cracking noise when on full lock ,

[CazzaVR 0]

Any news on this?

 

Had mine on the MOT wobble machine the other day, and it made the noise. They reckon it's probably the wheel bearing as everything else seemed fine...

[owen g60 10]

I'm still leaning towards cv joint as I have slight play in my drive shaft. Still waiting on inner joint to be delivered at the moment before I can do it

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

my rear wishbone bolts {on both wishbones }werent overaly tight, they were tight ish but maybe loose enough to cause a noise, havnet had a chance to drive it yet ,

when i heard the noise last it sounded like it came from towards the passenger side and it was a crack!! like metal clicking in and out ,so i was thinking maybe it could be the metal sleve that the wishbone bolt goes through twisting as it wasnt overaly tight? , i already replaced the outer cv joint on passenger side as the boot was split,

so maybe ill do the inner aswell, if i stripped it down you think there would be signs of damage visible? but yea i too would be thinking cv joints as its full lock related and happens when on the move, i tryed going full lock either way stationary for about 10 times either way and i got no funny noises

Edited May 18, 2012 by VW_OwneR_85

[owen g60 10]

This is exactly what mine does.

Only at low speed going either forward or reverse

[Rams 0]

I have the same issue and I'm convinced it's spring/suspension related. The bolt underneath the top mount bolt with the 2 cut outs that needs a special tool, I'm thinking these have been over tightened or loose and when steering its causing the top mount to move or actual shock movement below the top mount causing the clang. Happened earlier this evening doing a reverse 3 point turn.

 

I've bought the tool and once I find the torque setting for the suspension nut and top mount nut I will report back. Too tight and your pushing against the bearing under the top mount and if it not turning freely - ie been done up with a power tool could be the issue. I seem to hear it more from the drivers side.

 

Failing that, my next thought would be rack/union. The steering on my C is quite heavy.

[dochy 0]

sounds like a broken spring to me but im no expert.had this before also and the bottom part of the spring had broken off right inside the lower cup and was not noticable.even passed an mot.it just left a sharp edge which caught the cup on full lock!

[CazzaVR 0]

Duncan, that had crossed my mind...

[dochy 0]

great minds think alike andy lad!!

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

i got new weitec shocks with new top mounts and bearings, also if it was a problem with either the springs/bearings it would make that noise when stationary steering full lock both ways, i did this the other day 10 times either way and it was silky smooth, mine only does it when crawling forward/backward on full lock like in a 3point turn, you know what,next time im out in the C im gona get myself into a big empty car park , and drive around on full lock! if its cv related then it should crack like an absolute biotch!

[davidwort 0]

don't hold it hard on full lock for long, no good for the PAS system :) just off full lock would be better :)

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

havent tested it in a car park yet, but it still makes the noise after tightening wishbone bolts up , also only seems make the noise when the wheels are turned over to turn left,

[24V Renshaw 0]

Just a thought, but is it something to do with the track rods being adjusted on both sides at some point in the cars life, rather than just the correct way of adjusting one side. So when full lock is applied its reaching the limit of the rack travel and loading it up causing a "lift" and the cracking noise...

[Jim Bowen 1]

Is there a proper way to setup the track rods when changing the rack, built mine up but know the rod lengths are wrong. Which one doesn't adjust and is there a length it should be from factory?

 

Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk 2

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

i kinda see what your saying, so the left side when on full lock is under more pressure then the right when on full lock, but wouldnt it of made the cracking noise when i tested whilst stationary?

[dr_mat 0]

Yeah, I wouldn't worry about that myself. Stick to the bearings/UJ.

Edited May 23, 2012 by dr_mat

[owen g60 10]

Think I've found the cause of the clicking.

 

I had coilovers fitted by a previous owner.

Turns out the washer that should sit below the spring top plate hadn't been fitted on either side.

Fitted the washers and the clicking has now gone :)

[hipcity 10]

I have the same issue - got it checked out and was told that its the CV joints "outers" - both need replaced - bought two from a supplier for £30 each and going to get the fitted on wednesday - lets see if this fixes it????

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

I have the same issue - got it checked out and was told that its the CV joints "outers" - both need replaced - bought two from a supplier for £30 each and going to get the fitted on wednesday - lets see if this fixes it????

 

is your car lowered by much? , keep us posted on its progress,

[hipcity 10]

Hi - yip - its lowered a fair bit -

 

will come back a soon as its done :-)

[hipcity 10]

I got the two CV Outers replaced today and no more clicking :-)

 

30 each for the CV outers

50 to replace

 

So £110 all in - not bad

[CazzaVR 0]

Finally got mine sorted- was the o/s/f bearing + hub. Bearing knackered, hub worn. The n/s bearing started to go a couple of days before it was due to go in, so got that done at the same time.

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

cool glad its sorted, havent even been bothered to look into mine yet, iv only driven it a handful of times, by the looks of it , cv joints will be the place to start on mine, had new wheel bearings not so long ago

[jonnykillpop 10]

cool glad its sorted, havent even been bothered to look into mine yet, iv only driven it a handful of times, by the looks of it , cv joints will be the place to start on mine, had new wheel bearings not so long ago

 

Had new CV joints on my VR6 when bought it, though mechanic said were ok, and cured knock on full lock, and when pulling away with any lock, they were knackered when got out, pulling off with any power on lock on does it i'm told.

I\ve also got a 3.1 Capri and a crack on lock is dead common on them it's the top mounts turning and the springs not going all way with them and snapping back, moving in the cups, should'nt really happen on corrado's but maybe could if top mounts or roller bearings bust