whats good for treating rust?

[robo22sri 10]

As title says!

 

What is good for attacking rust in hard to reach places?

 

I was looking at POL 15 but heard mixed reviews about it :(

[Jim Bowen 1]

I bought all the POR15 stuff to do mine, marine clean, metal ready and then the anti rust paint.

 

Only tried it on a little bit in my tailgate and the paint goes on really nicely and dries really smooth. But to colour over it you need to rub it down with fine sandpaper first. i plan to do this.

 

The metal ready is a bit weird to get used to, as its watery and you don't let it dry.

 

Am not a fan of hammerite and won't be using that on a car..

 

You could also use a rust treatment like the loctite one, i use that too and its much easier to apply/work with

[robo22sri 10]

Some one told me to use bilt hamber deox gel

 

but i want to seal and paint over it also!

 

---------- Post added at 3:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:20 PM ----------

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cname=Corrosion Prevention&name=electrox Patch Repair Kit

 

What about this?

[Jim Bowen 1]

i also have that deox gel, i wouldn't use it on bodywork, i don't find it very good and you need to stop it drying out.

[Storm Guy 0]

Dinitrol RC800 does a good job for hard to reach places. http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/classic_cars.aspx

Priming required for painting, but leaves a nice black finish for those many hidden areas that may not need painting. Frost online not bad.

[carrots 1]

just put kurust on mine it turns the rust black

[seanl82 23]

just put kurust on mine it turns the rust black

 

I've always used this with good results. Cant say its good for hard to reach places though.

[coullstar 0]

K rust is crap, the deox gel is perfect. You need to wrap clingfilm over it to stop if drying. It works really well and acutally gets rid of the rust. All you need to do is seal the area after with paint then Por15.

[aide 0]

deox-c is a rust dissolver/ remover, it doesn't treat rust, its more suited to soaking rust from parts and the solution works a treat, but the gell isn't great.

 

i'm a convert to 'vactan' rust treatment, basically remove as much as rust as possible with wire brush then paint it on affected part. both the army and panel van boys use it, you can even use a straw to blow it into seams.

[volksworld13 0]

jenolite is another rust inhibiter that is good, and zinc 182 antirust primer made by upol.

[iow_corrado_g60 0]

With rust I really think its something you need to do properly, things like kurust simply delay it a while dependant on climate.

 

1. remove the rust with wire wool and a very low grit(120) wet and dry till you get back to the metal if just light surface rust you wont need any filler. (After this is when I mask around the affected area.)

 

2. use a zinc primer and sand back once dry, repeat a few times for a generous covering.

 

3. then personally I find it best to use UPOL acid etch primer and sand back once dry, this is slight overkill but with rust its worth it, the more zinc protection the better.

 

4. use UPOL High 5 primer very adhesive and a good finish, and sand back once dry.

 

5. Once all primer has dried and been sanded, wash the affected area and leave to dry again.

 

6. spray car with colour needed leave a good hour between coats you should only need two, then leave for a good few hours.

 

7. clear coat whole area in a thick layer but in short bursts as the Lacquer dries quite quick so watch for running.

Also when shaking can, keep away from vehicle, otherwise you'll find odd drips will fly off and land on your car

 

8. To blend into original lacquer, use some quality car polish, does act as very gentle abrasive will remove excess paint spray. Wet and dry paper even 2000, I found too harsh for this process.

 

There's probably a much more detailed in depth guide just have a search on the www ;))