Engine conversion

[liamtg60 10]

Right.... having looked at all the poss conversions i have decided im going to down the g60 turbo route with forged pistons and rods with a k04 turbo and modified 16v head.

Im in the process of building the block now. g60 management

 

Im sourcing most of the parts myself the only question I have is.....

 

with the block and head do i need a spacer and gasket or is 1 steel gasket sufficient? I don't want the cr to low and iv heard this is easily done with this type of conversion im looking for around 8.5.1

 

Also any 1 know of any problems i could possibly run into.... bearing in mind i have a 1.8 16v to start..... thought you guys would be the best people to ask?? thanks

 

Liam

[liamtg60 10]

not all at once, lol!!

[boost monkey 0]

you're using a 16v head with the G60 block? which one? and why a k04 turbo? why use a gasket to drop the CR, why not do it properly...

[liamtg60 10]

why use a gasket to drop the CR, why not do it properly...

 

Im not im using forged pistons and rods. what do u mean do it properly?

[mikkijayne 0]

If you're getting new pistons and rods why not just use the 16V block? The G60 block just makes it complicated since you have to swap the intermediate shaft, crank sprocket, etc.

 

Or, get a 2E 2.0 block from a mk3 (cos they are cheap as dirt) and put the 16V head on that? Or build a turbo ABF?

 

The G60 block (and G60 pistons) with 16V head yields about 6:1, so you are going to need to put 16V turbo pistons in there rather than G60 ones.

Edited May 12, 2011 by mikkijayne

[boost monkey 0]

Im not im using forged pistons and rods. what do u mean do it properly?

 

you mentioned spacers and gaskets, that's why I thought you weren't doing it properly!

 

If you're going forged, why do you want a spacer in with the gasket?

[dannyboy 0]

if your using pistons that lower CR or raise it you dont need a head spacer,just one head gasket as normal.

 

I dont like the idea of using head spacers anyway,cheap way of getting CR right but prob worst way.You want the combustion to happen in the piston crown and dome of the cylinder head,not the cylinder walls which head spacer does.

 

The KR 1.8 16v engine is brilliant engine to use(and my personal choice too) but rebuild it before you start.You want a solid engine to begin with otherwise your going to have to strip it apart in few thousand miles because you overstressed already tired components.

 

You can use g60 management to save costs and its very simple to diagnose+adapt but its old and crude type of injection system.

 

So you have a PG block and KR head? Your going down the 16v turbo route,not g60 turbo.

The g60 turbo is so much more simpler as it retains 8v head,loses the g-charger and gains a turbo(well pretty easy)

Few guys on here have done it,ask around

 

i dont mean to be negative but saves you making mistake from the start

[liamtg60 10]

I dont want to use spacer gasket or stack gaskets just so thats cleared up.

 

Ive decided today to get a 2E block instead. My matched piston and rod set will fit in 2E block as its 82.5mm bore. im guessing ill be better off with an ABF head????

 

The reason for g60 management is to keep costs down as its already spiraling out of control.

 

I liked the idea of 1.8 16v turbo becos i already had most of the parts to b honest

[boost monkey 0]

why not just use a whole ABF engine?

 

to be honest mate, if it's already spiralling out of control it sounds like you haven't budgetted enough for the conversion. You don't want to get it up and running and then not be able to drive it as you need a new clutch / brakes etc etc etc after they wear out.

 

why don't you just use a KR engine and go from there? the pistons should still fit, I think it's an 82.5mm bore.

[liamtg60 10]

It not really an issue I just want to do a 16vt right and not have probs down the line

[Fin2982 10]

well thats 2 of us doing the 16vt in the area.

I was going looking at doing an engine rebuild soon(depends were this oils is leaking) and the funds are available, should be fun

[boost monkey 0]

It not really an issue I just want to do a 16vt right and not have probs down the line

 

Ok, you're contradicting yourself. Do you want to doit right or do you want to keep costs down?

 

Can't have both I'm afraid!

 

 

Fault Tolerance = Reliability.

 

So you have Performance, Cost and Reliability. You can pick only two, or you can have an average kinda car but balancing them all. Normally one of the 3 suffers though.

[liamtg60 10]

I know mate, the only area im skimpin on is the management i think, its an area im not that familiar with but if a cheap system comes up for sale i might go standalone i been told it expensive tho but worth the extra cash. ill have to see when it gets to that point otherwise im just going to use chipped g60

[Kevin Bacon 5]

My old 16VT cost several thousand to build. That was over 10 years ago, using the standard K Jet + K star, so it didn't get any simpler than that management wise.

 

As Gorilla Boy says, to do a 16V T any justice you're looking at a minimum of £600 + harness + mapping + fuel and spark ancilleries, so the wrong side of £1500 for management before you've even started.

 

This is why people do 1.8T conversions. It's a proven, solid engine and makes the numbers. They're not as bland and soulless as people say, that's more to do with the car it lives in. In a Corrado / MK2 with some choice mods, it's an excellent engine.

[mikkijayne 0]

Megasquirt is a fraction of the price of most standalones, and is equally as capable for a 16VT. You could have that running for £250 - £300 if you shop around and can build it yourself, which is about the same as having the G60 Digifant remapped.

 

You could even run it on AEB 1.8T management, which is much more suited to the task and can be remapped via OBDII. You can pick those up from the scrappers for peanuts, and if you find one with keys you can even keep the transponder immobiliser which is a nice security feature ;)

 

Conventional standalone is the last thing I would pick for a project like this, but then I'm like that :D

[KipVR 1]

x2 for 1.8t

 

If it was a Mk2 though I'd say high revving valver

[mikkijayne 0]

Yeah to be fair you can pick up a 1.8T for less than the price of a Megasquirt :) Just got a complete AGU for a friend for £150 :D

[liamtg60 10]

im big fan of oldskool plus i think i cud easily get more out of a 16vt conversion. (dont mean to offend lol)

[mikkijayne 0]

I reckon its pretty even how much you can get out of either of them tbh. The bottom ends are very similar - AEB and KR even share the same rods. 1.8T is just a cheaper starting point since it comes with a turbo and decent management already ;)

[liamtg60 10]

arnt 1.8t pistons the same bore as abf?

[mikkijayne 0]

No 1.8T is 81, same as KR & PL. The ABF is 82.5, same as 2E & ADY.

 

---------- Post added at 10:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 AM ----------

 

Btw, if you put a KR head on a 2E block I'm pretty sure you end up with 9:1 CR or thereabouts, which is reasonable for a turbo setup :)

 

You might need 9A pistons for that ^, but if you are buying forged anyway you can buy pistons to suit a turbo ABF which is effectively what that is.

[liamtg60 10]

I need a clutch any1 know of a good place to get one??

[liamtg60 10]

any1?