Switched positive

[sankysvr6 0]

Just wired in my Alipine head unit, and I can't get it turn off completely when the ignition is turned off. Which means my iPod is constantly on.

 

I've metered the ISO connector on the car, and there doesn't seem to be switched positive. Is this normal, or could it be that there is something wrong with wiring loom.

[Jamie 1]

Try swapping the red and yellow wires over

[sankysvr6 0]

Don't think my problem is a simple as that.

 

My problem is that brown/red wire on the cars ISO connector is meant to be switched positive, but its not switching with the key out. It's 12v all the time.

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

Don't think my problem is a simple as that.

 

My problem is that brown/red wire on the cars ISO connector is meant to be switched positive, but its not switching with the key out. It's 12v all the time.

 

I think jamie meant you may find the switched live is on the yellow wire & the permanent live is on the brown/red

 

I recall having to do similar on a stereo install on my old nova sr many moons ago.....a quick sawp & all was well

[sankysvr6 0]

My problem is there is no switched live, on any of the cars ISO connector.

 

According to the wiring diagrams i have found on the net, the brown/red is meant to be switched positive. I have checked all the wires on the ISO connector, with multimeter.

 

Anyone know where the other end of ISO connector goes?

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

My problem is there is no switched live, on any of the cars ISO connector.

 

According to the wiring diagrams i have found on the net, the brown/red is meant to be switched positive. I have checked all the wires on the ISO connector, with multimeter.

 

Anyone know where the other end of ISO connector goes?

 

My apologies sanky - i got the wrong end of the stick

[sankysvr6 0]

Its not problem, all inputs help.

 

I am starting to think that standard wiring on the G60 doesn't have switched positive on the ISO connector, and i have to feed one in my self by tapping the wiring loom somewhere. As i have read other post on the net with the same problem.

 

Anyone with a 92 or earlier corrado had this problem, when fitting a new stereo.

 

Don't really want to tap in the original loom unless i have to.

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

its been a very long time but i dont recall having to wire a switchable live into my 1990 16v rado

 

i can have a look in the bentley bible this evening if i can find time & that would be any help to you :)

[Jamie 1]

Sorry mate I misunderstood what you were saying as well :)

 

Not come across this myself in any of the VWs I've owned. Not difficult to run a switched live from the fusebox so may be your best bet if there isn't one anywhere on the harness

[sankysvr6 0]

Can the wires on the ignition switch be put on wrong? As i know the ignition switch has been changed in the past.

 

Or is it just one big plug, on the back of the ignition switch.

[sankysvr6 0]

I take it nobody else has come across this issue before then?

 

Might have to look to see if i can find where the other end of the ISO goes, unless anyone knows. Would rather have the wiring all correct and present on the car then chopping it just yet.

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

I have not seen or experienced this issue in my current '95 rado or my old '90 rado & my gf has recently purchased a '95 storm & she did not have this problem either

 

also, when i changed my ignition barrel there was no need to touch any wiring at all - IIRC the old barrel clicked out once drilled in the correct place (to get to the release mechanism) & the new barrel just plugged in.

 

I did have a similar issue in a vauxhall nova i had a long time ago & i think i solved that be getting a standard stereo connector block from halfords & wired it in accordingly......however i remember there were wires for both switched & permanent live already there to connect to as i got them the wrong way round 1st time

[Dollyman 10]

I've jsut fitted a new HU in my 1986 Scirocco which didn't have a switched live. Fairly standard for VW's I'm told.

 

Just left it as is and use the on/off button on the unit. Seems to disconnect all bluetooth etc connections for me.

 

Cheers

Jeff

[Jim Bowen 1]

Is the iso connector not plugged into the original bit of loom?

 

What colours have you got there?

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

sanky - would it help if i took a picture of where my loom joins the connector behind the head unit?

 

it might help you ID if any of your wiring has been messed with

[daavid44 0]

hi, i dont know if this will help but i had the opposite problem with my car. i cound not get the switched +ve to come on. The switched supply for the head unit is controlled with a little button in the centre of the ignition switch and is pushed by the end of the key. my key was not pushing in far enough to press this little button. is it possible that yours is jammed?

[sankysvr6 0]

sanky - would it help if i took a picture of where my loom joins the connector behind the head unit?

 

it might help you ID if any of your wiring has been messed with

 

Yeah a picture might help, thanks

 

---------- Post added at 7:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:18 PM ----------

 

Is the iso connector not plugged into the original bit of loom?

 

What colours have you got there?

 

Do you where the ISO connecter plugs in the car loom?

 

---------- Post added at 7:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:20 PM ----------

 

hi, i dont know if this will help but i had the opposite problem with my car. i cound not get the switched +ve to come on. The switched supply for the head unit is controlled with a little button in the centre of the ignition switch and is pushed by the end of the key. my key was not pushing in far enough to press this little button. is it possible that yours is jammed?

 

Would that have caused the some of the electrics not work.

 

Going to take it all apart have another look, also try and get the glove box out.

[GrahamU 5]

Mine had the same problem, I looked into it and early rado's didnt have the aux switched live from the ignition fitted but the barrel/switch is the same for all. I just added the wire ignition switch.

 

I'll look it up and let you know which one to add it into

 

---------- Post added at 6:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:36 PM ----------

 

Position 'S' on the switch connector is the aux switched live

[sankysvr6 0]

Thanks All,

 

I will take a look at the switch see what's what.

 

Rado20vT, Couldnt you have just moved the brown/red wire to the 'S' position on the ignition switch?

[GrahamU 5]

Rado20vT, Couldnt you have just moved the brown/red wire to the 'S' position on the ignition switch?

 

To be honest, the rest of the car did what I wanted only the radio didn't so didn't think about moving any wires just adding one for the radio

[sankysvr6 0]

Can anyone tell me if they have a relay fitted in position 9, and what number they have on the relay.

 

Didn't want to start a new thread, as this could be to do with my switched positive problem.

[GrahamU 5]

Dont think relay 9 is populated over here

 

have a look here

 

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=44637.10

[sankysvr6 0]

A quick update on this problem.

 

Took the ignition switch out today and metered the wires at the ISO connector between the switched positive and positive, and there was no continuity.

 

So that was good, metered the continuity on the actual switch between 'S' and '30' and its showing as a dead short. So took the switch apart out of curiosity and there was a metal contact there that is meant to be attached to the plastic push thing, which wasn't attached.

 

It was just sitting there in the switch, I've managed to reattach it back on to the plastic thing and put everything back together in the switch. Just need to check it again with meter.

 

I've also bought a new switch as I don't really want to fit the same switch again, and for what it cost I think will better.

[sankysvr6 0]

Here is tear down of the ignition switch, if anyone is interested.

 

I would check any new switches for continuity between terminal 30 and S. You should only have continuity at these terminals when the key is pushed in, mine had continuity all the time as the contact had come off the black pole.

 

[st4stokie 10]

Here is tear down of the ignition switch, if anyone is interested.

 

I would check any new switches for continuity between terminal 30 and S. You should only have continuity at these terminals when the key is pushed in, mine had continuity all the time as the contact had come off the black pole.

 

That brilliant mate thanks :-)