Graphite 0 Posted January 19, 2012 Hi all, After getting my raddo so close now to how I want it I am finally getting round to tackling the whole spoiler issue. My spoiler currently only goes up on the switch so I think the motor is probably shot on the retract side of things. I have a spare motor which I am going to fit and check if it then goes up and down on the switch again. I have tried several spoiler control modules and switches from other cars in which they worked. I have also bought a set of clocks which came from a car in which the spoiler worked. If it does I want to investigate further... My rado is a cross over J reg, so 1991 and I have a few questions. Am I right in saying that the speedo sensor is an electronic signal (i.e it is converted to a digital impulse before it reaches the clocks)? If so, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the whole spoiler circuitry? If the clocks and the control modules both have been ruled out, where is the fault likely to lie. Is it pre or post control module? Are there any earths hidden away on the system that could be incorrectly grounding preventing it from working correctly? I know this has been done to death but I can't find the answers to these questions from what I have read. Help would be greatly appreciated. Troy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted January 19, 2012 It does sound like the mech, to be honest. Check if it's still the same with the new motor first though... The most obvious way to test them is just to unplug it from the loom. The connector is made out of one male and one female space terminal - to test my replacement mech before it went in I just crimped the appropriate spades onto some long bits of thick wire, pushed them onto the spoiler's two terminals and touched them to a battery - having the wires round one way extends it, and the other way retracts. It should automatically stop when it's fully in/out (unless the limit switches are knackered) even if the voltage is still present. Give that a go - if the mech is fully working with the new motor then the fault has to be somewhere in the wiring between spoiler and control module. Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Graphite 0 Posted January 19, 2012 It does sound like the mech, to be honest. Check if it's still the same with the new motor first though... The most obvious way to test them is just to unplug it from the loom. The connector is made out of one male and one female space terminal - to test my replacement mech before it went in I just crimped the appropriate spades onto some long bits of thick wire, pushed them onto the spoiler's two terminals and touched them to a battery - having the wires round one way extends it, and the other way retracts. It should automatically stop when it's fully in/out (unless the limit switches are knackered) even if the voltage is still present. Give that a go - if the mech is fully working with the new motor then the fault has to be somewhere in the wiring between spoiler and control module. Stone What type of battery? Car battery 12v or something else? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted January 19, 2012 I used my car battery but it might be a bit of a squeeze if the spoiler's still fitted ;) You just need 12V - I'm guessing at an amp or so. Keep the wires under about a couple of feet long, otherwise there might be a bit much resistance and they'll heat up - same deal as jump starting. Probably easiest to get another car up nice and close, unless you have a spare battery kicking around... Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted January 19, 2012 1991 Spoiler Circuit [ATTACH=CONFIG]51129[/ATTACH] . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Graphite 0 Posted January 19, 2012 1991 Spoiler Circuit [ATTACH=CONFIG]51129[/ATTACH] . Thats awesome, that will certainly be helpful.. It mentions a speed signal relay junction behind the relay panel. Anyone have any idea what this looks like? This is helping a bunch guys! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted January 19, 2012 (edited) It will just the wire going into a small common electrical block, nothing special. Follow the wire from the spoiler controller by the headlight switch. Thats the easiest way to find it. The speed signal comes into K. K is derived from the back of the instrument cluster on connection T28/pin 7 (lilac wire). That signal enters the cluster on pin T28/pin 27 (white wire). It outputs on T28/27 goes to fuse relay panel plug U1/pin 11 and exits on plug G1/pin11 to the speed sender pin 2 (white wire with blue stripe). . Edited January 19, 2012 by RW1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon green 5 Posted January 19, 2012 If you have to rebuild the mechanism,this might help http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?p=660022 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
