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oxygen sensor fault

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Can someo e point me in the right direction of the oxygen sensor , iv had my vr up on a mates snap on ethos system and it threw up a fault code , 00525 oxygen sensor no signal intermitttent , is it worth just replacing the sensor and what kind of effects does this have on the car i havent noticed any problems apart from a bit a sluggishness when first fired up

Cheers in advance

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yes! pretty critical to proper running the lambda feedback from the sensor to the ecu and it won't do your cat any good, unlikely you'll get through an MOT either.

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Cheers david much apreciated , i dont suppose anyone has the right part number , iv just had a look on ebay and theres quite a few makes of them and not sure wich is best

 

Does anyone know where abouts the sensor is situated it looks just like the lambda sensor to me ! Or is it ?

 

---------- Post added at 3:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:34 PM ----------

 

Cheers david much apreciated , i dont suppose anyone has the right part number , iv just had a look on ebay and theres quite a few makes of them and not sure wich is best

 

Does anyone know where abouts the sensor is situated it looks just like the lambda sensor to me ! Or is it ?

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Oxygen sensor == lambda probe :)

 

021906265A

lambda probe / F >> 50-S-000 719

/ ABV,2E,ADY

 

021906265E

lambda probe / F 50-S-000 720>>

/ ABV,ADY

 

So get whichever suffix is correct for your chassis number (early/late VR6).

 

HTH

 

Stone

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yes! pretty critical to proper running the lambda feedback from the sensor to the ecu and it won't do your cat any good, unlikely you'll get through an MOT either.

 

Don't fall into the diagnostic read out trap of instantly replacing the sensor that has been listed. I'm not saying your fault isn't the O2 sensor, but that code could be indicating a wiring / terminal connector fault, ie broken wire. If this is the case and the fault is in the loom then replacing the sensor will not effect a cure. Before paying out coir a £100.00 on a new sensor it is worth your while carrying out a wiring continuity check.

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NTK sensor for my 8v was less than 45 quid (seems to be same part as VR), if the thing has never been changed it's going to be at the end of it's life anyway, and seeing as the wiring loom is mainly attached to the sensor then I'd definitely get a new one whatever.

Worth checking the connector plug to the main car harness though, but not sure what you should expect from what pins there (main car loom side), perhaps someone else can advise.

Ideally you want to get a friendly MOT station to test the lambda value for you, then you'll know for sure if the sensor is giving duff readings

Edited by davidwort

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Ahh this old chestnut, I wouldn't go changing the lambda straight away, I have found a lot of times that the maf which is a more common pain in the arse tends to cause lambda faults. Basically the maf goes crazy and sends the fueling wild so the lambda sensor doing it's job tries to control it but can't keep it between the limits so throws the code up thinking lambda is at fault. I would check the maf is working ok before replacing the lambda

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Cheers caps ill have the lambda off at weekend then and take a look and see if there is any wires that are knackerd and ill give the plugs a good clean aswell and if that fails ill get a new lambda

As fir the maf hows best to test it , can i just get the car plugged in to obd on the diagnostics and pull the plug with the engine running or is it more technical than that , im dont think any of the two parts have been changed and the car has done 110,000 miles now

Cheers for the part numbers aswell thats great stuff

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Both bits should really be replaced 70k, they lose their accuracy and responsiveness over time and you'll probably notice a difference, with mpg too.

 

You might still have a wiring fault though!

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