When reassembling with new shock & spring, check for corrosion of the spring caps, and condition of rubber bushings.

Fit new foam spring assistors, don't cut them down for a 40mm drop.

Clean all the parts, use some rubber lubricant on the bushings to prevent squeaks. Ensure nut on top of shock assembly is nice and tight, you don't want it coming loose on the car!

 

When refitting the new shock assemblies to the car, loosely fit the lower bolts, then use the trolley jack to lift the rear beam until the assemblies are pushed up to the chassis, now you can check they are seated properly, and nip up the top bushings & nuts, and lower bolts.

 

Note : don't fully tighten the bolts & nuts until the full weight of the car is on the ground.

 

When lowering the car, it;s also a good idea to slighty slacken off the rear axle pivot bolts, then retighten them to the correct torque when the full weight of the car is on the ground - this takes out the stress applied to the bushes from the axle being at a different angle due to the lower rider height.

 

Also, you should reset the brake proportioning valve (underneath the car, n/side, at the rear axle)

 

1) Slacken off the nut/bolt that sits on the adjustment slot.

2) Slide the bolt along the adjustment slot until the spring is just under tension, but not enough to of moved the valve.

3) Tighten the nut and check that there is no slack in the spring.

 

If you don't do this, you end up with too much braking effort at the back and less at the front !

 

 

Did any of that make sense? :? :-P :mrgreen:

 

Andy