Advice please crankshaft bolt removal vr6

[Craig 0]

I've had a slow oil leak on the vr6, I bought it like it and took a gamble. Narrowed it down to the crankshaft seal leaking so have a new one. Problem is can't remove the bolt. Did a search on here and need a bit more info than was provided.

 

Is the bolt a normal thread. My mate tried an air gun and had no impact. Any tips for removal. Mate did say to heat the bolt off but would probably need a new pulley? Don't want to go down this route as I need to drive the car, anyone any ideas on a new pulley cost?

 

Any info on the removal and fitting would be great, just visiting my dad up north and like to give him as much advice as poss, he's experienced with v8s (mustangs) so knows his way round an engine, would this just be similar as any other engine or is the vr different in it's own little vw way. Oh and I read the bolt is a stretch bolt and can only be used once. Surely it doesn't need to be that tight to just hold the pulley on. And if it was removed can it just be fitted again, maybe with a bit grinded off?

 

Thanks for any info, much appreciated

 

craig

[volksworld13 0]

the crankshaft pulley is held on by allen keys as i rememeber, well it is on the 8v ady engine , i think this is the same for the vrs as well.

[iceviolet 0]

The bolt is just very very tight! had a little trouble getting mine off, you need to stop the crank rotating at the flywheel end very securely! then apply a great deal of force to undo the bolt. I have used two methods which both worked,one requireing less effort than the other.

This was to use a torque multiplier if you can get hold of one. very easy with this.

Other option is to use a breaker bar extended by a scaffold tube or similar to create more leverage.

[Craig 0]

Cheers for the advice, is the bolt a one time use or can it be put back in? my dad being a little forward said to try and just wedge the bar either on the subframe or floor and take out the coilpack lead and turn the engine over to loosen the bolt?? wasn't sure ifthis a bit extreme. Vw quoted 290 for a new pulley!! So don't want to burn the nut off and need a new pulley.

[iceviolet 0]

well i reused the bolt. Its only holding the pulley on to the shaft, it isnt taking a load i wouldnt of imagined, the load will be taken on the shaft and the key if there is any substantial loading.

I suppose that would work by turning the engine over, i havent tried as i have had the engines out when i removed it.

[fla 9]

I think there's only one seal on the crank case and thats on the gearbox side. The other side is just the bearing, is it not :shrug: If so, do you need to remove the crank pulley? Its been a while since i had a mess around with the bottom end of the engine.

[iceviolet 0]

im pretty sure there is a seal on both ends, a small one on the front of the engine and large one on flywheel side.

[Craig 0]

Sorted, cheers for the advice, had to postion the rod on the lower arm and turn the engine over, did the trick no problems and the bolt was reuseable, don't think it was a stretch bolt, no idea why it had to be on there so tight. Jst took of the crank case plate and banged out the old seal and in with the new :) put new oil filter and fuelfilter on too. So fingers crossed it's all fixed and no more oil leaking? Few days will tell. good old dad, saved me a fair whack in labour :)

[pagurus 0]

Sorted, cheers for the advice, had to postion the rod on the lower arm and turn the engine over, did the trick no problems and the bolt was reuseable, don't think it was a stretch bolt, no idea why it had to be on there so tight. Jst took of the crank case plate and banged out the old seal and in with the new :) put new oil filter and fuelfilter on too. So fingers crossed it's all fixed and no more oil leaking? Few days will tell. good old dad, saved me a fair whack in labour :)

 

I'm no expert on here, but ...

Just replaced my crank shaft bolt. Not sure if the one you (reused / put back) was one of these -

Left - (Old Bolt) Middle - (PG Shoulder Bolt) Right (DX Bolt)

2010 06 25 - Crank Bolts - Side Profile View - IMG_3383.JPG[/attachment:33hflgbd]

 

If it was like the left or middle bolts they were probably stretch (pg) bolts and should not be put back.

For the sake of what they cost (£2.66), it's probably worth replacing it asap.

 

DX Bolt details : V068 105 193 A - Washer (£3.43) - OUCH !! + VN 040 106 4 - Bolt (£1.30)

PG Bolt Details : VN 903 208 02 - Socket Head Scr (£2.66)

[Funkster 0]

Just to add a little bit to this, for what it's worth:

 

You do need to do the bolt back up to the book torque, 350 lbs.ft. The damper is only driven by friction on the end of the crank nose, and without a massive clamping force it will fret and damage both crank and pulley.

 

If you don't have a torque wrench that'll go this high, just use a long lever and a weight you know - I weighed myself and then held on to the lever at the appropriate distance, and lifted myself off the ground using the lever. My dad was holding a longer lever that was on a massive ring spanner that was on the hex that's part of the pulley - you're meant to steady it using this rather than at the flywheel end.

 

You'll need a good quality 3/4" drive socket, we split a cheap one at 200 lbs.ft the first time we tried to do it up )

 

fwiw!

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Olly