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Shrick 268 camshafts

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Just met a chap for a downpipe for my vr6 and he does a bit breaking and has just offered me some shrick 268 camshafts for my vr.

 

I know everyone talks 263's on here but I can have them at a very good price and fit them myself then get a stealth map which will work out a lot of ££ saved rather than going to stealth for the whole job!

 

So what sort of power do the 268's make? and do they have a peaky delivery?

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A mates just informed me if I fit the 268's I have to take the head off as I need new valve springs?!

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268s are higher lift than 263s, so without uprated springs you may get valve float if you rev it too hard.

 

No need to take the head off if you don't want to. If you smash the ceramic insulator on an old spark plug, then weld the threaded portion to a compressed-air fitting, you can use air pressure to hold the valve up against the head while you remove the springs and retainer. Then again, if you're going that far you may as well take the opportunity to replace the stem seals and regrind the valve seats.

 

Stone

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I would stick with stock springs and a max rev limit of 7200rpm and you'll be fine. Schrick recommend their own uprated springs (oddly enough) but in my experience they do nothing but increase valvegear load. It's only if you want to go up to 7500rpm that valve bounce becomes a problem, but hydraulic lifters don't like that rpm anyway! Save your cash :)

 

I had Schrick 268s and the only thing worth mentioning is the hot idle can get a bit lumpy. Torque is about the same as stock below 4000rpm but the top end is great, feels like a 2.9 litre valver! Best used with a VGI imo + remap. Should bag you a tidy 220hp and a fat power band.

 

Everyone loves the 263s because they were bloody cheap, don't touch the idle quality or the bottom end torque :)

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Great info chaps, my good friend has a mk1 golf vr6 which is one of his many projects, he also says that fitting a steel mk4 head gasket yields 5hp on its own, never heard that one?

 

So if I fit them myself and then take it to stealth for a remap I should be fine. Would love to get my top end back as I have a very linear power curve looking at a dyno sheet for the car, it does have loads of low down grunt compared to a standard vr but I definatly do miss the top end

 

Here's the last dyno I had for the car

image_zps6c3b922b.jpg

image_zpsaff28cbd.jpg

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The MK4 gasket increases compression ratio slightly as it's thinner. Not sure that would yield more power on it's own though.

 

Yep, stick the cams in and then roll it on up (or down, east, or west!) to stealth for a map!

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Power curve is always linear since power (BHP) = torque (lbft) * RPM / 5250.

For me, the torque curve is the one you're interested in.

As others have said the main reason people went with the 263s was price, but they come very close to what the Schrick 268s can do at the top end and as an added bonus they pad out the torque curve right across the range, which the Schricks don't. The 268s are designed to be used with a Schrick inlet manifold however so when combined it's a pretty potent package. The manifold pads out the torque in the midrange and the cams take over for the 4000-7000 rpm sprint.

 

If, however, you're offered them cheap and you can fit them yourself.. well why the hell not? :)

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I never knew the 268's wer designed for use with the schrick manni , something to consider in the future , if you don't buy them message me on here mate I could be slightly interested if your gonna leave them

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They weren't specifically designed to be used with the Shrek. People (inc me) just found that the Shrek filled in the

 

Specific Cam & intake partnerships tend to have different profiles on certain cylinders, such as the North American MK4 12V for example, which had the R32 style variable intake.

 

The 268s are the same as the stock cams, but with more duration and lift.

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They weren't specifically designed to be used with the Shrek. People (inc me) just found that the Shrek filled in the

 

Specific Cam & intake partnerships tend to have different profiles on certain cylinders, such as the North American MK4 12V for example, which had the R32 style variable intake.

 

The 268s are the same as the stock cams, but with more duration and lift.

 

I'm starting to wonder if there is anything you don't have mass knowledge on lol did someone replace your brain with a computer chip kev ?

 

I like the way the schrick behaves tbh but on Vince's rollers it did dip at 4000 but it's not been mapped , when you mention the big three then what larger throttle is there or is it just a case of porting the standard throttle ? I thought the obd1 trottle body was thin walled so couldn't be worked much ? Either way some more info would be nice and sorry to fuk your thread up naff

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Haha, if I applied myself to other areas of my life like I have done messing with VWs, I'd be a rich man by now :lol: Nah, seriously, I just read things, play with things, break things and it all sticks in my head.

 

Yeah that 4000 dip is really hard to shift even with mapping. R32s do the same thing. We used to use a chap called [email protected] for our throttles. He basically took the stock throttle, bored it out a few mm and fitted a bigger plate to match. This is what a proper big throttle is. Not like those polished ones you see on ebay. OBD1 has enough meat in the body to do that, but OBD2 doesn't and you can't strip an OBD2 throttle anyway as the spindle is spot welded to the cable quadrant. Gits!!

 

It's all good info :D

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Haha I do feel I'd achieve more if I didn't have what I could do next to the car constantly stuck in my head

 

I'll look up some info on the throttle cheers for the info , I'm not massively bothered about the drop at 4000 as it's still a lot of fun on the B roads , never felt that "4000 rpm kick " people go on about though ! I'm not sure it exists tbh unless it's because I'm missing mapping deformed has more torque though low down

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It's not so much of a 'kick' (I think VTEC has kind of over egged that pudding), but more of a noticable surge to the redline compared to standard. Honestly mate, you're only getting half the picture at the moment. A stealth racing map will bring it all together!

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Yea i kinda always knew i was missing the full effect without a map but trying to hold out until cams and six branch are on and all while trying to save for the final drive to be done and the lightend fly and new clutch !! Dont know whats faster the car or the money falling out my bank account lol

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Definitely the money draining from your account :lol:

 

It will be a LOT faster than standard with all that done. Just the shorter gearing on it's own is a great mod. You should stick a Wavetrac in their whilst it's in bits.

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Hopefully , was really toying with turbo , spoke to a mate last weekend for an hour and talked my self in to that and then read more and more in to it then wimped out again , its an idea i love to think about and was seriously thinking of doing it but for now i think this is the way im going ,

 

Would love to stick a diff in but not for 800 bones

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Haha I do feel I'd achieve more if I didn't have what I could do next to the car constantly stuck in my head

 

I'll look up some info on the throttle cheers for the info , I'm not massively bothered about the drop at 4000 as it's still a lot of fun on the B roads , never felt that "4000 rpm kick " people go on about though ! I'm not sure it exists tbh unless it's because I'm missing mapping deformed has more torque though low down

I'll show you Matt when I get mine sorted and back together :eek:

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Mine will be a fast road monster by the time your back on the road clumps im nearly there haha your still taking things apart :))

Ah well I'll just take Vag and Fuzzy on a blast then :roll:

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Haha i never said i wouldnt hop in , vag n fuzz will have to be quik to get front seat or they will be sat on my knee haha

It's just they asked first mate and I'm a man of my word ;)

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