Farrantino's Valver/ She lives AGAIN

[farrantino 0]

Hi guys, first Member thread so bare with me.

 

Right, i bought my valver about 5 (maybe more) months ago, i had to have her relayed home vai the AA.

 

The problem was that she wouldnt rev past 2K rpm, after a couple of day playing around, it turned out to be the micro-switch on the TB.

Then i drove her, amazing is all i can say, loved every minute.

The car had her ups and downs-

Clutch cylinder went on christmas day, p/s window fell out of the runner, annoying headlight problem, idle problem, the usaul :nuts: .

 

Now as the MOT and tax has run out i decided to repair a few more problems

.oil leak

.over heating problem

.fuel pump

.suspension arm.

.arb bushes

.timing belt

.and a gnereal clean and restore

 

Below are a few pics of what ive been upto the last couple of days...................

Started by removing headlights and grille EASY

Then removed rad to find evil rust :mad2:

Same rust :mad2:

then remove bumper and started removing slam panel

Slam panel removed

And then started taking more apart

Inlet manifolds, throttle body, starter motor, air box, and a few more things

 

There is going to be more pictures as i go along.

Need to get the head of to have a little look as ive gone this far.

 

What do you all think :confused4:

[Kempy 0]

looks like what Ive been up to recently, those crossmembers must rust a lot from leaky Rads :censored:

[farrantino 0]

Just about to remove the head and had a quick though, will i need to get the head skimmed ??.

 

Sean

[Kempy 0]

I think thats the done thing tbh, you dont want to put a slighty warped head on?

[Wild-Animal 0]

Its well worth getting the head skimmed, my mate never did it on his car and yes it was a rover 25 and yeh there engines are made of cheese but yeh first time he never got his head skimmed. After 5k he had to re do his head gasket then got it skimmed, for the £35 it cost him for the skim its well worth it.

[farrantino 0]

done gonna get the head skimmed wheres the best place im in bedfordshire.

 

cheers

[pete_griff 0]

good to see you're getting stuck in! :lol:

 

good job the timing belt is getting done - looks like that one is getting a bit tired...

 

eek! at the rust - if i was you i would be hunting for a replacement rather than bothering with that rad support panel...

[farrantino 0]

were is the best place to get the head skimmed and cleaned, or if you know of anyone selling a head already done and flowed would be great.

 

Cheers

Sean

[farrantino 0]

Hello,

 

Just got a quote of £251.00 for a skim valve re-cut and a good clean

 

and

 

£391.00 for the above and valve guide supply and replace.

 

the guy on the phone said that the guides will need replacing, as all VW suffer with serious wear on exhaust guide.

Is this true and is that a good quote, the reason for doubt is that i cant really afford it :(

 

where would you take your head (lol).

 

Sean

[pete_griff 0]

the first quote seems a bit steep - you can get a head skim done for £30-40! (the place i take mine in hereford will give the head a steam clean included in the price of £40)

 

recutting the valves in is a royal pain in the arse and takes ages, but in all honesty anyone can cut valves back in! all you need is some coarse & fine grinding paste and a valve tool (basically a stick with a sucker on the end!).

have a look online (i haven't checked personally), but there's bound to be a guide on how to cut valve back in. essentially, once you've done your first one or two you'll get a "feel" for it.

like i said, it's not difficult, just a time consuming and monotonous job!

 

despite the fact that grinding valves back in is a crap job - they shouldn't be charging you that much IMO. is that with new valves as well, or is that just all labour costs?

 

it all depends on your engine and how it's been looked after etc etc (mine was a vr, so i can't comment with much authority on valvers), but when i did my head my exhaust valves were pretty minging, as were the guides.

if you're getting the guides replaced then you should do the valves at the same time otherwise it'll just be false economy.

 

try getting a quote from somewhere else, and get some piccies up so we can judge how good/bad your valves etc are...

 

if it was me and i was planning on keeping the car for a while, then new valves & guides would be a good idea - it would also be a very good time to fit some new tappets, new camshaft and new valve springs - but i appreciate that you won't have an endless budget.

you could always do the tappets & camshaft at a later date - but obviously, you'll only be able to do valves, guides & springs while the head is off. if you don't do them now then you'll have to take the head off again in future if you want to change them!

[swiftkid 1]

ouch! well i got my head skimmed for £80.00 at my local engineers and did the regrinding myself. You seem to have a bit of mechanical knowledge so why not have a go yourself at the cleanup? you can buy the tool for valves for about £15, the valve guides should come as part of a head gasket set and they simply push on (with a little bit of careful encouragement) and the valve grinding is a boring job but easy!

Shop around for skimming prices, im sure you will be able to get it done cheaper!

[pete_griff 0]

ouch! well i got my head skimmed for £80.00 at my local engineers and did the regrinding myself. You seem to have a bit of mechanical knowledge so why not have a go yourself at the cleanup? you can buy the tool for valves for about £15, the valve guides should come as part of a head gasket set and they simply push on (with a little bit of careful encouragement) and the valve grinding is a boring job but easy!

Shop around for skimming prices, im sure you will be able to get it done cheaper!

valve guides do not come as part of a head gasket kit and they definitely do not just push in and out by hand - they have to be pressed in and out carefully!

you're on about valve stem seals - the little rubber seals that sit on top of the valve guides and stop oil that sits in the head travelling down the guides and into the combustion chambers.

 

sorry - i'm not being a cock about it or anything, but just getting the facts right.

[farrantino 0]

Just putting the car back together and the locating lug on the cam pulley isnt there, is this a major problem or can i use the pully, if not does anyone have a pulley i can buy.

 

Kindest Regards

Sean

[Kempy 0]

are you referring to the woodruff key? I'd buy a new pulley the key is built in

[aide 0]

i'm sure i have a pulley and a 9a cam attached if you want?

[farrantino 0]

i'm sure i have a pulley and a 9a cam attached if you want?

Depending on the price.

 

Is it a major problem not too have that woodruff key.

Regard

Sean

[Kempy 0]

Yea I would say vital

[aide 0]

ok just to be certain, the cam gear (chain side) has a half moon woodruff key, the cam pulley (belt side) has a locating lug, the pulley lug is known to shear, never heard of a woodruff key shearing, you need both to ensure correct timing of course.

 

if its just the woodruff key then you can have for free if you cover postage, if its the pulley then you can have that for £7 plus p&p, and because I can't be bothered detatching the cam you can have that for free :grin:

[farrantino 0]

ok just to be certain, the cam gear (chain side) has a half moon woodruff key, the cam pulley (belt side) has a locating lug, the pulley lug is known to shear, never heard of a woodruff key shearing, you need both to ensure correct timing of course.

 

if its just the woodruff key then you can have for free if you cover postage, if its the pulley then you can have that for £7 plus p&p, and because I can't be bothered detatching the cam you can have that for free :grin:

 

It would be the cambelt pulley which hs sheared the lug, i can time it via the dots on the cams and so on. does the lug do anything other than for timing???

 

Aide, may have to take the pulley and cam when i get paid at the end of the month.

 

Sean

[aide 0]

lug holds cam pulley in position on the cam, danger is pulley will slip on end of cam otherwise.

 

if you're in a spot without it, then i can send it now and you can pay me when you have funds.

[farrantino 0]

lug holds cam pulley in position on the cam, danger is pulley will slip on end of cam otherwise.

 

if you're in a spot without it, then i can send it now and you can pay me when you have funds.

 

 

Wow, top bloke PM sent, cheers mate.

 

Sean

[aide 0]

no bother at all, i'll get it dug out and hopefully sent tomorrow.

[farrantino 0]

The C is alive again and better than ever, beautifully revs up and idles, just waiting for the caliper to come back then its back on the roads :D :clap:

[Kempy 0]

great success :)

[farrantino 0]

the C has been a pig too start for a while, then yesterday the starter refused to turn on a fully charged battery, tried and tried to get her started, 10mins later she had started, got her too mum and dads and had taken the starter out for a clean, to find oil everywhere in the bell housing, me thinks a new crank seal and clutch are in order.

How hard is it too replace a crank seal and clutch on a Corrado.

 

Cheers