4eyes2wheels 0 Posted September 22, 2011 Recent changes made are a new MAF, Lambda Sensor and a new exhaust. May be totally unconnected but it's a struggle to start when cold. Coughs, splutters, doesn't want to get going but a lot of loud pedal gets it going and a couple of big revs gets it settled down. Think I heard a bit of squealing (fan belt?) this morning too. Not had time to scan or do anything to investigate. Would the new parts mean that a proper ECU reset is needed? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted September 22, 2011 Should be done in full including VCDS to settle the components. But I doubt the start problem would be resolved. Look at the fuel side for that if it not burning oil and requiring regular top ups. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 22, 2011 The ECU doesn't care about the MAF or Lambda sensor when cranking. It runs a simple fuel map based on water temp. Good info provided: "Starts with a lot of pedal". This means it could either be a sticky idle valve not providing enough air or a dead / dying Blue temp sender giving the ECU duff information. I.e. it thinks the engine is hot and therefore very little cranking fuel is injected. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4eyes2wheels 0 Posted September 22, 2011 Good info provided: "Starts with a lot of pedal". This means it could either be a sticky idle valve not providing enough air or a dead / dying Blue temp sender giving the ECU duff information. I.e. it thinks the engine is hot and therefore very little cranking fuel is injected. I have had the occasional coasting stall (always good fun as you lose power steering and brakes) which also point towards a dodgy idle stabiliastion valve? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rorgasm 10 Posted September 22, 2011 I have a simular problem but i have changed nothing:-) some cold mornings my Rado strugles to start, coughing & spluttering for about a second or two then cuts out. On the second attempt it'll start up fine but will rev at 2500rpm for a good 5min. What do you reckon......Cold start sensor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4eyes2wheels 0 Posted September 22, 2011 dead / dying Blue temp sender giving the ECU duff information. I.e. it thinks the engine is hot and therefore very little cranking fuel is injected. Tuning Werkes told me the water temp gauge was rising very slowly up to 90 degrees, the guage was lagging behind but that over 90 degrees it was fine. Is this consistent behaviour with a dying blue sensor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 22, 2011 Stalling and junctions is just a "Corrado VR6 thing" :D People often blame the ISV but it's not always the cause. Any engine, even one without an idle valve at all, will stall when you come off the gas if the fuelling isn't spot on at idle. It's usually the MAF that causes wayward fuelling during normal running and then the ISV and lambda controls struggle to 'catch' the engine before it dies. Nah, the blue temp sender is waaaaay faster than the yellow one, which is the one that runs your dash gauge. VAG-COM will tell you if the BTS is giving an implausible signal. You can also compare the air temp to the water temp when cold and if the water temp reads 70 deg, you know the sensor is knackered. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4eyes2wheels 0 Posted September 22, 2011 Quick scan just now shows me 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent :scratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
