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Hofmiester

Ron's Blackberry VR6 - A11 VRX - Getting her back on the road

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Spent some time making this last night. Auto meter gauge is a good match for the rest of the dials, Green illumination and orange needle.

 

vebyvaqe.jpg

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Are you doing the install yourself? There are a couple of bits I can think of.

 

1) MAF location - All the VF kits mount the MAF on the end of the charger intake pipe, which is only about 12" away from the impellor. Most people find that their car idles rough when the MAF is located here. The issue is that on the Corrado, there is very little room and so they put the MAF 12" away, stick a filter right on the end (which also doesn't help with MAF readings) and that's it. I did a LOT of reading on this and by relocating the filter to the otherside (in the Passenger side bumper corner) and putting the MAF further away from the charger, you can get a very steady idle. Mine idles smother than it did with a stock airbox!

I used a Neoprene flexi tube (I paid more for the double skin) like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140671550957?var=440038041992&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

You can just set my setup in this pic

3u6yhupa.jpg

We also wrapped some silicone pipe around it in the places where it touches the cross member (it is tie wrapped into position)

 

2) Reduce the complexity of the intake system as much as possible to help reduce the chance of boost leaks etc. In my case I ditched the rocker cover PCV and went with a oil catch can. Originally I just stuck a breather filter on there but I got some really bad fumes and so I mounted a can and then routed the air vent down behind the wing....no more smells. This then frees up the vacume nipple on the TB to be used for you Diverter Valve and Boost Gauge. I wasn't really happy with tapping the Brake booster vac supply as it means you need a really long vacume pipe to stretch across the engine bay.

 

3) Remove the driverside headlight, makes the install soooo much easier

 

4) If your car has the oil feed line/return, make sure you route it carfully so it doesn't rub on anything while driving

 

5) You may have to remove the bracket for the fuel lines that supports them just before they go into the rail. On the V9 charger it was very tight and so we removed the bracket and cut a circular groove into the V9 backet for the fuel line to pass by.

 

No idea how i missed this reply, sorry man i wasnt being rude! thats absolutely great help. As far as fitting goes, luckily one of my closest friends owns a VAG only tuning company OBD-Works so he has made a free week for me and i booked it of work so we are spending next week together taking the entire engine out, doing the clutch flywheel charger kit, tucking the loom spraying many bay components etc etc... so it should be a fun week and ill learn alot along the way. He built some truly gorgeous show winning cars so its nice to have the confidence in proven quality workmanship. (i always rate him with the highest regards) check out his page! :)

 

Spent some time making this last night. Auto meter gauge is a good match for the rest of the dials, Green illumination and orange needle.

 

vebyvaqe.jpg

 

This is RUUUUUUUUUUUUUDE! make me one please :D

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Are you doing the install yourself? There are a couple of bits I can think of.

 

1) MAF location - All the VF kits mount the MAF on the end of the charger intake pipe, which is only about 12" away from the impellor. Most people find that their car idles rough when the MAF is located here. The issue is that on the Corrado, there is very little room and so they put the MAF 12" away, stick a filter right on the end (which also doesn't help with MAF readings) and that's it. I did a LOT of reading on this and by relocating the filter to the otherside (in the Passenger side bumper corner) and putting the MAF further away from the charger, you can get a very steady idle. Mine idles smother than it did with a stock airbox!

I used a Neoprene flexi tube (I paid more for the double skin) like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140671550957?var=440038041992&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

You can just set my setup in this pic

3u6yhupa.jpg

We also wrapped some silicone pipe around it in the places where it touches the cross member (it is tie wrapped into position)

 

2) Reduce the complexity of the intake system as much as possible to help reduce the chance of boost leaks etc. In my case I ditched the rocker cover PCV and went with a oil catch can. Originally I just stuck a breather filter on there but I got some really bad fumes and so I mounted a can and then routed the air vent down behind the wing....no more smells. This then frees up the vacume nipple on the TB to be used for you Diverter Valve and Boost Gauge. I wasn't really happy with tapping the Brake booster vac supply as it means you need a really long vacume pipe to stretch across the engine bay.

 

3) Remove the driverside headlight, makes the install soooo much easier

 

4) If your car has the oil feed line/return, make sure you route it carfully so it doesn't rub on anything while driving

 

5) You may have to remove the bracket for the fuel lines that supports them just before they go into the rail. On the V9 charger it was very tight and so we removed the bracket and cut a circular groove into the V9 backet for the fuel line to pass by.

 

No idea how i missed this reply, sorry man i wasnt being rude! thats absolutely great help. As far as fitting goes, luckily one of my closest friends owns a VAG only tuning company OBD-Works so he has made a free week for me and i booked it of work so we are spending next week together taking the entire engine out, doing the clutch flywheel charger kit, tucking the loom spraying many bay components etc etc... so it should be a fun week and ill learn alot along the way. He built some truly gorgeous show winning cars so its nice to have the confidence in proven quality workmanship. (i always rate him with the highest regards) check out his page! :)

 

Spent some time making this last night. Auto meter gauge is a good match for the rest of the dials, Green illumination and orange needle.

 

vebyvaqe.jpg

 

This is RUUUUUUUUUUUUUDE! make me one please :D

 

 

thanks again for the advice and help hof that kinda sh1t really does help!

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No worries mate and looking forward to hearing more about your finished car. The gauge pod is easy to make, took about an hour and a half. I can write up some notes if it helps you. You might want to buy a spare vent (I paid £10 from ebay) or use your own but I'd buy a spare.

Or you can buy one from SWG but they want £40! http://www.swgmotorsport.com/asps/ShowDetails.asp?id=261

 

I should be getting my car back any day now from the body shop.....I really hope they do a good job as I am really fussy and it will bother me if it's not perfect. Walter Bell has a great rep though and the fact he was painting an Aston Martin last time I was there gave me confidence.

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Yer bodywork is always a tough one. I had mine done recently. Luckily once again I'm friends with the guys doing it. So after it was done and I inspected it. I took it back and we had another day just flaring back a few bits again and polishing it. Paints one of those things that will make or break a car. Did u go for the original colour or something wild?

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Just original Blackberry. I had a rotten passenger wing and the only rust free one I could find was Dragon Green. Plus the bonnet that came on my car had a few dents and was stone chipped so I bought another but while in good nick, the shade of paint didn't really match.

 

So I'm having the front end of the car painted, also got a set of freshly refurbed RH Cups in Anthracite to go on.

Edited by Hofmiester

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Just original Blackberry. I had a rotten passenger wing and the only rust free one I could find was Dragon Green. Plus the bonnet that came on my car had a few dents and was badly chipped so I bought another but while in good nick, the shade of paint didn't really match.

 

So I'm having the front end of the car painted, also got a set of freshly refurbed RH Cups in Anthracite to go on.

 

Nice man, sounds awesome. are you coming to the rolling road day next month?

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Sneaky peek at my car fresh back from the body shop. The paint hasn't been polished or waxed yet but looks great, sooo deep!

 

udyme8u5.jpg

a7e3u7uq.jpg

7upame5e.jpg

duta8a8y.jpg

 

He ended up painting a lot more of the car than planned. Basically anyone who has seen my car may have noticed how pink it was. Much more of a pink than Blackberry. Looks like it had already had a respray in the past but in a non VW colour.

 

So I've ended up with a full front, sides and rear paint job.....mega cost for just a small blob of rust at the bottom of an arch!

 

Need to get all the trim back together and then I'll get some proper pics up :D

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Looking sweet Ron one small piece of advice leave the paint for a week or two before any polishing/waxing as it will still be soft let it harden :thumbleft:

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Cheers, that's what Walter said too. It will probably take me a week to get all the bits and pieces back together as all the trim is off, badges etc

 

Jesus...I can't believe we've ended up painting most of the car

Edited by Hofmiester

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Quality Ron hopefully I will be able to live up to your standard's next year there will be some serious work going on with mine now ;)

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I look forward to seeing it mate! We need to try and get on the beers one night when there's a show :D

No danger regarding that mate be good to get it together with the other NEasterner's Lilfuzzer,Redborbet Vag-hag plus anybody else who would be up for it :wave:

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Got my home made gauge mount in today, fairly painless job for once!

 

Green illumination matches the dash really well.

 

azepuqy5.jpg

apuvutu2.jpg

 

Still not polished her yet. Paint is a week old so ready to wax tomorrow!

 

3y7uqy4y.jpg

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Started sorting out the suspension after taking the car for 4 wheel alignment. They have a hunter system at Revolution in Gateshead.

 

Needed two new track rods and ends plus my rear camber was too extreme due to the drop, not my choice as previous owner set up the KW V1s but platforms were seized when I tried to adjust.

 

Ended up cutting them off, cleaning the strut and fitting new ones.

 

ubyrunap.jpg

You can see that the threads had got loads of crap in them.

ahusuvy8.jpg

Like new...

5ebu8asu.jpg

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They came from KW, £14.50 each. I tried to claim it was faulty design and so I should get them free but sadly they weren't having it :)

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They came from KW, £14.50 each. I tried to claim it was faulty design and so I should get them free but sadly they weren't having it :)

How did you get in touch with them as I have tried without success to get some brakepipe bracket's that attach to the strut's :censored: Your strut's look brand new :cool:

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I have an email of a guy in customer services. Alan Hook [email protected]

 

The kit on mine was fitted in 2007 but the car has only done about 20k miles since then, all parts look very good but the bloody perches on the back we're full of grime.

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Nice one Ron I'll give him a mail. Have you polished/waxed car since you got car back from bodyshop? Any pic's?.Hopefully thing's will start moving on mine soon got a few thing's to sort but I'm looking forward to it strangely :bonk:

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No chance to polish yet, been on axle stands for the last week while I strip the various suspension and steering components.

 

Will be back on the road this week and ready for a photo shoot :)

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Probably better for the paint anyway Ron to be honest. Are you totally rebuilding this thing? :)

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