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VR6 Gar

VR6 Gar's Flash Red VRT. SOLD

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What an awkward ******* of a job it was getting the wastegate bolts in, took me HOURS in the backing hot sun we had the week before last.

 

Then when putting the V band clamp back on the turbo - exhaust I was not getting a good seal. After a few attempts I stripped the threads FFFFUUUUUUUUUUU:censored:

Got a new one with a larger bolt and got it all back together on Thursday.

 

New rear Ferodo Premiers have been fitted.

Took a gamble on some new Ferodo DS2.11 racing front pads as they were cheap but they were too thick. Turns out the Wilwood superlite have 2 different thicknesses of calliper and I have the thinner one. This isn't a problem though as I know someone local who has offered to turn the down for me as they were clearance stock so I wan't to keep them.

Once I have them at the correct size I will be replacing the front discs Also.

 

New Kenwood HU has been fitted and looks like this.

KDC-BT52u_side.jpg

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Got a problem where the car runs very cool when cruising.

Sitting around 75mph will see coolant below 70degrees. This is a problem as it will be over fueling as it is in warm up mode below 70 apparently.

 

New 'stat fitted and no change, still runs cool when cruising.

Could be because the bumper around the number plate has been removed, however the intercooler is sat infront of the rad, so not much I can do about that unless I want to compromise intake temps.

 

Rad fans packed up as well so got a new rad temp switch fitted and now when sat in traffic the fans are working and the car doesn't even get to 90 degrees, even when the oil is at 96.

This is great if you are constantly blasting around flat out as the car stays cool, but when taking it easy its a bit of a problem.

 

After run pump has also packed up. Doesn't even come on when the ignition is turned, which in my mind points to the pump itself and not the yellow sender. This is a right arse as they are not cheap, however I will bridge the terminals first to see if it still works or not.

 

The T'stat housing was damaged when I removed it so replaced that.

Re-used the rubber 'o' rings for the 3 senders and got 2 to seal but the black one was leaking like a swine so just bought a new one.

 

Seems like everything that could go wrong with the cooling system has within the space of a week.

 

Replaced the plugs with some platinum NGK ones that a lot of people on Vortex use and recommend. Only £40 for the set which was very reasonable.

 

Lets hope thats it for a while as the car has been off the road longer than on so far in my ownership. I don't want to regret selling the S4 and buying this.

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You wont, this is what they are like though. Long spells of bliss followed by periods of frustration.

 

It did run relatively cold when I had it as well but then I preferred that to the other option.

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Have you managed to check the water temp the ecu is getting? My dash gauge reads low. Changed everything. Engine included. And still reads low. Bought a cheap vagcom and need to try again as I can't work it.

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Decided I wanted a grill badge, but thought I would try something a bit different.

£30 on a second hand VR6 badge and £7 on a new TDI badge, some tiger seal and some silver paint and here is the result. Happy enough with it, however getting the paint smooth was not easy so is a bit rough up close. May flatten it at some point with Wet and Dry.

 

 

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B10 VRT is available on DVLAs site for £400, L666 VRT is £250

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Yeah I looked into VRT plates but until all the other mods like Traction Control are done I can't afford it. Not ruling it out at some point in the future though.

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This turned up today, purchased from 'The_Dude'.

25mm 3 way adjustable Neuspeed rear ARB.

Gave the drop links a good wire brush as they were pretty rusty. Quick coat of Acid etch and silver paint and they look much better.

Just ordered some new longer lower shock bolts then its ready to go on.

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Considering the previous owner was a VW mechanic with access to cheap parts and a workshop not much in the way of basic maintenance was carried out on this car by the look of it.

 

Changed the NS rear wishbone bush today for a Lemforder R32 one and this is what I found.

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Front one looked really awkward and was still in good condition with no play so I left it in.

 

 

 

Loosened the driver side bolts then realised the front one would catch on the sump so have left it there for today. Will try and get it done tomorrow now I know how to get around this by raising the engine.

Thankfully all 4 wishbone bolts came loose with a 6ft scaffold pole being used as a breaker bar and didn't snap.

Edited by VR6 Gar

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Went out to bed my new front brakes in yesterday and they are very good pads, just got better and better the hotter they got. Not sure what they will be like from cold though, will find out when I next take the car out. Only thing is they are not the most progressive, as the car slowed the harder they broke. Good in an emergency stop situation I guess.

 

 

 

312mm Mtec disks and Ferodo DS2.11 pads.

 

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Volt gauge turned up today so fitted that.

Not got round to fitting the senders on the other 2 yet but will be getting them wired in soon.

The wideband gauge never worked since buying the car so ordered a new Innovate MTX-L and fitted it last week.

 

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Gauge tastic!! Is the wideband working okay now? I had to shave the pads I put in, they were Mintex IIRC and were good on track. I liked the brakes.

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Never managed to get the wideband working, think the control box may have been kaput, so I just went and ordered a whole new kit, the newer MTX-L version. Could have ended up being costly trying to figure out what was wrong with the old one.

 

Yeah, 1144 were in there but they had worn really unevenly, were getting low and the disks were almost smooth, so dead too. Think the brackets on the brakes are a bit thin and flex hence the uneven pad wear.

I also had to get the pads turned down. A guy off my local forum offered to do it for me. Luckily his boss was away as he ended up going through £100 worth of tooling :suprised:

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After a few weeks of problem free motoring the car decided to be a twat again.

Whilst pulling past someone pretty hard in 5th 2 weekends ago there was a bang then no drive. Initial thought was blown engine but thankfully it was only 5th giving up.

Going to pick up a cheap box off Langers shortly so I can swap the necessary cogs over. I expect to find all the teeth missing so may have to fish some bits of metal out of the box with a magnet, but hoping the oil drain will get the worst of it out.

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If anyone would be interested in buying this it may be for sale.

The 'box sounds rattly so is going to have to come off.

Unfortunately I just can't justify the money it will cost to fix as I am unable to do the work myself. The whole situation with the box has left me seriously questioning modified car ownership.

Would be a cheap VRT for someone who has the facilities to remove and fix the box themselves.

May advertise it properly in a few days for £5300, which for a car of this spec could be a serious bargain for somebody as I must have spent upwards of £700 in the short time I have owned it.

Original threads can be found here.

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=34842

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=49027

 

The car will come with a spare 02A box that came from a Passat owned by a middle aged man and some MTL redline oil.

Edited by VR6 Gar

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Box change shouldnt cost that much. I said it so many times when I had the car but when I fixed it and went for a run I just couldnt do it.

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The change on its own would be fine, it's the £670 on top of that for the rebuild I was quoted by the gearbox centre that makes me not want to bother if I could just sell it instead.

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5th went bang, which on it's own is fine, but it is also rattling quite badly, so it is going to have to come off.

Was going to take the end plate off today to have a quick look but forgot we are off to Wales to visit the other halves family.

Hopefully have a look next week weather allowing but doubt it is going to be fixable in situ.

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Messaged Cazza, think getting it back on the road is the best option to start with.

Not even sure the diff was working properly anyway.

when up on stands turning 1 wheel would make the other go in the opposite direction. When doing this on my old mk1 with quaife they both went the same way.

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Got the car back on the road yesterday courtesy of Matt and Jason of Volkscraft. :thumbup:

 

New box feels nice and tight with no gear crunches and the longer ratios make it far more pleasurable to drive. Cheers Andy.

 

Whilst the box was out Matt noticed a split vac hose that went to the fuel pressure regulator so stuck a connector in there.

 

Just been out and the car was peak boosting at......... 24psi :shocked!::shocked!::shocked!::bonk::bonk::suprised::eek::eek:

Thinking the split hose must also go to the same connector as the gauge so it wasn't reading accurately and the boost had been turned up.

 

Obviously why the car shat itself.

 

The diff was knackered as I suspected, drives exactly the same on this box as it did the other, so I will get the old box stripped down and the diff out ready to be shipped off to the states to be fixed under its lifetime warranty.

 

My love for the car has returned and it will no longer be sold in the near future.

Edited by VR6 Gar

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Hi buddy,

 

Glad to read things are getting better for you.

 

Also glad it's not for sale anymore as I've been keen on this car for years! This one would get me back into C ownership no problem!!!

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