kevinbowe2000 10 Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) Been wanting a Corrado for a long time (irish insurance premiums are insane) but thankfully since moving to glasgow, have got my hands on one. After some advice from Goldie (thanks again), I decided to get a project rather than a "finished" car. Have the car I want in my head and wont be happy until I get it. Picked it up from Elgin (Yans old project) and had a great 4hr drive back. Was raining and cops all over the place so couldn't enjoy the drive to the max or get any photos of her at some amazing views. On the way back, did have to stop once as had a bit of steam coming from the bonnet. Coolant level had dropped a bit so topped it up and got back on the road. All was fine from then on. Decided today to go on a nice sunday drive spin. Stupidly I forgot that Top Gear was on at the Hydro in Glasgow and got stuck in traffic for ages. Think that was lucky really as loads of steam started to spew from under the bonnet just before i got on the motorway. Just before she cut out got into a car park. Naturally had loads of car nuts around looking at the car and all giving me advice on what the issue was. Decided best bet was just get the AA out in case needed a tow back home (free with the bank account anyway). AA showed up and after telling me it was an air lock, then that the head gasket was ****ed (heart stopped), came to decide that the t-stat is most likely the issue and that the water pump should be replaced. Got it home anyway and have it parked up until tomorrow when I'll get someone to look at it properly. Anyone have any recommendations of a good garage to bring it to? AA told me of Ashwood just off Maryhill just is very close to where the car is parked. Live in an apartment so have no place to do work on it myself. Only pics of car currently are at: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=84084 Also if anyone knows of a good bodyshop as need a small bit of rust sorted before i get it either resprayed or vinyl wrap. Yan has kindly said he would supply photos of the work he did on the car before I bought it, so will upload them also when received. If anyone is looking for a copy of the Bentley factory manual, I have a pdf that is searchable (most I found the search doesnt work). Just send me a PM and I'll send you a link. Edited January 20, 2014 by kevinbowe2000 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted January 19, 2014 Not an ideal start, hope it is an easy fix.. Sorry for not answering in the pm but here you go.. Garage, i haven't used this guy but he was recommended to me by someone i know who has a lovely Rallye.. Anniesland Car services (0141 959 4387).. I think mine will be going there in the near future.. Body shop…Not sure, ill do some homework, I've never needed any bodywork yet so am no expert.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
easypops 8 Posted January 19, 2014 There is a body shop in the south side called Touch Ups, never used them myself but they get a lot of good feedback on Scotvag. If you register on there you'll be able to see some of their work. Another Glasgow Corrado :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted January 19, 2014 Ta for the info guys. Will give ACS a call tomorrow to see about the t-stat and water pump. Once I get the car running perfectly again will pop down to Touch Ups to get a qoute. Seems like people are recommending Clyde Wraps also. No harm in getting a price from them too. Have any recommendations on any other work to do while I'm doing the t-stat? And/or the water pump? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted February 13, 2014 I'm currently looking at getting new alloys. Need three new tires so thought might as well get new alloys now instead of forking out for new tires that I won't use much. Really like the ISS FM10's but no way can afford them. Looking at close to £1000 a corner. [ATTACH]77591[/ATTACH] Was looking at 18 inch cades Tyrus black with wider rear. [ATTACH]77592[/ATTACH] As much more affordable but not a clue if they make reliable alloys. Any ideas? Front are 8x18 and rear 9x18. ET35. Think I would need spacers and/or flare arches? 5x100 as going on vr6. Can anyone think of a better option? I really love BBS CH-R design. Want them but deep dish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted February 13, 2014 Some may disagree but 18 is too big for a Corrado.. 17s for the look and 16 for quality ride is generally the way ahead... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted February 13, 2014 Agreed - 18's are just too big on the Corrado. You'll have problems with rubbing, it'll handle like crap, and ride will be backbreaking! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted February 13, 2014 Ta for the advice guys. Guess I'll start searching for 16s and 17s then. Really like the wider rear look. Can you think of any nice 16s or 17s that are deep dish. Something similar to fm10s? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted March 1, 2014 Small update and looking for a bit of advice. So far I have replaced the thermostat, fan switch, water pump (all to solve a coolant issue which is now all good thankfully), upgrade light looms, change a few bulbs to LED which i think I might change back because the LED's just arent bright enough, fitted a new head unit which I really like (has an inbuilt phone stand that retracts to have a clean dash look), purchased RS style intakes to replace the front fog lights but have issues trying to fit them, debadged grill, TT wiper arms and aero blades (amazing the difference, can actually see when driving in the rain now), new blue convex heated mirror glass that still need to fit, mk4 handbrake upgrade, new breather valve as the old one was held together with bathroom sealant (didnt work at all) and audi mk1 pedal covers. I am going to replace the sump next week as i have an oil leak and looks like its coming from the sump. The sump was very corroded when i bought it. The advice I'm looking for is what would you recommended to do while replace the sump? And also does anyone have a step by step of installing the RS style intakes on a late VR6. Thought it would be very simple but seems like I might have to remove the bumper, or am i totally missing something. Hoping to get her in the paint shop late March so will put up a few photos of her then. Thanks in advance for any advice that you all can offer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted March 1, 2014 There aren't really any bits that come off while the sump is off.. USe the opportunity to do a service, oil will be coming out anyway so good time to do the filter. Also advise getting underneath and having a look at the bottom end of the engine.. Inspect what is in the sump, if its just oil and nothing metallic then you are laughing.. Id recommend a new gasket and bolts at the same time and ensure to torque up correctly… Interested to see the blue mirror glass when you get them fitted... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted March 1, 2014 Ta Goldie. Want to get everything running sweet and all parts fitted prior to painting so hopefully get the glass in this week. Will pop up a photo when I do. Depends on the weather though as all work is done street side in the west end. The amount of ppl stopping to admire/offer cash for the car is unreal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted March 1, 2014 Not a lot else you can do whilst the sump is off. As said, just change the gasket, and its worth inspecting and cleaning the oil pump pickup gauze if there is anything there that shouldn't be. Be careful you don't cross thread the three sump bolts located inside the gearbox bellhousing. Use a ball ended allen key if you're struggling. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted March 4, 2014 Stupid question but from reading so much am kind of confused. My radio does not turn off when the keys are removed from ignition. I have to turn on and off manual each time. Kind of annoying me. The ignition is a bit fiddle so am going to replace it. My thinking is that it is broken and thinks a key is always in it. If I only change the ignition switch, I can keep the same barrel and same key? Is this likely to solve the problem or would I need to change the barrel and thus key also? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted March 5, 2014 Ignition switch connects to the bottom of the barrel so no new key or barrel are required. Sounds like you radio is connected to the permanent live feed rather than the switched. Have a look in the ice and secure section for wiring info. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted March 5, 2014 Will pop the radio out and have a look at the wiring. Ta for all the help Sean. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted March 18, 2014 Just got delivery of a BMC CDA that i bought off ebay. Was really cheap so had to take the risk. Supposedly been barely used but by the looks of things, that wasn't true. Gonna get a cleaning kit and spruce it up but all looks good so far. Good few there going cheap, just need to look hard. Also one on gumtree in Edinburgh going for £50 but the guy doesn't have a clue how to measure it even after I explained a couple of times so would go view it if your local. Sounds like the right size though. Anyway, the only thing missing is a silcone pipe to join the CDA unit to the MAF. Just wondering what exact size I need. Believe it is a diameter of 80mm or is a 76mm. Also have no idea what length (for the silicone to join to the MAF that is)? Would 76mm be long enough? It arrived with a load of pipe (silicone and steel) with an MAF, but just going to keep what is on the car already or do you think I should change to the other piping. Any pros over the standard flex piping? All I can think of is less turbulance going into the engine, but does that really make a massive difference? Also fitting RS style air intakes so was thinking about using one or both of them as the cold inlet to the CDA. Think this would be worth while or a waste of time? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted April 2, 2014 Just in case anyone else comes across this, for the BMC CDA I got a 80mm diameter and 76mm length silicone pipe. Works perfect. Also got a bracket from dave16v which is amazing. Shiniest item on the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted April 2, 2014 Dave is the purveyor of shiny bit's and precision made at that :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted April 9, 2014 Today cleaned the maf and isv as i had the hard to start and stalling when breaking issue. Stalling when breaking caused a good few close calls, especially at roundabouts. Took it for a 45min drive after refitting the maf and isv. Only stalled once and wasn't as hard to start. Not sure what the next step to solve this issue would be. Going to take it for another long drive tomo morning before work to see if its all good, but stalling once has made me think that everything is not well. Any ideas? Any pointers would be most appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted April 10, 2014 If cleaning has much improved it, stick the isv in carb cleaner overnight to give it a proper good soak. Other than that, check all vac hoses, and check the inlet air pipe isn't split anywhere. If you have a search, there are tons of threads with the same issues, could be lots of things but worth checking the free/cheap stuff first. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted May 4, 2014 Going to clean up my throttle body during the week to see if that helps fixing this stalling issue. Want to replace the flame guard and gasket for the throttle body but can't find them anywhere. Does anyone happen to know part numbers/where I can get them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinbowe2000 10 Posted May 13, 2014 I was playing with the engine today, cleaning a few connectors etc to try learn a bit more about how it all works. Came across two strange things though. Can anyone help? (cant figure out why my photos wont upload to the forum so made a pdf and put it here) https://drive.google.com/#folders/0B39eWULYmoXQUGczMTJBaFMxdW8 Thanks for any advice you might be able to offer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
