dubnut 10 Posted September 23, 2011 Any one know where i can find all the info to do this and is it worth the hassle or cost . Thanks in advance Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Portent 0 Posted September 24, 2011 I can't help directly but it would probably help some of the more nowledgable people if you could tell us what you're converting from... valver, G60, VR6? EDIT: Just looked at your other post so I assume you have a 16v? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubnut 10 Posted September 24, 2011 Yes a 2L 16v. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
webbywagon 10 Posted September 24, 2011 Yes log onto club gti, and take a look at toyo tecs thread on there. Its a pretty expensive conversion though dude i warn you now. I have a mk1 gti, i am converting myself into a 9A on carbs. I was going to turbo it, but the expense put paid to that. It would be cheaper to 20VT it, i have one in my rado using a DTA ECU and Loom and its wicked. However if you can take your time sourcing the parts and rebuilding your Engine etc... then a 16VT is a real trick item. Oooh youve got me thinking about mine again now,lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubnut 10 Posted September 24, 2011 I've seen a engine with updated piston and record to a 2.1 and also got a chance of a head with cams and port and polish. just wondering whether to buy and strip and rebuild ready for next summer . seen complete turbo kits for about a grand and engine will cost me a couple of hundred. without going to crazy what sort of power can i get Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
webbywagon 10 Posted September 27, 2011 Dude, there is no such thing as a budget 16VT, you need minimum s2 pistons and boring to 2.1 changes your choice of ideal turbo. Complete turbo kits are far far from it. You need a sump made with an oil return, Manifold, either S2 cut n weld or a proper custom cast iron nickel one (£600), injectors to suit the turbo, fmic, pipework, ecu, loom, all associated pipework and sensors, inlet manifold, fuel pump,regulator, radiator, custom fans,engine mounts,gearbox etc etc....A 2.1 stroker will be laggy if you dont match the right turbo, you need an aftermarket ecu, then it mapped. Dude i honestly could go on forever, the reason they 16vt is so rare is that, firstly no-one makes a comprehensive kit for it, secondly the cost and amount of work involved is unreal, especially if you cant do it yourself. A 20VT is an easier more affordable option and you have a far better choice of how to do it. If you are deffo set on doing it, try digging around on some of the german vw sites, its still being done over there, but its still mega money dude. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 28, 2011 I'm glad someone else can see that turbo and cheap don't belong in the same sentence. I had one of Stealth Racing's 16V Turbo conversions several years ago, which was a complete kit (based on the last 12 Turbo Technics kits which they bought up) and that was several grand for 200hp. The smokey old T25 wasn't a great turbo either, no top end. Things have improved now but costs certainly haven't reduced. A 20V Turbo install makes so much more economical sense and if you get a BAM engine, you're looking at 280hp straight away. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted September 28, 2011 Vince@Stealth said the same thing to a forum member on a rolling road a few years ago.. it's a lot of work to try and turbo a 9A.. it makes a lot more sense to just rip that out and stick in something more modern, already turbocharged.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 28, 2011 And 1.8T conversions have issues of their own, so not even that is 'cheap', but it's certainly cheaper in the long run. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eurospec 10 Posted September 28, 2011 Theres a guy local to me who has a 1.8 KR turbo he built himself. Is around 340-350bhp if I remember correctly. Shifts like you wouldn't believe. He said it cost a fair bit and took alot of time and he did it all himself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toyotec 0 Posted October 1, 2011 If you can confidently do all the work yourself, understand engine technology, know where to source components and know how to target drive feel then go for it. The drive feel and experience allows you to target the level of torque and ultimately power the engine will have to deliver in all conditions. This dicates which components are required or not and of course a rough budget. If you will be paying out get a 225PS spec 20vT. When I built mine, there where few who had engines like this and none who had similar objectives. I made and broke a few custom components before the car ran "right". Now that the chassis has been significantly upset by 315PS, attention, time and money are now shifted to suspension components to effectively harness the grunt to the tarmac. The current engine has done over 10,000 miles and the car still runs as a demo. I can be pm'd for more details but only do so if you are sure this route is feasible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubnut 10 Posted October 1, 2011 Hmmm. slowly thinkin 20vt thanks for all the input guys Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon green 5 Posted October 1, 2011 I've also heard good things about the 20vt ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted October 1, 2011 Go 20vt!!!I was in the same dilema as you. Cheaper,better and more reliable in the long run.im 3/4 finished mine but reason took me so long was i was sold a duff engine. Only drama you'll have is the wiring which is taken care on by aftermarket ECU or do it like me and use OEM ECU+wiring with DBW & cruise control(i hope).But it takes quite a while to wire in yourself (OEM ECU)and you will need some electrical knowledge.Might even keep it a standard 225 ps to stop the tyres going bald too quick! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VEEDUBBED 0 Posted October 3, 2011 Done loads now mate. First thing,you 9A's fuel pump is ideal,no need to change it,just change the fuel filter and check the fuel press.secondly i wouldn't use the Audi exh.manifold as it's very restrictive and kills top end 'cos the runners are too narrow in diameter compared to cheap eBay steel jobbies,the difference is very noticeable..injectors?,get a set off a scrapped Fiat coupè t.16v,they are 385cc Webers and are perfect. Injection?, either get hold of a wiring loom from a cosworth sierra or any Lancia delta integrale and modifiy it to fit,the map contained in the original delta eeprom is vertually perfect for our engines anyway.Pistons?,either modifiy your own 9A one's or get a set of forged pistons or double up on head gaskets(ABF steel versions and NOT the fibre crap).Do a double exhaust cam mod and prefrebly a 2.5 or even better full 3" exhaust system and you'll be good to go. Then start worrying about the gearbox exploding,spinning 1 wheel,having to uprate brakes,suspension,tyres...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites