Idle and power problems

[joebrent 0]

Just had a new head gasket fitted, which required skimming of the cylinder head, the mechanic went to run it and he said its not running right. I went down and had a drive,it feels really rough, the idle is fluctuating between nearley stalling and about 1100, and it doesnt feel as powerful.

The mechanic is scratching his head as to what the problem may be so i thought id ask you guys!! He said that the housing of some the injectors is not in tip top condition (in case that helps)

 

Please try and help guys, the cars been away for a week already and i really miss it :cry: A mechanic electrician is gona hopefully have a look at it on monday as the mechanic thinks its electrical.

 

Cheers in advance :)

[aide 0]

The non 'tip top' injector housings shouldn't affect it - provided he's pushed the injectors all the way back in that is!!!

 

I'd check he reset the idle settings off the coil first, and then look at the idle stabilisation valve - there's plenty of threads on this sort of problem, just not usually mechanic caused!!

 

Have you run it to warm? Does it still fluctuate?

[dazzyvr6 0]

what engine is it??the timing could be out slightly

[Henny 0]

yeah, I'd agree with Dazzy here... Sounds like the cam's a tooth out, possibly on the cam chain between the 2 cams... :?

[joebrent 0]

its a 1.8 16v, do ya think its anything to do with the isv? most of the idle problems on the forum are to do with the isv, i told the mechanic about it and he didnt know where it was? anyone know where it is? the idle still fluctuates when its warm

[kvwloon 0]

Well, could be making a tw#t of myself here, as not too up on the engine side of things, but....when i replaced all my cam followers a few months ago, put it all back together again, but the engine was really lumpy and would hardly run at all. After a bit of head scratching urned out the pipe (about 1" dia) which attaches on the rear right side of the cam cover was not on fully. As soon as i secured it fully with a clip the engine was back to normal instantly. Could be a red herring on my part, but worth a look.....and my gut instinct would be a non-electrical fault!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Skimming the head is probably the cause of the power loss. 16V heads don't need skimming unless the total run-out is greater than 0.5mm end-to-end. I've never had to skim a valver head. They're case hardened.

 

Sort your intial running problems out and then get a vernier cam wheel and restore the factory cam timing.

 

K

[joebrent 0]

Skimming the head is probably the cause of the power loss. 16V heads don't need skimming unless the total run-out is greater than 0.5mm end-to-end. I've never had to skim a valver head. They're case hardened.

 

Sort your intial running problems out and then get a vernier cam wheel and restore the factory cam timing.

 

K

 

So in effect even when i sort out the initial running problems it still wont be as powerful? what does the vernier cam wheel do? is it expensive? cheers mate. Im really annoyed now :evil:

[joebrent 0]

Skimming the head is probably the cause of the power loss. 16V heads don't need skimming unless the total run-out is greater than 0.5mm end-to-end. I've never had to skim a valver head. They're case hardened.

 

Sort your intial running problems out and then get a vernier cam wheel and restore the factory cam timing.

 

K

 

So in effect even when i sort out the initial running problems it still wont be as powerful? what does the vernier cam wheel do? is it expensive? cheers mate. Im really annoyed now :evil:

 

Kev,any ideas mate?? cheers

[h100vw 0]

Well, could be making a tw#t of myself here, as not too up on the engine side of things, but....when i replaced all my cam followers a few months ago, put it all back together again, but the engine was really lumpy and would hardly run at all. After a bit of head scratching urned out the pipe (about 1" dia) which attaches on the rear right side of the cam cover was not on fully. As soon as i secured it fully with a clip the engine was back to normal instantly. Could be a red herring on my part, but worth a look.....and my gut instinct would be a non-electrical fault!

 

That problem pipe is the Vacuum for the servo. Having that hanging off would give you a massive air leak, hence the running problems.

 

gavin

[kvwloon 0]

That was certainly the effect i got....major panic on for a few minutes as thought i'd somehow managed to total the engine, oh...how I laughed! :mad: Pipe wasn't even hanging off though, just slightly loose! :roll: