Finally finished the corrado, got a few issues

[Jim Bowen 1]

Well after 18 months it starts and drives. Quite pleased with myself as had never even changed a brake pad before.

 

Its a long list of bits i've changed, so expected a couple of problems.

 

Some pics

 

Took it out for a quick drive, not washed it yet, but it works (most of it)

 

 

Paintwork shot :lol:

 

Interior is pretty much the same, minus aircon

 

New steering wheel is on my list

 

Non-winter wheels in storage :!

 

 

 

Now the problems i've got:

-Handbrake light constantly on? Expecting it to be a switch somewhere or something seized, i've not touched the rear brakes in 18months, discs looked quite rusty.

-Oil temp, it comes on, gets up to 66c then falls back down and registers as nothing, just the three lines - - -. Not sure what that could be.

-ABS light stuck on, guess i need vagcom to solve this one, tbh its never worked, Bulb was cut out of dash and it was disconnected at the master cylinder, i bought a new dash light and fitted 2no front sensors and plugged the sensor back in on the master cylinder.

-My clutch seems to have a really low biting point, i remember it being like this before the work i did, i had clutch off to do timing chains, it was new about 10,000miles ago

 

Any help would be great

[Goldie 2]

There must be a switch for the handbrake, it will be sticking.. Cant imagine anything else other than that. Im assuming your back wheels turn freely by hand if you jack it up?

 

I would get it scanned to clear the ABS fault or determine exactly what it is..

 

I don't know how but is the clutch travel not adjustable?

 

On a side note, good for you taking all this lot on, i like your wheel bags and I'm glad you said you hadn't washed it or you need some serious car washing lessons....

[dragon green 4]

Handbrake switch light is also the low fluid level on the brake master cylinder, may just need contacts cleaning !

I had to put a new cap on mine to cure same symptoms

[Jim Bowen 1]

Cheers Goldie, it was still your green one that inspired me, i still think about it when working on mine :)

 

I got the wheel bags from Neil on here, and the winter wheels/tyres, got steelies with winter tyres for the rear, but am trying to get some alloys instead of driving on steels

 

---------- Post added at 1:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 PM ----------

 

Going to check the fluid, totally overlooked that, i had tried to bleed the brakes, they work but only just and i filled the fluid up with car in the air.

 

Thanks

[Portent 0]

That looks fantastic. well done.

[Billzeebub 1]

Never get tired of looking at photos of other peoples Corrados..well done with it, lovely original looking car. Regards the steering wheel wear, the only part of my car that looks tired and worn is the top part of my original 3 spoke wheel. Everything else works and looks immaculate, but the wheel looks like its been to the moon and back!!! Car has quite low miles (119k) FSH and fastidious previous owners, yet it's still **** poor (all dull and grey looking)!..must commit to a wheel refurb, post up if you go this way and how you do it/ who does it?!..

[Jim Bowen 1]

I am tempted to buy another wheel and then get mine redone, saw a nice one one here before with a more modern leather on it, looked nice. Think it had perforated leather on it.

 

Mine has done 194,000miles now, the steering wheel is pretty rough now. Was a bit mouldy at one point. Replaced the pedal covers and gearstick already as they were in pieces.

 

Going to order a new oil temp sender, the wiring looks alright and the fact it takes a temp then goes up and down suggests something faulty. Am i right in thinking i get some other warning if its an oil pressure warning?

 

---------- Post added at 4:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:36 PM ----------

 

Brake fluid was fine, although i suspect i have some air in the system

[Goldie 2]

My one has perforated leather and it looks the part, i would highly recommend going this way to bring it up to date..

 

Oil pressure warning is an audible alarm...

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Handbrake warning light switch is on the floor under the handbrake lever IIRC. Mine got stuck down once, many moons ago. As already mentioned, the brake warning light is also shared with the fluid level sender....I think! God my rado knowledge is rapidly fading now I don't have one!

 

ABS - hmmm, it always worries me when people cut the light out as it usually means something more drastic than a failed wheel sensor but as said already, VAG-COM will tell you what's what.

 

Oil temp - I'd replace the sender or check the connection.

 

Clutch biting point - Yeah it will be low if the clutch is new / recent. You probably just forgot about it if you've been roaming around in that Escort for a while? :D I prefer a low biting point as it makes traffic work nicer. A really high bite means the clutch is on it's way out!

[Jim Bowen 1]

:lol: well the escort clutch has been slipping for about 10,000miles and is really high, i guess i am just too used to that now. Corrado felt low, stiff, bumpy, creaky and a bit rattly but am sure i'll get used to all that again.

 

Just been searching the forum about oil sensor and think i will check the connections first as i've disturbed both ends of that wire doing the work i did.

 

Been reading about ABS and not sure i've ever heard it when i turn ignition on, i hear something but thought thats the fuel pump. I'd be happy to just ditch the ABS system but i'm guessing its not that easy

[tonytiger 0]

Clutch pedal travel might be affected by the hydraulic fluid level - but not sure if it's all or nothing with the clutch pedal.

 

Edit - forgot to say, congratulations on getting to this point! Must have been great to get it out on the road. If it's been 18 months, I guess it's not MOT'd right now - hope that goes well once you get the last obvious bits and bobs sorted.

Edited November 16, 2012 by tonytiger

[Jon_vr6 1]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_nkw=corrado&_sacat=0&_odkw=vr6&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_ssn=carsdream_com

 

Got my steering wheel from here prices are on an exchange basis and he is based in Germany

[Jim Bowen 1]

Clutch pedal travel might be affected by the hydraulic fluid level - but not sure if it's all or nothing with the clutch pedal.

 

Edit - forgot to say, congratulations on getting to this point! Must have been great to get it out on the road. If it's been 18 months, I guess it's not MOT'd right now - hope that goes well once you get the last obvious bits and bobs sorted.

 

Cheers :) i am very happy with it, definitely fixed more problems than i'm left with, the steering was getting stuck going round corners before.

 

---------- Post added at 5:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:21 PM ----------

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_nkw=corrado&_sacat=0&_odkw=vr6&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_ssn=carsdream_com

 

Got my steering wheel from here prices are on an exchange basis and he is based in Germany

 

That looks decent enough deal, did you need a puller or anything to remove old wheel?

[Jon_vr6 1]

Nope just one bolt behind the steering wheel horn push needs undoing and dont lose the washer as you pull it off, make sure you read whether its a leather one or plastic one covered in leather, you want the leather one no difference in feel but it looks alot better at the back

[Jim Bowen 1]

I think i solved the oil temp problem, the wire was hanging off the sensor by a thread, broke as soon as i touched it, so sorted that out.

 

Still not solved the handbrake light, switch isn't stuck down. Am going to disconnect ABS again to see if that makes a difference.

 

Also, is the oil light meant to flash with ignition on, engine not running, i can't remember

[Stonejag 10]

Also, is the oil light meant to flash with ignition on, engine not running, i can't remember

Yes, it is. No oil pressure when the oil pump's not running :)

 

The ABS light should turn off and back on again when you turn the key and again when you start it. If it doesn't do that it'll most likely be something at the ABS ECU end. Try holding the brake pedal down as you start it - you should get a couple of seconds' pause with the light on, and then feel a clunk from the pedal as the light goes off. If you get an immediate clunk then it's shut off immediately which narrows it down a little...

 

Stone

[Jim Bowen 1]

Will have to investigate it I unplugged the sensor on top of the master cylinder and it solved the handbrake light issue.

 

Abs light is always on and I can't hear any abs pump when I turn the key.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Put the ABS back to how it was, so should be able to get MOT, just booked it in for Friday.

 

Tried to set the camber up myself, seems to have negative camber on the rear so set the front to match that, as best as i could with a spirit level, an adjustable set square and my galaxy s3. It a bit over 1degree and a bit under 1.5degree :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Not bad for a guesstimate /\ :D

 

As a rough guide, the fronts have slightly less negative camber (visually) to the rear wheels when looking down the side of the car. If it looks that way and the same on both sides, it won't be a million miles out! Obviously there's no substitute for 4 wheel lasering, but it'll get you there without wrecking the tyres.