16v Problems

[coullstar 0]

The head on my car was rebuilt last summer by the previous owner and I have noticed a few wee niggles with it that I am a little unsure about as I dont know much about the KR 16v.

First off I appear to only be getting an average of 26mpg even when driving sensibly. Second the car sounds like it is misfiring very slightly on cold starts.

Third after driving 50miles to work if I go out at lunch the car takes ages to fire and is reluctant to fire, its as if the engine is flooding.

 

I also seem to be getting a coolant warning intermittently.

 

I have checked the plugs and they are all the grey colour as normal. The only thing I have done is remove the airbox snorkel.

[coullstar 0]

Bump.

 

I drove the car for approximately 200 motorway miles and sitting at ~78mph my car would only return 29mpg. I am still only getting an average of 26mpg. This is as bad as my old Golf VR with no where near as much performance.

 

What the fecks going on?

[vr6storm 0]

Henny is your man for 16v KR problems...........pretty sure he'll be on later mate.....might be worth you giving him a PM too :wink:

[coullstar 0]

Ok I did a search and it seems it may be either the timing is one tooth out on the cam pulley or a dodgy throttle microswitch (wherever this is).

 

I intend on servicing the car this weekend and adding some engine cleaner to see if that makes a difference. Will also check the timing. Hope it gets better. :?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

What's it like in the mornings with cold starts? Does it catch straight away or takes ages and then splutter and mis for about a minute? No voltage to the cold start injector if that's the case.

 

If general consumption is high and performance low, your base CO could be out. I've done a guide for setting that on the fourm somewhere.

 

Failing that, could be the thermotime switch, which is the big brass thing bolted to the right hand side of the head with 3 wires around it. Might even be the control pressure regulator (next to thermotime switch with a grey plug on it) but that's a last resort as they very rarely pack up.

 

What does it idle like when hot? Bit slow and lumpy? Do the revs drop gracefully pulling up to junctions or do they drop like a brick?

 

I reckon it's your Base CO that's out. Takes about 5 mins to sort that :lol:

 

K

 

[edit - this assumes your cam timing is correct. The throttle switch is bolted to the throttle stop. You can hear it click as you open/close the throttle. It switches the idle stabiliser on and also pulses the over-run cutout solenoid]

[Henny 0]

You called Rodders? ;) :lol:

 

Arse, Kev beat me to it! 8)

 

I'd get the cam timings checked... sounds to me like you're either a tooth out on the cambelt, or possibly between the cams on the small chain...

 

Follow Kev's advice about setting the base CO level and have a look at the throttle switch, and if it's still no better, set the engine to TDC on 1 and check that the cambelt marks line up properly...

 

It's also worth getting your ignition timing checked out as some muppets retard the dizzy to stop pinking after a head job which causes the engine to be flat and horrible and also use more petrol than they should... :roll:

 

Good luck! 8)

[coullstar 0]

Cheers lads!! Some jobs for the weekend. :D

 

Engine starts perfectly 98% of the time. Its reasonably rough after start up ie slight missfire sound and feels really flat. Its ok coming into junctions. Main problems are the fuel economy and cold start lumpiness.

I actually like these little problems from time to time as you learn more about the car.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Arse, Kev beat me to it! 8)

 

LOL, too many cooks...... :lol:

[Henny 0]

nah, I've just been for a curry.... no cooks in this house tonight! :D :lol:

[coullstar 0]

I have been doing a bit more digging about and I think I might try and advance the timing till it pinks as they may have it adjusted for 95ron whereas I always use 98.

 

Normally how far physically do you have to turn the distributor before the engine starts to pink?

 

Is there a mark on the distributor cap that the rotor should be lined up with when at TDC on No1?

[coullstar 0]

Do you turn the dizzy clockwise (from passanger wing) to advance?

 

I take it I have to remove the black and red wire when doing this?

[coullstar 0]

I adjusted the CO at lunch but I was just wondering how far the screw has to be adjusted before the car runs too lean and valves start burning. I turned the screw ~ 1/4 turn clockwise.

 

I noticed that the engine died slighty when a light pressure was applied ontot the allen key.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You're not supposed to press down on the allen key as you turn it. It's connected to the airflap, so if you push on it, it lower the airflap altering the fuelling in the process.

 

Clockwise richens, anti-clock weakens.

 

You need to do it with the idle valve disconnected and idling at 950-1000rpm. Adjust the brass throttle screw if need be. Anti-clock to speed up, clockwise to slow it down.

 

You need to turn in 1/8 turn increments until the idle smooths out, then it's set.

[coullstar 0]

I didnt press down on the allen key when turning so that should be alright. Sounds like I have richened the mixture. The idle adjustment screw would not turn clockwise, only anit-clockwise.

[Tazkenny 0]

:?:

 

I turned the screw ~ 1/4 turn clockwise.

 

idle adjustment screw would not turn clockwise, only anit-clockwise.

 

 

Anyway good info, need to do this with my C.

[aks_uk 0]

Yep me too, looks like quite a few of us have the same prob then :|

[coullstar 0]

TazKenny I could turn the mixture adjustment screw clockwise but not the idle.

 

I only got 24mpg on the way home so I mucked about with a bit more with the adjustment. I think it will be better if I take it to an MOT place to get it done.

I did turn the distributor by by ~5deg but the car would not start. When I took the cap of to turn it back a load of pieces like caramalised brown sugar fell out . I will see what its like tomorrow but the exhaust still stinks of petrol but the plugs are nice and grey.

 

I have to get this sorted as I am visiting the petrol station too regularly.

[Henny 0]

a new dizzy cap and rotor arm sound like they're in your close future to me, coullstar ;) Caramalised crud normally is burnt insulation off either the cap or the arm, or, if you're really unlucky, it's oil that's seaped past the dizzy's seals and into the cap... :|

[kvwloon 0]

a new dizzy cap and rotor arm sound like they're in your close future to me, coullstar ;) Caramalised crud normally is burnt insulation off either the cap or the arm, or, if you're really unlucky, it's oil that's seaped past the dizzy's seals and into the cap... :|

 

....and if these are your next purchases, don't buy cheap Lucas ('the Prince of Darkness') or similiar bits, make you sure you get kosher genuine VAG / Bosch etc bits, well worth that few quid more!

[Henny 0]

well said, kvwloon, If I hadn't have just got back from the pub, I'd probably have remembered to put that in.... ;) :oops: :lol: :drinking:

[scruffydubbers 0]

i had what sounds like a simular problem on my old 16v turned out the be one of the HT leads.

 

have these been replaced recently? might be worth looking at too.

[coullstar 0]

I managed to get up to 28mpg coming to work this morning but the exhaust still stinks of fuel. I have leaned it of a little more but it nowhas a very slight rough idle.

 

If its the HT leads then there not cheap. I will give the car a good service (ooerr) this weekend and try to replace the dizzy cap and rotor and report back.

 

One question though - how do you replace the rotor? Is it a case of simply pulling it off? :oops: (All these sexual conitations)

[h100vw 0]

The rotor is likely to be glued on if it has never been replaced. You need the crush it with some mole grips to get it off. Don't hammer it or anything just squeeze till it falls apart. VW say to glue the new one on but I had never heard of one falling off.

 

Gavin

[coullstar 0]

Any ideas on price for a new cap & arm from VW?

[davidwort 0]

Any ideas on price for a new cap & arm from VW?

why VW? just get one from GSF or Euro Car Parts, nothing erong with them.

 

David.