Allen bolts - how to remove if they are so rusted the key just spins

[Portent 0]

Trying to remove a steering wheel from an old boss. It's held in place by about 6 allen bolts. Half of htem are so old and rusty that the allen key just strips the 'head' and spins. Don't really wan't to drill it at I'll probably damage the steering wheel.

 

Any thoughts?

[Critical_Mass 10]

Are they flush or do they have raised heads?

[Portent 0]

Flush unfortunately. Otherwise I'd have hacksawed some slots into it for a screwdriver.

 

The wheel is not on the car. I think it has been stored for some time in someones garden or garage, hence the rusty bolts. But it's old skool so I fancy trying to get it on the car :)

[Critical_Mass 10]

With them being flush im not sure you'll have much option other then to drill them out. Could you use a small drill bit to drill it into each bolt. Leave the drill bit in the nut then grip the drill bit with some pliers or mole grips, using it to turn the nut??

[Portent 0]

Yes like that option of keeping the drill bit in. Thanks.

[Rob_B 0]

Trouble is you will just start to spin the drill bit out when you undo it. Or worse, snap the drill bit.

I would either drill the screw head completely or get some screw extractors

[mimjed 0]

just got to get on with drilling them really. use the same size drill bit as the allen key you are using.

 

countersunk heads dont take alot for the head to fall off so your unlikely to damage the wheel.

 

then use mole grips to wind the threads out once theyre all off.

[floppyman 0]

You can try and use a spline tool and hammer it in.... It ussualy works. What size allen key is it? 7?

 

And make shure you are holding the steering wheel in a vice or something very strong.

[davidwort 0]

or a very small chisel and tap them round

[northernvr6 0]

agree with floppyman get a slightley larger screwdriver or spline bit and bray it in with a hammer normally does the job

[G60_Marc 0]

Drill out the bolts head, then use a drill through the centre of the bolt with a bit that is smaller than the bolt. Then use a screw/bolt extractor to unwind the bolt.

 

The bolt extractor is like a tap but with a reversed thread. As you wind it in to undo the bolt the tap's teeth bite in and grip.

 

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_trkparms=65%253A10%257C66%253A3%257C39%253A1&rt=nc&_nkw=bolt%20extractor&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=2

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Drill out the bolts head, then use a drill through the centre of the bolt with a bit that is smaller than the bolt. Then use a screw/bolt extractor to unwind the bolt.

 

The bolt extractor is like a tap but with a reversed thread. As you wind it in to undo the bolt the tap's teeth bite in and grip.

 

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_trkparms=65%3A10%7C66%3A3%7C39%3A1&rt=nc&_nkw=bolt extractor&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=2

 

that's what i'd be doing...

[Portent 0]

Thanks for the input. I've just ordered a screw extraction set and will have a go at it.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Those steering wheel boss screws are like cheese, even the Momo ones. They need literally, 10nm torque and that's it. Any more and they become part of the steering wheel as you've discovered. I'd be looking at replacing them with hardened steel or stainless personally.

 

And yeah, a screw extractor is the best method.

[cheebs 0]

Recently I was in the need to remove some seized Allen bolts in my hatch latch and this is what I did:

 

First, lube thoroughly with penetrating oil. Let wait at least ~20 mins.

 

Next, freeze for ~3 minutes with either freeze spray (available at pastry suppliers) or an upside-down can of commercial compressed air.

 

Finally, tap in a Torx key that's just slightly larger than the Allen hole, and gently but firmly turn until it loosens.

 

HTH

[StueyB 0]

A slight oversized torx bit (that you potentially don't mind damaging a little) hammered into the cheese head, sorry I mean bolt head.

 

Worked for me on many an occasion. Even when the allen key bolt head was mashed beyond recognition.

 

I like to think of these as tricks of the trade but should only be used as a last resort.

[leeeeshad 0]

that's what i'd be doing...

 

Me too, I've removed loads of steel bolts out of aluminium aircraft with easyouts, the best way IMO

Edited July 6, 2011 by leeeeshad

[Portent 0]

Right they are off :D

 

I first tried drilling them to allow the use of a screw extractor. But the only metal drill bits I had were part of a kit someone gave me and were made of utter cheese. They wouldn't drill into the screws (wtf!?).

 

So I got a big hammer out and hammered in a slightly larger spline bit and managed to get that working.

 

Now to order some new allen bolts. Thanks for the suggestions.

[Critical_Mass 10]

hammer, always the solution! :D

[Ben-B 0]

These are not just a problem with small cheese-bolts, but also much bigger bolts like seatbelt anchor bolts in some of the cars I've worked on.

 

They were supposedly T50 but I think really they were actually more like a T51.5 and that meant there was just enough movement to allow the bit to slip and shred the bolt. Cue braying a large socket over the bolt head to break the bolt out.

 

Not so bad with a steering wheel, but be warned, I did one of those bolts on the floor of a car and put a hole in the drivers side floor due to the excessive rust. Good job I did though, meant he got the rust sorted, and a few months later his passenger and seat fell through the car when the floor gave way