Wet rear passenger Floor

[P3rks 11]

I've noticed that my passenger side rear floor is wet..

 

The front passenger floor is bone dry

The boot is bone dry

under the rear seats are bone dry.

 

It's literally just the rear passenger compartment; but it's more greasy/oily than wet, if that makes sense?

 

Any thoughts to what it is or where it's coming from?

[boost monkey 0]

Interesting one EO.

 

Is your rear quarter window seal alright? Obviously no door seals to leak, but a leaky window would be hidden by the rear cards and may just leak down and pool on the floor.

 

I have no idea why it's greasy though - unless the carpet is greasy and the leak is just showing up that fact.

[Erny 0]

I had this happen when my sunroof seal leaked a few years ago, also had this happen recently since I deleted my sunroof, kept happening when I parked pointing uphill during heavy Rain. Figured it was down to my doors, had a similar thing happen on mk2s

[P3rks 11]

Well,

 

I've had all the door cards off and changed them recently. There are no obvious trails or rust what you would expect to see from a leaky window. Now the door condoms are all split and gaffer taped up. BUT.. The door cards are solid, no signs of water damage.

 

Are there any common blocked water ways I could look at?

[RW1 0]

If you have had the door cards off and poly membrames open, the important rule is to ensure any water inside the door flashes off the membrane back into the door bottom. Otherwise it will run inside and cause problems like you have because it is exiting the door membrame behind the door frame seal on the inside rather than dripping onto the sill out of the door drains. There won't always be obvious signs as it will be a small rate over a long time.

 

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Edited September 26, 2011 by RW1

[GCDG60 0]

im having this same problem too, front passenger side is bone dry too, removed passenger seat and lifted carpet and floor is very wet! pulled doorcards off and cant find any trails of water :-(

[P3rks 11]

If you have had the door cards off and poly membrames open, the important rule is to ensure any water inside the door flashes off the membrane back into the door bottom. Otherwise it will run inside and cause problems like you have because it is exiting the door membrame behind the door frame seal on the inside rather than dripping onto the sill out of the door drains. There won't always be obvious signs as it will be a small rate over a long time.

 

.

 

Well, the door membrane or condom (what I like to call it) is just a plastic sheet stuck on with gaffer tape (thanks previous owners!) But it does look solid enough.

 

Anyone know if you can still by the membrane anywhere?

[dragon green 4]

I got some of e-bay,

You shouldn't use gaffer tape, the proper adhesive is still available from the dealer !

[P3rks 11]

I got some of e-bay,

You shouldn't use gaffer tape, the proper adhesive is still available from the dealer !

 

I know you shouldn't use gaffer tape! Literally it's a big thick sheet of plastic which has been taped on, it's not even the original membrane. 100% Bodge job here.

 

I am presuming the membranes are obsolete now?

[RW1 0]

You buy the poly sheet membrane as a standard size and cut to shape. The part was never available as a pre-cut sheet to just offer up and fit. What I have done in the past is put the sheet on with glue, get it tight, then with a sharp knife and a piece of card, go round the end and trim off the excess. The door card will hide the job.

 

I think its still available but if not, take a large clear plastic polythene bag and cut that to shape. Use no tape to join pieces, better is one whole sheet.

 

The important bit is to take the bottom edge and make sure it flashes off the water into the door bottom. Just sticking it on the face metal, the water will run off on the door inside with the floor becoming flooded again. Stick it on with a spray glue at the points where it contacts the door frame except the bottom area length. But note, the speaker hole needs to be taken care of as below before fully sticking down.

 

VW use Black Butyl sealing cord on the doors for the membrane. Part number AKL 450 005 05. This on most VW doors sits in a small snaking depression. This stops the water flashing off the membrane down the bottom of the doors bottom horizontal frame area and into the inside of the car. As the won't be Butyl cord intact (can't remember if fitted to Corrado), you instead put the bottom edge of the membrane into the door cavity.

 

Ensure the speaker hole through the membrane have little "rain porches" pointing into the door cavity and they point downwards so as water flashes of into the door, not upwards as water will drain down into the speaker unit. Use a small plastic freezer bag for this.

 

.

[mimjed 0]

I vote for sunroof run off pipes too.

[rogthe dodge 10]

Mmm had this happen to mine just after I bought it,check your coolant level as it's possible your heater matrix is leaking,this will account for the greasy oily wet you have,coolant/antifreeze is exactly that,the rear floor is lower than the front so will always run into there,hope this helps

[tony_ack 0]

I see you live in Sheffield, so I guess you're parked on a hill...

 

I've found the door membrane isn't as crucial on the Corrado as on the MK2, but still important to keep your interior dry. As said, the bottom seal is the most important - water is relentless and gaffer tape will relent sooner or later, especially when it starts to find gaps and starts pooling. One trick I have used in the past is to have an 'inner flap' sheet which I attach from halfway down the door, and then let it hang loose in the bottom of the door - this is in addition to the main membrane. The idea is that the inner flap will deflect most of the water straight to the bottom of the door, giving the main seal much less work to do. The VW stuff is best to use for the adhesive, but in a fix, I've found adhesive foil tape to be excellent for sticking down the seal