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jedi-knight83

changing vr6 abs unit

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getting fed up with my abs light coming on and no one seemed to know what the error was (differential lock valve???)

 

there is an abs pump on ebay at present and a couple of vr6's for breaking so i may get one for a reasonable price

 

what is involved in changing this over? is it a 'do it yourself' job or 'specialist mechanic only'

 

thank you

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If the ABS does it's job on wet roads, I wouldn't worry about it personally.

 

It's not a DIY job to replace the main pump etc. Where brakes are concerned, I always leave it to the pros.

 

K

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but when the light is on i understood the abs wont work??? to be honest i havent tried it cause whenever im near a damp grassy area the light is never on.

 

it's something any able bodied mechanic could do then i guess??? dont want to pay wv prices though!!

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Particularly the ABS pump type stuff. At least do it with frequent reference to the bentley manual if you're going to have a go yourself.

The ABS pump itself contains a pressurized cylinder that contains brake fluid under thousands of PSI - if you don't release the pressure and this comes out explosively, the jet will cut through your skin...

Scared enough to get a specialist to do it?

I'd highly recommend it!

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Correctamundo - if the ABS light is *on* the ABS won't work.

If the light goes off at engine restart the ABS will work ok again - until the light comes back on again.

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The ABS light signifies a problem, it doesn't mean the ABS won't work, period.

 

For example mine flashed a little while ago, so I found a quiet road and jumped on the pedal. The ABS worked fine.

 

The light flashed because the pedal position sensor was dead. Nothing too sinister really......10 mins and £40.

 

I thought we agreed your error was related to the non-existent electronic diff lock?

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Correctamundo - if the ABS light is *on* the ABS won't work.

If the light goes off at engine restart the ABS will work ok again - until the light comes back on again.

 

exactly .....and knowing my luck...........the light will come on about 3 seconds before i actually have to use the ABS, so i'd rather get it changed.

 

I'll have a word with my mechanic to see if he can do it.

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I thought we agreed your error was related to the non-existent electronic diff lock?

 

hmm, i'll have to test it next time the light is on then. If its only gonna cost £50 for a second hand unit and pay mates rates for my mechanic to fit it i'll do it just to get rid of the orage glow of the abs light at night!! :roll:

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Kev, the "EDL valve" is one of the "push" valves in the ABS unit. These valves push extra pressure onto the line for a given front wheel. There's no diff-lock as you would normally understand it..

The other valves are "pull" valves - they reduce the pressure in that brake line.

It's worth fixing, as if it comes on at the MOT you'll fail...

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The ABS light signifies a problem, it doesn't mean the ABS won't work, period.

 

For example mine flashed a little while ago, so I found a quiet road and jumped on the pedal. The ABS worked fine.

 

The light flashed because the pedal position sensor was dead. Nothing too sinister really......10 mins and £40.

 

I thought we agreed your error was related to the non-existent electronic diff lock?

 

But if the light is on and stays on then its disabled, I tried it braking very hard and its the first time i've ever locked the front wheels...

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Dunno yet, man. He couldn't remember for sure, I'll let you know later on! :)

He said "about 190 lbft", but he wasn't sure..

He also didn't mention the width of the torque...

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Mind you it hasn't been chipped yet, so there's more to come I'd say.....

 

I would expect a higher peak torque than 190lb tho......you're probably getting that at 3000rpm! 40 more than standard, or there abouts :lol:

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Yeah, agreed about the chip. But it's slightly below "steering rack" on the list right now... As long as the car is torquey and driveable, and not pinking itself to death I'll be well happy.

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well, depends where the 190lbft is, doesn't it, Jedi..

stock car is 181 lbft at mid 5000 revs, but only 150 lbft at 3000 revs

if mine is now pushing 190lbft at 3000 revs that's 40lbft increase for my thousand notes..

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Ah but you're missing the point of the Shrek Nathan...... it's job is to shift the torque further down the rev range, not give you tonnes more, but many people find the Schrick does yield a healthy peak torque increase too, especially if it's been chipped and cam'd.

 

If just a schrick on it's own is enough to knock over a second off the 40-70mph time, I'd say £1K is well spent.

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yeah yeah yeah....im just jealous...

 

anyway back to MY problem. i have secured a abs unit (actually abs unit, heater fan assembly and heater dial panel (the bit with the prism rings)) for £55 :lol: so i will now hove to work out how much it will cost to change.

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Yeah, go for it.....do some enquiries for fitting etc. I'm not sure but you may even have to go to a brake specialist or the dealer to get it done..... some garages may not touch the job as it's the dreaded 'brakes' and they might be scared of comeback if it goes wrong..... check with Vince, I'm sure he's done one in the past....

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The verdict:

 

Right. power: 201.1 bhp @ 5900

torque: 192.7 @ 3713 ...

 

Exactly how I expected it. Around 30-40 lbft more between 2500 and 4000 rpm. Feels a lot more responsive and lively. :D

 

The timing chains are lovely, the suspension is marvelous, and it doesn't half shift... Now I just need a steering rack and the project is *complete*! :)

 

Oh, and Vince forgot to fit the top mounts I supplied, I found them in the back of the car.. (doh!) :)

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