RPM Sensor Fault?

[bigchagg 0]

Ok I have managed to sort out another maf sensor and now this error is not coming up touch wood, however my car is still cutting out while driving.

 

The error coming up is saying a Rpm sensor fault? I have booked the car in with awesome for Monday however I'm dreading to see how serious this is and how much it's going to cost.

 

Is the rpm sensor a common fault and is it a simple job to resolve?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

The engine speed sensor fault always comes up when the engine is off. It should clear when the engine is running. It's a quirck of these engines.

 

If it doesn't clear, a new sensor isn't hugely expensive from a decent motor factor. Cutting out while driving and difficult to start are symptoms of this sensor being bad.

[bigchagg 0]

The engine speed sensor fault always comes up when the engine is off. It should clear when the engine is running. It's a quirck of these engines.

 

If it doesn't clear, a new sensor isn't hugely expensive from a decent motor factor. Cutting out while driving and difficult to start are symptoms of this sensor being bad.

 

Ok the car starts fine but just seems to cut out randomly while driving at relatively low speeds? Are these sensors simple to change ?

 

Also is engine speed sensor the same as rpm sensor?

Edited June 25, 2014 by bigchagg

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

They are only held in by 1 screw but it is on the front of the block below the oil cooler so access is poor. I personally find it easier to jack the car up and put it on stands then go in from underneath.

 

Normally the sensor itself is OK, it's the wiring that fails as it's in a pretty hostile place. Best to put a complete new assembly in and have done with it.

 

Have a search for crank sensor vr6 on Google and see what pictures come up to help.

 

Just dying as if you switched the ignition off is a clear symptom of a duff sensor. Other thing that can cause this are bad ecu (number 30) or fuel relays (number 67 or 167)

[bigchagg 0]

Yeah just dying as if iv turned the key off.

 

I will look into this some more. Cheers

[seanl82 23]

Generally (although not always) only happens when up to temp. As Sean (Jaymo) says, the wire is at a right angle, and the insulation tends to break down right there. It's held in by a single M6 (I think) hex bolt. Access is the hard part, changing is simples.

[bigchagg 0]

Generally (although not always) only happens when up to temp. As Sean (Jaymo) says, the wire is at a right angle, and the insulation tends to break down right there. It's held in by a single M6 (I think) hex bolt. Access is the hard part, changing is simples.

 

Yes this ties in with whats happening. After 2-3 mins when its up to temp.

 

So what is the actual part called that I need to search for? Crank sensor?

 

Does anyone what part number?

[bigchagg 0]

Can somone confirm if this is the right sensor for my above issues - rpm sensor?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-2-9-VR6-1991-TO-1995-CRANKSHAFT-PULSE-SENSOR-18791-/181216953525?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a315f44b5

[seanl82 23]

Yep, that's the Badger!

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

That's the puppy! From memory, the plug is attached to the dipstick guide on a bracket.

[bigchagg 0]

Ok just to throw a spanner in the works I took the car back to check the for the code and to make sure the car is switched on.

 

Here's the sequence of events:

 

1. Plugged I his computer with the ignition but not started and code p0201 rpm sensor no signal

2. Started the car and then he cleared the error, so it then showed no errors.

 

The car is still cutting out.

 

I've done search for the code p0201 and it says "P0201 Cylinder 1 - Injector Fault -N30" not sure what this means yet?

 

If this is right whats it got to do with the rpm sensor?

[Roger Blassberg 0]

The crank position sensor will ALWAYS come up when the engine is not running. This is normal. It is notoriously difficult to isolate the problem because once the engine cuts out the fault will show anyway. It needs a signal from the rotating crankshaft to activate the fuel pump and ignition circuits.

For the sake of £50, (ok, not to wasted on a whim, but this is actually a good price for a cps)I personally would change it.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Crank sensors won't always show a fault code if they cut very momentarily. I got a new crank sensor for £37 from my local motor factor.

[bigchagg 0]

Ok so the cutting out has defiantly got worse so iv left it a friend of myns garage to sort out.

 

Iv ordered the crank sensor part from euros because dealers say its obsolete. Costing £51. Will pick up and get it on in the morning now.

 

I'll report back on the results. Fingers crxd

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

If it's getting worse, my bets are definitely on the sensor as the wiring degrades further.

[bigchagg 0]

Ok new sensor is in and touch wood all seems ok. It did cut once but not in the same way as before all the lights came thias time however I think this was due to low fuel.

 

I dont think I can rely the petrol gauge when its gets to low level.

 

Will monitor now over the weekend.

[Jon_vr6 1]

Hope you've found the cause mate fingers crossed

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

When the gauge gets low, open the tank and have a look how much is actually in there. You can bend the float are to make it more accurate.

 

That's 2 faults from 2 that we've managed to fix cheaply first time! Hopefully you have no more faults.

Edited June 27, 2014 by Sean_Jaymo

[bigchagg 0]

When the gauge gets low, open the tank and have a look how much is actually in there. You can bend the float are to make it more accurate.

 

That's 2 faults from 2 that we've managed to fix cheaply first time! Hopefully you have no more faults.

 

2 out of two so far yes.

 

How do you open up the tank? Under the rear seat the black round circle, is it jus a matter of unscrewing?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

That's it. Can be very tight.