teveO 10 Posted September 8, 2014 hey all, i have changed the thermostat this morning bled the coolant system and its still rising over 110 degrees? the bottom radiator pipe takes forever to get warm, the fan does kick in but only when it is very hot (oil on dash temp 96 degrees) Coolant temp 113ish? im just wondering if anyone else has had this problem? maby can point me in the right direction? cheers in advance.:scratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rustynuts 0 Posted September 8, 2014 Check the temp sensor is not goosed. I had a similar thing with high oil temps, until I changed the temp sender and instantly lost 10-12 degrees off my running temps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted September 9, 2014 cheers for the reply, which its the temp sender for the dash? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sankysvr6 0 Posted September 9, 2014 The black is one for the dash, and the blue is for the ECU. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted September 9, 2014 I have checked all sensors and everything seems good, i have changed blue and black temp sensors, its still over heating. if istart it up and leave it idle it will raise to 115 degrees and the temp light starts to flash, top radiator hose is boiling to hot to touch, but the bottom of the radiator and the bottom hose is still cold? would it be ok to remove the thermostat? because i think its not letting the coolant circulate correctly? cheers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt@OCD 0 Posted September 11, 2014 Not got an air block? Yeah can test it with it out for sure. What make stat was it? Possible you've just got a dodgy one brand new? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted September 11, 2014 water pump? I know some of the old vr6 ones have had plastic fins/impellars which can become brittle and break off.. not sure with a g60 though, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted September 12, 2014 I have removed the thermostat and run it without it both pipes are getting warm, but it's still getting to 110+ on the dash, I have bridged the wires over on the radiator switch to see if the fan works, all is ok low speed and high speed. So maby I now have a thermo sensor problem? I will try a sensor today and try again, cheers for the reply guys! :scratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted September 12, 2014 ok so i have changed the thermo sensor, ran up and still going to 110 before the fan kicks in. while i was doing this i felt the temp in the header tank and it was cold? i have removed the small pipe going to it and there is hardly any flow through it? there is water there and the pipe was getting warm but surely it should be flowing? this has confused me as every other pipe is warm including the heater matrix pipes? and one have any clue? please its driving me up the wall.:bonk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sankysvr6 0 Posted September 12, 2014 Do you have heat from the heater, when its getting up to temp? Are the radiator fans kicking in at speed 1 when it gets above 90C? and then to speed 2 when it gets higher? Do the fans stay running when you switch the car off? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sankysvr6 0 Posted September 12, 2014 You might find some info in here as well. http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10288 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted September 12, 2014 i have removed the small pipe going to it and there is hardly any flow through it? there is water there and the pipe was getting warm but surely it should be flowing? and one have any clue? please its driving me up the wall.:bonk: again from a vr6 aspect that small pipe on top of the header tank does have a nice steady flow of coolant returning back to the tank on idle, that would indicate the water pump is working well, try raising the revs via the throttle body to see if any coolant starts flowing back to the tank at a decent rate, faster the revs the better the flow should be, assuming this smaller pipe does the same function as vr6 one, which I would of thought it would be Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted September 13, 2014 yea getting heat through the blowers. both pipes going to the heater matrix is warm but the header tank staying cold. the fan kicks in slow speed and hot speed and sometimes when the car is turned off. (cool down.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rustynuts 0 Posted September 17, 2014 So it is getting hot on the needle in the car, but it is not overheating and boiling over? If that is the case I would say that the gauge in the car is reading slightly out. I seem to remember a G60 I had would go up to 110 in traffic. The one in my Mk2 never gets to half, even when sat in traffic. If you are really worried you can get an 80 degree C thermoswitch which is what I am running now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted September 28, 2014 hey guys after many hours of messing around i have decided to bite the bullet and change the water pump, as there seems to be no circulation going to the header tank? just a quick question, does the water pump run off of the timing belt as well as its own pulley? bit confused i have got to this stage and am wondering if i could save alot of time by not taking the timing belt/ pulley off? cheers steve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fitzy121 10 Posted September 28, 2014 You dont have to take the timing belt off on a G60 although you do have to remove the supercharger and its mounting bracket to get to the water pump . It is mounted between the charger bracket and the block . [ATTACH=CONFIG]79841[/ATTACH] :bonk: ignore that fact i have the timing belt off in this pic i was changing the crank seal , it gives you and idea how the water pump is mounted . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted September 28, 2014 thanks very much! i have got to the stage of removing the water pump but it looked like it was run on the top of the pump as well as the bottom, you have saved me loads of time as i was about to strip all of it down doh!! thanks again! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted October 25, 2014 Bit of a dilemma? i've removed the water pump and stripped it down everything seems to be working as it should do the blades are in good condition and it is not spinning on the shaft? i have poured water through every pipe and checked the flow all seems to be ok? This has got me thinking, is the black temp sensor faulty and reading to high? (it is aftermarket). Even if the sensor is faulty i am still not getting a flow of water through the small pipe going to the header tank? Please, please someone point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fitzy121 10 Posted October 25, 2014 I have checked all sensors and everything seems good, i have changed blue and black temp sensors, its still over heating. if istart it up and leave it idle it will raise to 115 degrees and the temp light starts to flash, top radiator hose is boiling to hot to touch, but the bottom of the radiator and the bottom hose is still cold? would it be ok to remove the thermostat? because i think its not letting the coolant circulate correctly? cheers! I would be checking the radiator is not blocked at this point . if you have changed/checked the sensors ,thermostat and pump . From cold when you start it up how long does it take till it starts over heating at idle . You state that the expansion tank hose is very hot to touch but with no water in it . What about the other pipes . Is it pressurising ( pipes hard to squeeze ) . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teveO 10 Posted October 25, 2014 i have checked that the radiator isn't blocked i can blow through it freely, i have changed both blue and black sensor, also changed the thermo switch in the rad. from cold i would say it takes 8-10 min to go up to 110c. the small pipe going to the header tank is getting warm but there is no flow through it to the tank? it is pressurising, the top pipe gets hard to squeeze also all other pipes are warm except the pipe coming from the header tank as there is no circulation thanks for the reply! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gti_Jamo 10 Posted October 26, 2014 I'd still be going with the water pump. Better off changing it while it's off anyway. Definately flow related. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites