Track day prep

[coullstar 0]

Witht the Knockhill track evening just over a week away I was wondering from the guys that have done a track day what are the best things to do to prepare the car and what basic tools are best to bring along?

 

What about things like tyre presures etc. Any experiences good or bad?

 

Is it worth while removing the rear seat? Bear in mind I have a 1.8 16v so I need to loose as much weight as possible.

[PhatVR6 0]

remove the rear seat, spare wheel, tool kit and passenger seat.

 

Take along as many tools as you can, and a trolley jack, and some spare wheels if you've got them (don't wear out your road tyres then expect to drive home).

 

A set of brake pads is also handy to carry with you.

 

Carry some oil and water too.

[coullstar 0]

I dont have any spare wheels so road tyres will have to do. They are only one month old anyway so there is plenty of tread as it is only an evening session not all day. Due to this then there is no way the spare is coming out, sods law and all that.

[PhatVR6 0]

take the spare out when you get there.

 

and it goes without saying that you should have breakdown cover...........

[h100vw 0]

I always run higher pressure in the tyres. Around 10PSI extra is my preference, it is a subjective thing. Don't forget to check all your wheels bolts are tight after each trip out. I nearly lost a wheel in just 2 laps at Elvington last summer!! And I had used a torque wrench too.

 

If its a while since you changed the brake fliud, I'd flush that out too. Halford do some DOT 5 or 5.1 which I like and it is resonably priced. If nothing else you want to be able to stop reliably..

 

Plenty of petrol is another must. Although the consumption of a 16V will be less than a G60, I'd say start with a fairly full tank, in excess of half anyway. You don't want to spend time getting more.

 

Also, don't leave the car with the handbrake on when you come off the track, Leave the car in gear. The rear discs can warp in extreme circumstances due to the different rates of cooling.

 

Always, do a lap at low speed just to gte rid of a bit of heat in the water system, drop the windows and wack on the blower too.

 

Get instruction if there is any

 

Gavin

[PhatVR6 0]

Why pump the tyres up more? that'll just encourage it to slide more.....

 

fine if you're doing autotesting and stunts, but not for on track surely?

[coullstar 0]

I thought you lower tyre pressures as they will soon heat up thus pressure the pressure will rise due to the excessive use?

[Joe M 0]

I ran standard pressures last time at Knockhill and the tread at the side of my front left tyre has really taking a beating. Next time im going to try a bit more pressure, the idea is that when your pushing it round the corners the the centre tread is putting more pressure onto the ground giving more grip and more even wear. (Thats the theory anyway.)

[PhatVR6 0]

I have eccentric top mounts for that.

[Joe M 0]

Is that the mounts that offset the damper to add camber?

[h100vw 0]

Why pump the tyres up more? that'll just encourage it to slide more.....

 

fine if you're doing autotesting and stunts, but not for on track surely?

 

You don't need the suspension effect of the tyres as much due to the (usually) smoother tarmac. Also, why go to the trouble of fitting uprated bushes and suspension and then leave soggy tyres.

 

I agree that over inflation will cause slides but you can fine tune the suspension with tyre pressures, if you have the time. Clearly 50 PSI all round is not going to help but up to 40 PSI in a 195/50-15 wont do any damage.

 

Yes, as well to the tyres getting hot affecting pressure and also grip. So don't be a hero on the first lap of the day! :roll:

 

An increase in negative camber improves turn in but needs to be done before setting the tracking, as one affects the other. Having more air in the tyre will still prevent the tyre from trying to peel off the rim.

 

Gavin

[andycowuk 0]

i ran standard the time i was on with joe as well, I have not noticed any wear issues. PhatVR6, I would be interested to here how your solid top mounts stop un-even tyre wear, i cant think how they will have an effect on that (thats may sound sarcasrtic - its not meant to be! - genuine question) - Joe they wont affect camber (unless they are adjusted after the camber bolts are set) only the king pin inclination angle.

 

Things i did before running on the track:

 

turned my struts up quite high

emptied ALL shite from the car, only my jacket was in the boot.

checked oil levels and water levels before I went

checked everything was tight

 

Also once you are on the track, I found that sinse its not a race, that the difference on the temps between totally ragging it to the red line, and changing maybe 700 - 1000 rpm early made a huge difference, the first session a went hell for leather, and saw oil temps up to nearly 130, once i noticed that changing early didnt make a big difference in speed, only 5 or 10 mph at the end of the straights, i never went over 120.

[coullstar 0]

The spare is definetly coming out on mine whilst running as I have a full size Sebring !! Suppose I will just leave that in the pits with all my stuff as i am sure there wont be any tea leafs floating around.

 

Cannot wait now!!! :D

[Joe M 0]

Also once you are on the track, I found that sinse its not a race, that the difference on the temps between totally ragging it to the red line, and changing maybe 700 - 1000 rpm early made a huge difference, the first session a went hell for leather, and saw oil temps up to nearly 130, once i noticed that changing early didnt make a big difference in speed, only 5 or 10 mph at the end of the straights, i never went over 120.

 

Agreed, makes a big difference to the brakes as well, my first run there was smoke coming off the brakes and I got huge fade, after that taking it slightly easier I was able to stay on the track for longer with not too much fade, no smoke then either.

[Joe M 0]

I might also remove my rear seats and spare, but depends on the weather, if its looking like being wet that night I dont think it will be a good idea to remove weight from the rear only.

[PhatVR6 0]

I'm running increased castor. So the more I turn the wheel, the more camber I get.

 

So the static camber, and straight line performance isn't affected by having to run lots of camber (i.e. like setting it at 2 degrees which would really affect a standing start) but as soon as I turn in, the camber is there and increases the more I turn the wheel.

 

So when you barrel into a turn, the tyre contact are is much flatter to the road, rather that rolling onto the outside edge.

 

The only downside being that is you're going slowly and using lot's of lock (like in a car park for instance) youget sh1t loads of tyre squel as there is no weight transfer tolting the car over on the tyre and it's only running on it's inside edge. But seeing as I drive hard a lot more often than I go to ASDA I can live with that. Also, you have to be gentle with the steering input when you're driving at very high speeds, as the steering can be a little too responsive unless your'e used to it.

 

The turn in is quite something, and I can't get the front end to wash out at all. In fact, I'm looking to find a bit more grip at the rear at the moment as it's a little tail happy now that the front end bites in so well. I just have to remember not to be so agressive with the stereing.

[Joe M 0]

Sounds like just what I need, are those the TAS ones? There websites down so where can I get some? What arbs's are you running? :?:

[PhatVR6 0]

TAS0624G mounts.

 

Standard VR6 ARB's

 

Powerflex bushes

 

Weichers lower strut brace

 

Eibach upper strut brace.

 

H&R suspension on the front, Koni's on the back (not coilovers).

[andycowuk 0]

PhatVR6, is the rumours about unbearable virations etc, the usual BS about uprated stuff?

[PhatVR6 0]

BS as per usual. I can count on one hand the amount of VW's I've seen running sperical bearing TAS top mounts. They don't ride any worse than rubber mounts. Poly bushes don't transfer any more vibration either. I can't feel it anyway.

 

Then again, I don't go driving over gravel, kerbs, and fields so I wouldn't know. They don't seem to grumble at the speedhumps in york.

 

I can feel slight vibration through the vibratechnics mounts, but it's barley noticeable.

 

Just remember, where ever you add comfort, you take away feel and response. Decide for yourself what you want from the car before you buy.

[h100vw 0]

I would agree with that statement, Andy. Poly bushes might not appeal to 99% of the driving population but on a 10 year old car, why fit std , most likely more expensive parts?

 

My Golf honestly never felt any different when poly bushed up. The back end felt a bit loose in the wet but only on greasy round abouts.

 

 

The only contradiction to my statements above apply to the poly front mount for a MK1 Golf. They transmit some truely nasty vibrations to the dash if the tickover is too low. :shock:

 

Gavin

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Poly is as subjective as tyres and suspension choices. I fitted Powerflex bushes to my MK2 16V Turbo and took them off a month later. They offered no handling advantages over new OE rubber that I could detect, they were noisy (even when silicon lubed) and they *did* transmit vibration into the car.

 

Maybe I'm more sensitive to it than other people but I felt it was bad enough to justify pulling them off and reverting back to stock.

 

You need a certain amount of compliance in the chassis otherwise you'll bounce all over the place on fast B roads, which let's face it, is a more regular occurence than a track day.

[andycowuk 0]

I would agree with that statement, Andy. Poly bushes might not appeal to 99% of the driving population but on a 10 year old car, why fit std , most likely more expensive parts?

 

I already have em, and damn hard springs....take a look at my spec, I am not afraid of a little vibration now and then..... Solid top mounts is about the only bush that i have never uprated to on any of my cars, past or present.

 

I have to agree with you about the mk1.... the rocco valver i have, gives me a sore head to drive around town..... but it was never intended for that purpose...thats thats like complaining about an umbrella not keeping me warm!!

 

You need a certain amount of compliance in the chassis otherwise you'll bounce all over the place on fast B roads, which let's face it, is a more regular occurence than a track day.

 

There is driving fast on a road, and driving as hard as you can on the track - two very different things. I 'try' not to drive fast on public roads, and keep it to the track...... There are (hopefully) less idiots coming the other way!!!!

So a car set up on the harder side of things is better for me (which was exactly you point kev!)

[PhatVR6 0]

Which bushes did you use? I've always stuck with Powerflex and never had any problems like that at all.

 

Bug pack (Prothane) ones are pretty hard though. My mates got them on his and it just never seemed as bearable as my old mk2.

[corozin 0]

My routine:

a) Remove all the stuff out of the boot (Stereo etc) and from the shelf too as many trackdays won't allow shelf mounted speakers for safety reasons.

b) Make sure all your tyres and brake pads have plenty left in them. Get a set of spare pads as Paul says & take them with you in case. Make sure you know how to chsange them!

c) Carry a box in the boot (which you can leave at trackside while you're out) containing : Socket set, screwdrivers, spare coolant, spare oil, spare brake fluid, a selection of Gaffer/duct tape (in case a hose goes). Also take a tyre pressure gauge, a pump if you have one. A trolley jack can make things a lot easier too if you have one.

d) Before leaving make sure the oil is up to the top mark on the dipstick (prevents oil starvation) and that all the other fluids are up to the mark, including the screenwash.

e) Make sure all the wheel bolts are torqued up correctly.

f) Check the condition of your brake lines. Your brake fluid will get get hot, and is capable of exploiting any weaknesses in the lines to cause a failure.

g) If you have/can get a small fire extinguisher, fit it into the car just in case.

h) After a run don't just come off the track and park the car & switch off, do a "cooling down lap" as you come off, park the car somewhere flat, without the handbrake on (which can seize if you apply it to very hot discs), pop the bonnet with the engine running and just let everything cool down for a few minutes with the engine ticking over. That way all the pumps & fans will continue to pump the fluid/air through the engine bay and cool the internals properly.

i) Find out if a tyre service will be available (in case you really muller a tyre), or where the nearest place to change them is if they aren't at track. Most well organised days will have a tyre fitter available with most sizes to hand.

j) Make sure your AA/RAC cover is paid up!

 

k) Above all have fun, work your way into the speed gently (ie don't try and set a lap record on your second lap!) and remember that Audi owners hate being overtaken by Volkswagens :twisted: especially owners of Audi TT's who seem to get very upset for some reason (I think it's cause they think their cars are quick or something!)

 

HTH - wish I could be up there with you but the new dates weren't right for me (I'm up on holiday in Leven in 4 weeks time) :(

John