con rod bearings

[20valver 0]

Just been to get my G60 set up at CnR and they suggested that the con rod bearing need replacing.

 

Anyone had this done?

 

know how much work / cost is involved?

 

and what will happen if I just leave it.

 

oh I'm on 95,000 at the minute......

 

any advice would be much appreciated!!!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Bloody C&R.... they always do that. "Yeah your big ends are shot mate".

 

They've said that to me 3 times with 3 different Valvers and one of them had only done 40K!! They say it because it's just a case of dropping the sump and changing out the shells. A good little earner for them.

 

I've always told them to get stuffed. I'd advise you do the same.

 

They claim the engine doesn't sound right when revved, but it's bollox, trust me.

 

Knackered big ends cause a loud clonking when cold and fairly rough running when hot.

 

K

[GazzaG60 0]

i dunno. its a common G60 thing those bearings. can yuo hear any rattle coming from the bottom end on accell or decel

[20valver 0]

Well there certainly no clonking from cold and seems to run smooth when hot.

 

Thought it'd be the usual, get a little bit of work done, and then they'll 'find' a lot more that needs doin!

 

I think I'll give that one a miss then!

 

cheers Kev :wink:

[dr_mat 0]

You can hear the noise of knackered big ends by finding a clapped out Sierra (330k miles) being driven by a frugal mini-cab driver. Each time he pulls away in 2nd gear up that hill outside your house at 3am at 214.53 revs/min, you will hear his piston rods slapping about like a whale in a goldfish bowl...

The other type of mini cab driver prefers the 4000rpm method, and generally has shares in clutch companies.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah C&R are well known for that one.......

 

I can appreciate that G60s and 16Vs, any engine in fact, can lunch it's big ends but they generally last as long as the bores & rings, if not longer id the engine is well maintained.

 

The only time you'll prematurely bust your big ends is through oil starvation, whether that be from surging (round bends) or a low level in the sump, or both.

 

It only takes 3 or 4 seconds of dry running a 16V journal to bugger up a bearing. That's why VW put a plastic baflle in the sump!!

 

Makes me laugh....C&Rs method of diagnosing knackered big ends is to rev the engine and they say "Hear that?" Hear what? "The engine is going BRRRRRR, instead or RRRRRR", FBLOL! Idiots.

 

K

[VR6 0]

You can hear the noise of knackered big ends by finding a clapped out Sierra (330k miles) being driven by a frugal mini-cab driver. Each time he pulls away in 2nd gear up that hill outside your house at 3am at 214.53 revs/min, you will hear his piston rods slapping about like a whale in a goldfish bowl...

The other type of mini cab driver prefers the 4000rpm method, and generally has shares in clutch companies.

 

 

:lol:

[20valver 0]

can yuo hear any rattle coming from the bottom end on accell or decel

 

from cold there is no obvious clonking, however when you floor it there is a bit of rattling going on but its hard to tell where its coming from. if you let the engine rev up by dropping a gear but don;t give any gas there is no rattle....

 

anyone?

[dr_mat 0]

It's often hard to tell the difference between that and pinking, when the engine's running and warm.

[20valver 0]

I originally thought it was pinking, but now everything has been setup properly, and it's still rattling a little under load. I've currently got some 95ron in her though, so I'll go fill up with optimax and see what happens.

 

How much I am lookin at to replace the bearings?

[h100vw 0]

My G60 used to rattle at almost exactly 1900 revs. You could always hear it when in first. I live about 50 yards from some

traffic lights and I could hear it every morning if they were red and I didn't rev thru and change to second. You could hear it most on a neutral throttle.

 

The bearings cost about 12 quid from GSF, get a sump gasket too at another fiver. Most folk will tell you to replace the nuts and bolts on the conrods as they are the stretch kind. The Bentley manual states that you can reuse them once. Honestly they are cheap enough to replace. However, I never bothered and I leathered my Golf everywhere after doing the bearings and touch wood, it is still being battered to this day. Over 60000 kilometres later.

 

The only special tools required are a torque wrench that goes down to about 15lbs ft and some 1/4 drive sockets, which make getting the sump off much easier.

 

I reckon a first timer could do it in a couple of hours. If you change your own brake pads and suspension it would be easy. If you can't do that, pay someone to change them. 2 hours labour should more than cover it. Do an oil change at the same time for obvious reasons.

 

Gavin

[20valver 0]

Cheers Gavin! :wink:

 

I do quite a bit the car (always something to do!) Feel quite confident on the job following your advice. I think I'll give it a go one weekend.

 

Cheers again